wohzah

If you want those parts to glide apply a coat of butchers wax on the metal (or two or four or seven) and buff it (by hand or machine) a long, long time. I hate to be over promoting the stuff but it is really useful stuff.

my friend you are a lucky, lucky man. It is also cool to build things and see them go from tree to finished project.

I said cut the minwax because the build up of the poly might help to dampen especially with the turpentine helping to bring the finish into the wood. I am not much of a fan of minwax for anything more than knife grips and small projects or with bocote (matches it very, I don't know why), because of its tendency to yellow. But in this instance I thought the build up would hurt your sound. Again my knowledge of acoustic guitars is very limited but I know a good bit about finishing.

thanks, all of you guys. I did draw it out to scale as jmrentis said but I wasnt really able to get an idea of the proportion until after, I would have used a different neckscale. But hey there is always next time? (I think I will put up some sketches of my next idea soon for people to critique)

I have to agree with Geo that is a really cool body shape, great choice!

Did not come out as well as I wanted, my design was original and in retrospect it looks a little misproportional. I still have some problems with the wiring (thats why only one string). The body is solid walnut (air dried) The fretboard is lacewood Two of the inlays (on fret 12) are old 22 shells saw the idea on this sight, I can't take credit for the idea The pickups are twin non-brandname humbuckers Stained with waterlox and finished with clear butchers wax. The less than exceptional outcome of my first build has taught me alot, both in what I just did not do due to lack of knowledge and what I did wrong. Ideas are stewing for my next build, I am thinking something similar to a PRS se custom semi-hollow, but I will make it original. As a footnote my guitar is not a lefty but I use a computer mounted camera, so it has a mirror effect.

I don't have too much on acoustic guitars but I do know a fair bit about oil finishes. My toss up for the most sound efficient would be a very lightly apply 4 coats of 1 part mineral oil and one part turpentine. I think the above mixture is ok, but if I were you I would cut the Minwax and just use the linseed and turpentine, but again I am no expert.

My bet would be paint it with a brush, get the right blue and fill in a metallic, then you can tailor the color to your liking. Or if you can find the right color spray it with a blue metallic then use a nitro finish. IMO

I am going to get a multimeter and do some tests to see if I can pinpoint the problem, thanks. I think it may just be a cold solder or something minor.

Hmm, you could try ordering one from jackson as a replacement? Or a quick froogle search. Didn't mean to sound rude sorry.

I just finished wiring a build. I have loud hum and then when I touch the strings the hum changes pitch, but if I pluck a string I get no sound? I can't seem to find the problem. My diagram I am using two humbucker pickups, but they wire like single coils they only have two wires leading out of them. Any suggestions of what the problem might be would be great. Thanks

Ebay

Yeah welcome, I am pretty new to the site (I think three months or so). Great information here and really nice members.

I was thinking how much hand work goes into the asian guitars and lower end models? My chief example being the cost of a squier or asain fender versus an american one. Is it just he cost of labor, are the asian models being built by workers being paid less or is there more machines doing the work?

I would vote for the razor blade technique you described.

Apply the oil then wax it, offers decent protection same color. I use butchers clear bowling alley wax. My favorite stain/finish, oil then wax. And if u scratch the wax it is wicked easy to touch up. Apply with steel wool contradictory to instructions.

Danish oil creates a great natural look, personally I love oil finishes, but I doubt it would cover the plastic (I am almost sure) . My recommendation would to use a shellac or a poly finish such as butchers wax over the danish oil. I like to steer away from poly but it will work over the plastic.

For spray your best option is going to a local hardware store and buying a satin black poly shake can, simmilar to that of a spray paint can. For a non spray satin finish, I recommend clear butchers wax (used on boling alleys), although this finish can be buffed to a high gloss under a normal amount of buffing it gives a very nice satin finish. Also keep in mind poly is very hard to repair as you have to take all of it off to repair a scratch (it does not scratch easily), and most poly yellows over time. Also make sure when you buy the spray black paint it is satin as well, or it will gloss up. My recommendation is to use butchers wax. note when I say poly I mean polyurethane, which is bascially varthane, or most epoxy finishs. (which are poly urethane based) For the finish above you may want to use semi gloss poly and then kill a little of the gloss with 0000 steel wool, as the finish above is not comletely satin but rather something of a semigloss. (this as well could be acheived with a well buffed butchers wxax finish.

The guy who told me this used it as a suggestion, I have yet to try it, not wanting to foul up an expensive and or well thougt out project. I may throw it into a cigar box guitar or something. I agree it would have to be very exact and people have little trouble with truss rods. Also it would have to be a non adjustable truss rod, which are few and far between in modern guitar building.

Elmers also makes a yellow glue I apologize I should have been more specific although what I said does apply to any brand of white or yellow glue. (IMO)

Elmers white glue is fine. You don't need the yellow wood glue it just drys faster. And it is nice because you get about 15 minutes to set the wood perfectly.

I don't think it would have a substantial effect if the guitar was finished well and if the truss rod was not too far off center. If it was really off center I am not even sure that much would happen. Having talked to a very experienced woodworker (does not build guitars) his opion was that the least warping and twisting would happen if the truss rod were diagonal across the fretboard.

Your bow is probably due to moisture, you probably bought the wood and it was shipped and since we are just exiciting cold winter months the moisture percentage dropped very quickly and warped the wood. The best way (I would think) to correct this is to steam the wood in a steam box httpdirections for steam box and then clamping or weighting the wood to something flat. Also maksure that wood has already been properly dried (ie kiln dried or sufficient air drying time). If you do need to dry it still, make sure it is flat. A quick google search will find you everything you will need to know about drying wood (or a trip to the library.

Basswood is cheap and so is poplar. Also look on ebay for some good prices. I would not use pine it splits very easily and produces very bound sounds. Basswood is very easy to work with as well. Just remeber you have to paint poplar it has a very poor natural grain and color (but its sound is fine)

Hey buddy I don't want to start a nationality flaming, but lay off our flag alright, we take a lot fo pride in where we come from. btw the inlay looks great cSuttle