eddiewarlock

Thanks a lot Peter

Ok no glue hijacking your threads sorry

i find interesting what you say about maple. I've just bought a plank of maple and alder, but i've never really worked with maple,much less with alder. I am debating whether to make some neck thru guitars and to laminate the necks or not because i can't find the epoxy i normaly use for laminating necks and i have been thinking on using titebond, but if glue lines are a problem with maple...

Nice!! Been there, done that

Btw, i see that you could save the body's wings, but what is the mahogany for? Another F body?

What I have discovered is that if I finish a guitar after covering up a mistake all I do is stare at it and I can't play it because I know it sucks and I can't sell it because I know it sucks. So I just am not going to do it anymore.If I can't fix a mistake to be better than before I made the mistake then it gets destroyed...no exceptions.It's the only way to keep myself honest,not to mention sane. I understand you. It's happened to me...and i hate that.

best way to glue binding, like in the end of the headstock is to use acetone. That way you'll get invisible joints

Chip es que se desconche... discolor supongo que se refiere a que si no aplicas un acabado la guitarra se queda manchada...

I do too. But epoxy doesn't swell, like it's happened to me on some guitars that despite having a perfect glue line. I like to superglue frets and polyurethane for finishing. Nitro, only if it's a classic shape

Ouch!! Sorry mate!! Now, i wouldn't scrap the project. Do you have more of that ziricote? you can cap it, between the floyd and the neck pickup. It'll be invisible.

Yeah seems like i'll go back to wood glue...

Yup, Madinter has it. Not too expensive i reckon. Peter, what epoxy do you use? Do you use what you find in Sweden? or you order T 88 as well from overseas?

as far as i know, wood glues are aliphatic resin or polivinyl, i can't remember which, but white and yellow glue are essentially the same, except the yellow one has added color. I don't know if it's true, but Martin Koch, being from Austria, back then when he wrote his book mentioned that yellow glue was hard to find in Europe and that good quality white wood glue does the trick just fine. Now, i agree with him, as it was the same in Venezuela, i used good quality white wood glue.

No, you are right John. I am sure there's good wood glue here. I just never know where to go. Back in my country it wasn't so hard, you'd ask around, and if they didn't have it you could ask them " well, do you know where i can get it?" Not here. They don't know, or won't tell you. Whatever. But i find it frustrating not knowing of a store that sells stuff for carpenters and woodworking. I don't know if those places simply don't exist or they are secret, or am i missing something. They don't sell router bits, no spokeshaves, no drill press, no veneers, no pipe keys, etc etc etc...and i live in Spain's 4th largest city. Where i come from is a town of population of 180.000, in Venezuela, south America, and i could find all of that. I never trust the places where i join the wood, and less this place where i am not allowed to stay while they do it. So far i think they did a good job, but, i like to see how they do it and stuff. Usually, when they run the piece of wood in the surfacer, if it's a long piece, they leave it hanging, and the surfacer will eat more at the end of it. The rest is usually ok. I would love to get a surfacer or a jointer, but i don't have a job yet. And best thing: i would not know where to buy one, and probably they will tell me i have to order it from Germany or England or any other country. Regarding wood glue, I know i could do this with good wood glue. BUT i don't know what brand it could be. Allan: I did see yellow glue where i bought my timber. But they sold a gallon bottle...I just need a 1/4 gallon. The rest would probably go bad. But i'll try if i can go there again and see if it's F9 or if they have any recommendations. BTW i am thinking again, of using one piece maple thru body necks...

next 7 string axe i'll build will have a 27" scale I really wanna make a guitar with that scale, even if most of my B tuned guitars are 24 3/4" guitars

well, for starters, i never trust the places where i take my timber to be cut and jointed. So i cover my back using epoxy. If i use titebond, i have to order it from overseas as well...

Hej Pukko! thanks for the kind words! I usually don't post my work here as i build mostly pointy guitars. The ones i am about to build are not exception. 2 warlocks, a rhoads, and quite possibly a Demmelition. Glueing wood with epoxy has its benefits as epoxy doesn't content water. I only use wood glues for fretboards if i ever need to replace them, or change a truss rod.

First i wanna thank Wes and Prostheta, for answering my multiple questions and hijacking their own threads. Let me start by saying i have built several guitars and i would call myself experienced regarding guitars, its construction and finishing. Here are some of the guitars i've built: So i built these guitars when i lived in Venezuela. Now i have moved to Spain. I built those guitars using local woods, like spanish cedar, katalox, purpleheart, and the ocassional maple top. But i have never worked with maple. I plan to make some neck thru guitars. I rarely build guitars with a 1 piece neck anymore. In fact, of the above shown guitars, only the Caparison Angelus copy guitar has a 1 piece neck, only because it is made of spanish cedar. And i only use titebond or wood glues for glueing fretboards. The rest of the joints, neck laminations, wings, etc, i used 2-ton epoxy made by Devcon. It cured in 24 hours, it was hard as a rock, and filled gaps. Never had a problem with it. The epoxi i have found here in Spain, which i've already bought to fix a guitar i brought with me is standard epoxi, Araldit, made by Ceys. The label reads it hardens at 6 hours, resists traction at 12 hours and its maximum resistance is reached after 3 days. I planned to use it to glue neck laminates and body wings. But it seems like the stuff is less than ideal. Here are the pieces of maple i intend to use as necks: They are rift sawn maple pieces. I am thinking of using 1 piece thru body necks, and gluing its wings with perhaps that epoxi or maybe decent quality wood glue... Any comments and advice even criticizing is welcomed. I feel like starting over, like i have never built a guitar before and it is very frustrating.

That's because the media in the USA isn't controlled ( yet) by the goverment. Anyways, I guess i'll open my own thread regarding these builds as i have hijacked Wes' thread enough

They drilled 3 holes...they said i carried drugs inside the guitar. The scanned 3 times. But didn't give it to the drugs dog to sniff it. They just wanted to **** me.

I did think it was ok 7.50 euros for that epoxi ( 10 us $) I used it to fix the holes that the nazi onal guard made in my guitar for being against the goverment. Sanded well and rock solid. That's why i thought it might work.

Yeah..seems like i'll contact them, but it's frustrating. You'd think that moving from South America to Europe is great and you'll find everything cheaper and better. Not in this case.

the epoxi i used to use in Venezuela was thick, not clear at all. It fully cured after 24 hours. Rock solid. 10 times cheaper too. seems like i'll have to buy polyurethane glue...

**** me then...there is nothing better in this country...grrr

amazingly clean as usual, Pukko. Is the top glued already?