Kyle Cavanaugh

Hey, you could always give it a 24 fret neck and it will look more like you intended it, I wouldn't waste it, if I were you!

Hey, about what you said about the bridge being too low, it's not. The Gibson guitar's actually have their necks angle back to compensate for the height, while zero angle on the neck is necessary with that bridge.

I personally think the compact headstock looks cool, hopefully it's not so compact that not even mini tuners will fit on! That would suck!

I have a wide body myself, what can I say? I'm about 260 Lbs\120 KG, luckily a lot of that is muscle! Anyways, nobody said you couldn't mess with a design to make it your own! I still have more contouring to do guys, so don't be surprised if it does look a bit crude in places.

If noone catches it, check out my question. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...15entry152054

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v233/kor...itarbody001.jpg OK, you guys asked for an update. The whole thing is mapped out on the front and back, but I mad sure not to mark too dark because I don't want this to be heavily visible and this IS supposed to be a transparent finish. I figured out the neck by seeing where the end of the neck lines up and matches with the contour, traced it, and went from there. I took measurements for where to put the pups and the bridge from another guitar. How much more slack should I give this thing for the scale length? It's going to be 25 1/2." How's about 1/4"-1/2" inch or so when the saddles are pulling back their least sound? It's going to be medium-low action with 46-10's so I know I won't need a ton more. Sorry, but this is my first real bridge installation from scratch.

Oh, I see, it just kind of looks like you took a standard Fender neck plate and such...

Very nice work! Might I ask what that neck plate is for?

Wow! BTW, You only need F-spaced for the bridge, if that, unless you plan to have it like 2 inches at the nut, like a classical!

Looks awesome!

Oh, i dont think it was the triptofan I'm only 18 buddy, I don't touch that stuff, although my mom DID use white wine in these stuffed mushrooms she made!

Not tonight, maybe tommorow, the Triptophen from the turkey gave me a nasty hangover! It's looking good IMO, though!

Well, I went against everyone's advice about using the belt sander to reduce thickness. I mounted it in my vise upside down and had it rigged to be one when the surge protecter was. I went real slowly and carefully and it came out true and didn't make divots! The only real issue is you have to make sure it's a fine enough grit on the belt that it doesn't really scratch up the wood. I used 80 grit and it wasn't much trouble at all palm sanding it out. Good think I took the 40 grit off, now that would have been a b*tch! I also got the stuff from Stew-Mac and Schatten (there was a lot I already had) to help out with the project. I did map out the component placement and it all works out to look really cool. I need to buy some template routing bits and some extra bearings before I try making any routes. Luckily, both I and my dad have previous experience in this type of routing. (That breadbox taught me a lot! LOL) I wound a prototype coil with a bobbin made from some scrap wood and a doll rod to the same dimensions to what the 12 coils in my design will be. I was surprised at the clarity and linearity of it! I got about 5500 winds of #44 on it and it read out at 1.5K. I tested it with a ceramic magnet attached to a humbucker\P-90 adjustment screw through the middle. It also has a lot less noise than the average single coil, I think it's due to a lack of air pockets. Hopefully I can talk to one of my friends who takes the CAD class if he could use the CNC lathe to mass-produce me some bobbins out of plastic, as what I did required a lot more work and looked crude! LOL. I don't own a lathe or otherwise I'd turn my own out of some maple, I kind of have a lot of it right now. *cough* firewood *cough* As for the neck, I think I might give up on screwing with this poor thing, I was thinking of getting the neck Carvin sells because it's basically everything I want in a guitar neck. However, doesn't it seem like a little bit of overkill having a Maple neck, Ebony fretboard, and Carbon Fiber reinforcement? It sounds like it might be TOO stiff to be able to get any relief. That Does anyone have any experience with these necks? Oh yeah, how thick is the fretboard? It looks like a full 1/4" but I could be mistaken. From what I've heard, it's not a good idea to ask Customer Support... Really, though, when I look at the money I saved making so much of this myself, it's not a big deal wanting a second neck. Let's just say I might want to save this neck I got right now for a Steinberger copy... Damn faceplate! Don't worry, I know what router bit to use now.

How about the "Bat-O-Caster"?

Well, I give up, I'm just going to go ahead with it being as thick as it is, I think with the SS frets and Ebony fretboard, it will have plenty of treble, and the extra thickness will be good for the meat, kind of like a Les Paul if you guys know where I'm coming from. Trust me, I know what I'm doing, and I'll tell you it's getting plenty light for me with all the contours. I'll try and take some pics tomorrow. BTW, I screwed up the Ebony faceplate because I couldn't get the face of the headstock square enough. That and I wasn't thinking when I glued it up to clamp it properly. I'm currently working on removing it, I think I might just spray paint the face with black like a lot of companies do. That means I gotta take a trip to the auto parts store. Oh well, I got two guitars that need paint for their refinishing, anyways.

Oh boy. You'll want to understand how to read schematics, and have a schematic. However you don't need to have that, but you should know how and why the circuit works. Being able to solder and desolder circuit boards is a must. I know how to do all the stuff you're talking about, but not having the amp in front of me or having a schematic of it, I can't help you. In all honesty, don't ask me to help you either, I'd say the labor might outweigh the cost of an amp with those feature or getting stompboxes.

A resistor converts the electrical energy into heat energy and that heat dissipates therefore losing the energy. The easiest way to understand this is to think of any electrical device ("load") as a resistor, whether fixed or varying. You yourself will act like the "load" if you discharge the caps accidentally by going in and working on your amp without doing these proper steps first!

OK, well I talk to the Woods teacher today. He said he'd be willing to help me out, HOWEVER he said that the planer itself has some sort of problem where it chews the last couple of inches up. So, would puting some wood behind it while it's run through help prevent this? I'd be willing to get some cheap stuff like poplar and glue it to get the desire 2" thickness if this will help it any. I also have some 2" thick MDF that I don't really care if it's beaten up, but it's not very hard to work with so I doubt it's as likely to have this happen to it. Last case scenario: What if I made some sort of jigs that allows me to run the belt sander over the body like those huge things the pros use? Would I be more able to get a flat surface if I mounted the belt sander upside down in a vise and ran the body over top of it?

Nice work, I'm happy to see you're posting even the slight mistakes you've made. I've had those same problems, too, and it makes me feel more confident that I'm not the only imperfect one!

Good thinking on prototyping the electronics like that! I think I'll borrow your idea for my project, especially since it won't be the simplest circuit...

That's very impressive!

I can tell you from first hand experience that it's quicker, easier, and neater to do a PCB instead of perfboard. I worked with middle-aged to elderly women this summer stuffing PCB's... Of course, right now, I'm building a rather complex power supply (basically six in one) that I have no choice but to build on perfboard, because I had to design it from scratch as a project for my Electronics class. If I wasn't such a good solderer, that board would be looking like a nightmare! However, it still doesn't look anywhere near as neat as if I'd etched a PCB.

The wire is held in place by the pressure of the bridge being screwed down on top of it. No need to attempt soldering it to the bridge or anything, but if it's stranded wire, it might be a good idea to tin the end of the wire.

Damn, you're lucky!

Awesome! More people need to use Cherry for guitar wood! It does look more like Oak or Ash to me, though... My next guitar I plan to make out of Wild Cherry. BTW, the girl in your avatar doesn't look half bad either, LOL Might I ask where you got those comics for your Jackson? Hustler?