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eddiewarlock

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Everything posted by eddiewarlock

  1. thanks mate! i have worked with a lot of timbers, just not maple, and it's a bitch...
  2. ok, just came back from the wood shop. The guys over there let me use their clamps and the pieces are clamped now to the steel bench of the jointer they have. The piece was not that bad after it was unclamped, i just redid it because i wasn't satisfied with the joints that's all. Thanks a lot to Carl and Allan for answering
  3. i have unclamped the pieces. it's slighty curved and i don't like the glue lines i see... I don't get this. This has never EVER happened to me when working with other woods. Glue lines when i have perfect joints, wood movement... Re sawn, re joint and re glue
  4. it has 16 clamps...i almost run out of space when positioning them. The neck is clamped to a big chunk of sapelli, which acts as a caul. The glue wasn't dry yet, so i hope it's still good If not, of course i will resaw it and joint it back and reglue, but probably with epoxi. Damn i need my own wood shop...
  5. Ok...so i had the pieces cut in 3...i put them up opossing grain direction and all....but i forgot to glue them up clamped to a larger, straight piece of wood.... 2 hours later, i go to check it out...it's bended towards one side...I blame the water in titebond, so inmediatly i clamped it to the large piece of sapelli... Hope it straights back up---i don't like this I miss using epoxy damnit
  6. Looks great! I so want to build me a Korina guitar A king V oh yeahhh.
  7. Yeah, more laminating to do, that's what i thought i'd do. The grain is very straight, but like i said, shifts from quartersawn to riftsawn and i don't like that. Tomorrow i'll get the pieces and take pictures.
  8. i took the other planks i had left of maple to be cut. They have a straighter grain that this (these) pieces, but they are not entirely quartesawn. They shift from quartersawn to riftsawn. Any advice regarding this? do that make those pieces more prone to twisting?
  9. I did both. First i stained the whole guitar dark blue, then sanded back, and did a mix of turquoise and blue dies, sprayed the whole guitar with it, and then, i mixed some of it in the clear coat to fine tune the color i wanted. I don't like dying wood with a rag unless it is for a sand back, it looks too uneven. here's a picture without flash:
  10. Teal is nice. I tried doing something like blue matteo for my PRS copy, but it ended up looking more like the abalone color of PRS:
  11. spanish cedar gives me allergies...regarding the smell, yeah someone might hate it, but it definitely doesn't smell like dog ****. I despise peppers and they sure as hell don't smell like dog **** hehehe
  12. Then it maybe wasn't spanish cedar. Spanish cedar always smells nice, unless of course, you hate that smell that most of us recognize as nice
  13. so i checked today...not good. So again, i had that one side cut and planed again...i'll glue that side with epoxy and that's it.
  14. yup, i've used apamate, spanish cedar, and purpleheart before it was cool, for necks, and other more obscure woods, as long as they are stable and hard enough, they are ok for necks.
  15. get a rubber block when wet sanding. Well, it only works in flat surfaces, not on guitars with carved tops...or necks.
  16. I had both side planed. It wasn't that bad. Still i wasn't happy with one laminate, so i had it cut, jointed and it's gluing right now. it has 16 clamps, and it is also clampled to a gigantic piece of sapele to distribute the force better and avoid it bends.
  17. Polyurethane is even glossier, well, automotive 2 part polyurethane, but you used to paint with wooden floors polyurethane, which i told you is damn hard, and you need special equipment to properly buff it. Nitro lacquer is easier to work with, but too fragile, prone to scratching, yellowing, shrinking, cracking and never really cures.
  18. Naw, i have sanded the piece and it is harder to see the glue lines. I could always, once the guitar is finished and about to enter the paint stage, take a dremel bit, a very thin one, and go slighty on the joints and then cover them with bondo. That way i can avoid glue creep, and won't show up when i paint the guitar.
  19. It looks good! it would be a shame if someone drilled holes thru it
  20. Tomorrow i'll plane the piece and see what's up and what decision should i take...
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