Kevan

You'll get an email and/or PM notifying you of the warning. The Warn Status Bar on the left side of the page next to your name will also go up. We'll try to use this as an alternative to suspensions.

Let's not find out, ok?

Nothing is "leaning". Everything is (supposed to be) hanging straight down. There are only two points of contact, and those are on either side of the bottom of the headstock. Nothing else is touching the guitar. Even with the internet at my disposal, I still haven't found a way to get a guitar to go flat by hanging it.

Be careful when re-drilling the spring holes. Not all of them are 90 degrees- some go in at an angle.

Not many folks realize this, but Ibanez has been around longer than Fender, EB/MM and PRS combined. Ibanez has some major history, almost 100 years worth. After more than 10 years of research, picture gathering, and transcribing anecdotes, the first book about Ibanez- from Ibanez- is now available! You can pick up your copy here: http://www.ibanez.com/news/untold_story.asp (Don't bother checking Amazon or Barnes & Noble; it's only available through Ibanez) These books debuted at the most recent NAMM show, and are now being made available to the public. $39.95 for a sweet, all-glossy, TONS OF PICS, coffee table book. This is the one Ibanez fans have been waiting for. Why am I posting about it? Well, since Jemfest is mentioned in the book, the authors will be getting us an autographed copy to raffle off at Jemfest 2005 in Orlando. That's right- all three guys are gonna sign it! How cool is that? Feel free to post your thoughts on the book once you've read it. Oh yeah, and if you guys find typos in the book, please post them here. I'll get them sent to Ibanez so they can make the necessary corrections. They already know about "Neutrik". LOL P.S.- For those wondering, Yes- the EGYPT is in the book.

nice work, getting right on the post count there. i might have been post whoring if it hadn't got removed so quickly ← And this gives me a perfect chance to try out the new Warn function. Thanks for the opportunity.

Nice work, Aid! (I can see your origin though...heh heh) That's a great example of how easy SW is. The wood textures aren't super-detailed, but you can get a general idea, and can label them if need be. If I'm not mistaken, you can also import your own textures. Spy- thanks for the info. I think I'll just stick with 2004 for a while. It's perfect for my needs. Sorry guys, but I didn't have time to get to that neck this weekend. I'll find some time soon and time how long it takes me for each section (neck, headstock, fretboard, frets, etc).

Or maybe just a few minutes. :-) Let me know if the FastReply email notification box is unchecked by default for you guys now. Thanks.

Hey folks....I got the info I needed from Bri, and I'll change the default in FastReply to "unchecked". Give me a few hours to get the code in.

You're in "metric heaven", and none of those guys had a 9x1.0? Disappointing. I have a set that looks exactly like this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=31795 It's a little pricey to get just one tap, but then again, you'd be the only guy in town with a 9x1.0 tap and die. You might also check FleaBay. Single taps will be expensive, so a nice complete set might be the way to go.

Scott- If I'm looking in the right area, that setting has been turned off (default). If you get this in your email, send me an email and I'll dig deeper. Thanks.

Spy- you've got SW2005 already? You lucky dog! Does it have a whole bunch of upgrades over 2004, or should I just hang out for the revisions in 2006? Jer- That neck would have been MUCH easier in SW. Personally, I would have done the neck/fretboard first, then lofted the headstock, but that's just me. In SW, I would do the LP outline, extruded that to it's max thickness, and then cut away the carves in the top that I wanted. I'm not exactly sure what 'negative geometry' relates to, but in SW you can "cut air". And yes- you can freehand in SW. Oh, and there's the option for variable radius fillets as well (my machine shop guy calls me The Fillet King. LOL). If I get some time this weekend, I'll try to do a neck/fretboard in SW. Just for fun, I'll knurl the frets.

Well, I'd model a car much differently than I would a guitar. :-) In relation to TurboCAD vs. AutoCAD... Both have their strong and weak points- TurboCAD is inexpensive and quick to figure out, and great for someone taking the initial dive into CAD. You get to learn all the basics. It's cheap and easy, just like the girls I dated in college. LOL AutoCAD is *ok* for beginners (you can get overwhelmed quite easily), but it has more advanced features which let you design cooler stuff. It's also an industry standard, so if you work with it for a while, you can hop onto any AutoCAD machine and bust out the cool stuff (anywhere in the world). It's like the Swiss Army Knife of CAD software. It can pretty much do it all, and everyone knows what it is. :-)

Jer- I've not tried to do any carved tops in SW, but I'm pretty sure I could bust one out quickly. Personally, I'd do one big LP outline-shaped extrusion, then cut away the carved parts (and the pickup/neck/jack cavities, of course). Cutting/extruding in 3D is painless in SW- pick a point, select the shape/size, then cut or extrude. SW is incredibly easy. I previously worked with TurboCAD and AutoCAD, and I have to say that even though it's very pricey, for a goof like me who doesn't have an engineering degree, it's the perfect tool for CAD. If I had SolidCAM and a CNC machine, you guys would never hear from me again.

I'm not sure if Ibanez changed the dimensions/thread size & gauge of the trem arm holders over the years, but we'll soon find out. Keep us updated on the thread size you come up with. If there's new information, we'll get it to Brian so he can update the tutorial.

I run SolidWorks 2004 here. I've had it for a couple of years and absolutely love it. My degrees are NOT engineering based, but in SW, I can model up anything I imagine. My local machine shop also runs SolidWorks and SolidCAM, so revisions to my designs are email-quick. Yes- SolidWorks is VERY expensive (about $20K for the basic package), but for what I do, it's a great setup. There are a couple of other threads here about CAD/CAM. Here's a good one for ya: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=8469

I'm trying to remember the thread gauges off the top of my head (so I don't have to go disassemble a trem....sad, considering I love to take stuff apart. LOL). I think the thread gauges on these two parts are 9mm x 1.0: Arm Holder: http://www.ibanez.com/parts/2002_PARTS/el_...es/2LE2-13C.JPG Arm Holder Locknut: http://www.ibanez.com/parts/2002_PARTS/el_...ges/2LE2-14.JPG That would make the threads in the trem baseplate....9mm x 1.0. If someone has one apart, feel free to correct me. I'll double-check next time I have an Edge in pieces.

Ummm....10mm x 1.25 *is* a metric size. I can double-check, but I think that's the correct pitch as well. If it's not, you can choose 1.0 (coarse) or 1.5 (fine). That's it for 10mm tap pitch. Check the pitch on your original.

Hey Mojo. Jim is at the NAMM show until next week. He should be back in his shop on 1.24 or 1.25. You'll get a quicker response if you email him your questions directly. He checks here occasionally, but gets his email a few times a day. Way quicker. He's got pics of prior work that he can send you, but I'm sure some members here wouldn't mind sending over a few shots as well.

Meegs- Not a bad idea, but think about this: If you pose your question to someone on PM, you deny the rest of the forum the solution to your issue. Also, you only get ONE option to that issue. If you post the question, there are almost 3000 heads to come up with other ideas/solutions to what you posted. And, someone else might have the same issue, so to see their situation posted will help them as well (and keep multiple posting down), and get even more people involved. While this thread isn't the best example, I think we've done a pretty good job in the last few months about keeping things on topic and keeping the unncessary posts to a decent minimum. The Forum members/regulars/veterans have really helped with that (Thanks folks!). Yes- it's something we all need to work on, but so far, so good. I'm glad to hear the Project Guitar Forum has helped you in the past. Maybe in the future you'll consider posting the question instead of PM'ing it.

Just fix your signature to abide by the rules of the forum (max of 2 lines). No one is more eager than I am right now. I'm getting HAMMERED with emails. I can't imagine what it will be like a week from tomorrow. It is hard to decipher things in print. Sometimes it's better not to say/type anything at all. Meegs- his question was answered (a couple of times), in the first 4 posts. That's pretty quick in my book. And for the record, as long as I'm here, I promise to NEVER EVER let this place become like H.C.

Maybe you missed it in my first post, but before I mentioned the Tremol-No thread, I told NoMusicNoLife that the block wouldn't fit correctly in his RG project. I'm here to help guys out with the knowledge I have. Sorry if my invention happens to be an option regarding the advice I post. Shameless self-promotion? I'm missing it....completely...

REPAIRED (this was happening during the upgrade) Ditto that, but I just figured it was something to do with the upgrade. And sure enough, here I am. ← REPAIRED (this was happening during the upgrade) Icon images and smilies should all be back. If you see something specific missing, please let us know. Thanks. We'll check into the email reminders. The Forum was down for a few minutes while repairs were being made. This will probably happen a few more times as we update software code and get the servers rebooted. It'll only be for a few minutes at a time, so keep your panties smooth.

(bowser is of course referring to the Tremol-No and not the pre-fab'd wood block) The pre-fabricated wood chunk that you found is designed for Strat bodies. It will probably fit in an RG body, but you will have plenty of other sections to fill in order to attach a hardtail bridge properly and cleanly. Thanks for posting the tutorial, Jivin. I totally forgot about that one.

That block isn't cut to fit/fill an RG. You should probably check out this thread: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=4337