joshvegas

forget no.4 and no.5 what you want is pre war no. 7! you still find them cheap at carboot sales and they rock

ditto with ash!

That's some pretty heavy duty photoshopping you did there! funnily enough I came to that very conclusion myself! cut is made now she is curvier than dawn french the day after easter!

My comment about the basses wasn't meant to be negative in many ways they were the most impressive builds in terms of making something that huge playable and attractive and i can't get my head around how you guys do it! if i didn't have the worlds smallest hands i'd love to play either of them! I just really liked daintree.

thanks alot! yeah you're right about the one pickup but i will drill a hole through the neck cavity incase i decide to modify! I know what you meant about the headstock however i have decided on a small arrow head type design due to the fact that i hacked a lump off the neck blank a few years ago and i don't have enough left for anything fancy i think it will still look pretty good though becasue the body has a sort of fast look to it if you know what i mean

I wasn't very clear on that bit was I? sorry i didn't think about the drill direction i meant only to describe the route of the hole my bad!

I never thought of the neck being oiled! Get the project done and you'l have the worlds first five string violin

why does no one like tele headstocks? I think they look great and amazingly well designed in terms of waste production! But in general i do think each guitar suits a different style headstock.

I liked them all. I can't get my head around basses with more then 4 strings though! Daintree did it for me bit of a gretschy/ricky thing going on in the horns?

I have a couple of violins 100+ years at home the neck is supposed to be finishless definately don't refinish it or the body. the wood is maple or sycamore (probably maple I think sycamore is found on more expensive instruments) fixing the crack is described in dan erlewins book i think it involves good quality masking tape stretched across the crack after some runny clue is rubbed into the crack but i'm not near the book. don't forget to buy a bridge for it or you might be dissapointed with the finished product!

Thanks guys I know what you mean about the waist I'm not sure, it's already really narrow waisted and to be honest the photo makes it look squater than it actually is (i think it could be an optical effect from the black scratch plate being empty i think i'll leave it just now until it's got a neck ready to be fitted and see if that brings the proportion into line (explorers are very off centre looking at the waist aswell). At te moment it is very very comfy plying sitting down! and yes it'll be finished natural in some way yet to be decided. do you mean the treble cuttaway or the bass cut away? because the bass cutaway isn't finished yet it will look more like the treble cutaway the neck /body join area is also not finished which i think is throwing the shape off a bit! I am not disagreeing with what you guys are saying But i think i'll check what it looks like with a neck on before i do anything rash! on the subject of the neck I have a few headstock ideas but any suggestions are very welcome but it has to be 3 and 3 and small because its gonna be pretty unbalanced as it is! Oh and it will be faced front and back with ash because i really dont like stripes running through headstocks for some reason!

It's finally happened! I moved my workbench, I found my camera and I found my camera charger and it's a holiday so i got some stuff done! For those of you that haven't read my introduction a brief history lesson. I began this project about six years ago, gave up and chucked it under the bed these are the pieces that survived that traumatic banishment Ash [favourite wood] body parts (was two pieces screwed up the routing cut out the centre hand cut the new pickup cavity got bored left it for six years) http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj242/j...ct/CIMG5138.jpg The neck (rippled sycamore [second favourite] + rosewood, not a fan and won't use it again anything i buy now will be sourced from britain gootta keep the old carbon footprint down!) http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj242/j...ct/CIMG5141.jpg my power tools 1xBandsaw 1xJointer (i row to keep my strength up for epic cutting marathons) http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj242/j...ct/CIMG5156.jpg Okay now to recent progress. I could have sworn when I glued the body together that the facews were perfectly flat... http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj242/j...ct/CIMG5153.jpg Ever get the rage? http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj242/j...ct/CIMG5158.jpg and here is the main event! the body as of this evening parts added to indicate finished look anything on the wood is black anything on the black is chrome pickgaurd was not cut the wrong way round i want it a very dull if any sheen and i think it looks better working from the rough side than the gloss side also the shape isn't finished yet it still needs tweeking. A tip for everyone don't seperate glued body parts after drinking copiously its bloody stupid and could damage the guitar burn marks will be removed!

I don't get what you mean about the nail but the ground has to come into contact with the strings in some way so you need to ground to a metal guitar part which touches the strings. And it depends on the type of bridge you have. A strat style trem you normally solder the wire to the spring claw in the back of the guitar. A fender style hardtail you drill a hole from the surface of the guitar to the control cavity or i guess the pickup cavity whatever is easier. just the bare wire in contact with the bridge base is enough A tun-o-matic or anything mounted on posts drill a hole from the cavity to the the hole the insert goesinto leave the wire exposed at the end and push in the insert so the wire is caught between the insert and the body. I don't think i've missed anything but someone will point it out if i have.

pictures are there at the very end of the post

I wanted to serperate it because cutting the join then rejointing it uses more wood. once i realised i'd been a tool i seperated the glue with the iron and got the trusty stanley number 7 it's regluing as we write!

There is nothing better than mini cab radio chatter halfway through blazing solo! okay i'm no expert but i'd try these things. hissing.. sounds like to much gain! are you running a compressor and an overdrive /distortion pedal if you are take the compressor off when using the overdrive (distortion acts exactly the same as compression) radio.. How long is your guitar lead (and patch cables)? really long (or cheap) leads pickup radio frequencies more than short ones then when you apply lot's of gain you hear them through your amp. (this might also reduce your hissingness or are your guitars sheilded well? like geo i'm guessing aswell but it could be these. but my biggest tip is simplfy your rig and use as much amp rather than overdrive as you can it always sounds better. unplug all your pedals and slowly add them in order of importance when you have a good sound add the next pedal. It may not sort the problem but at the very least it'll find it!

I'd switched the iron off to answer the phone and forgot to put it backl on!

I'd still do it that way but with the new photo i hate trying to get curves right in autocad! it kind of reminds me of a yamaha sg with an extended horn.

I need to unglue a wing on a three piece ash body as the one end hasn't glued properly for about an inch structurally it's not that important but its annoying cosmetically. I want to seperate and reglue and so i tried the iron trick but the wood seems to be acting as a heat sink. would the oven work on a low heat or even heated up then turned off? wrapped in tinfoil with some water to steam it or possible not i could just fill it but it's gonna be natural and it will show up particularly on the end grain

thats a pretty square on photo you can import it into autocad and use the polyline tool to draw around it and if they are standard humbucker you can even scale it properly. I love these guitars but i think you should make a nicer headstock! welcome by the way

It wouldn't be as bad as the moderne though would it? because it would be a tiny angle and would be better than trees because they work in the wrong plane I'm off to go and check my headstock design just to make sure that it is not going to foul. to be fair it never did make it onto the guitar first time round did it? how many of the reissues were baught by players?

you need to make more pieces than three aslong as you have an even number you can have a symetric pattern into four would work for example bookmatch it bookmatch the halfs put one set inside the other. what sort of wood is it? edited: what i wrote before was total nonsense

I think Black labb means you could bypass the combos amp and just use it as a cab. as long as the impedence matches.

+1 for the chilli dog. Th plastic cage thing is a pain i put some rubber tubing ,from home brewing, over the knobs to make them a bit longer so they poke out of the cage top an thats flexible enough to not break the knobs when stamped pretty hard.

That's what i was thinking could not have described it in so few words though!