Pibrocher

I recently was given a classical guitar that we found on a jobsite. It was actually in a case in a big trash dumpster. The thing looks totally brand new. the inside label reads as follows... Wilson and Sons Guitars City of Industry, California JT-2 serial numer CT101 made in japan 1968 I have searched the internet for any refrences to Wilson and Sons JT-2 classical guitars and have found only one site. The site refers to a JT-4 model and only briefly describes the playability of it. Has anyone ever heard, or possibly owned one of these guitars? If was really made in 1968 then it could be a bit of collectors item. I am always skeptical about this sort of thing so any input would be appreciated. I can get some pics if it would help anyone.

Way to go man, love thy neighbor!

Great theme man, keep up the good work. Love to see mixed media projects of this caliber.

Its a classic body shape and headstock. I especially like the thinline semi-hollow ones of later years. Love the all steel bridge assembly too.

I agree totally. I have had to spend some time familiarizing myself with its workings. I've had to do a few repairs myself over the years, nothig too bad. I replaced the reverb unit at one point. It would have cost me $120 to send it back to CArvin to fix, instead i orded the reverb assembly from them and installed it myself for like $50. I am currently getting some problems with the input jack. So i called Carvin and they said nothing about me doing it myself, only suggested that i pay the nominal $120 fee to have them fix it. They better put a whole new circuit board on and buff the knobs for that price!

Dimebag will be very dearly missed. It is awefull to see the world lose one of the few remaining good souls.

Yeah sounds like intonation adjustment would fix it. You could always plug the bridge holes and remount it. This would set your mind at ease knowing the scale length is correct and the action starts within adjustable range.

I install kitchen cabinets for a living and have conversed with several Corian counter-top installation friends. They showed me a liquid Corain repair liquid that struck me as an awesome way of doing inlay work. Simply route out the area you want inlayed then fill with the liquid Corian. The Corian sets up hard and can be sanded till flush with the surface of the guitar. The liquid also is available in as many colors as there are Corian types. Only problem seems to be acquiring the stuff. Does anyone know where i can order some of this wonderful Corian repair liquid? My installation friends said it is only sold to certified Corian installers. They let me borrow the gun used to mix and apply the Corian. It is similar to epoxy, as it comes unmixed and in two tubes. I can't seem to get any for my own personal use though. I'd like to experiment more with it in my own time.

CARVINS ! The MTS3212 is a beast. All tube, British series speakers, 5881 tubes. Lots of power, variable tube positions, 50/100 watt. A very versatille amp, i reccomend it highly. Try one sometime if you are ever in California. I ordered mine sight unseen from the catalog and have never been happier. MASTER TUBE SERIES

Will you even notice much playing difference by scalloping only the high register frets? I like scalloped necks, big Yngvie Malmstein fan! What gauge strings are using on this guitar?

Some things i look for in a good router: - Does it have a worklight built into it? - Visibility, does the base and support arms block your view of the working surface? - Ability to use guide bushings - Ease of use, such as location of trigger, safety locks and handles etc. Of course pay attention to, as the others pointed out, the meterial quality of the parts. Metal better then plastic always.

Be inventive with your sanding block shapes. There aren't many problems that can't be solved by making a new tool...

Thats an awesome Idea. Never thought about putting LEDs into the fretboard.

Hello all, heres the Mushroom Project for your voting pleasure. This is the first guitar i'v ever built, so BE GENTLE. I meant to enter her in December's contest but I missed the entry date. Procrastination strikes again! Some of you may have seen it already. All the hardware was purchased from Warmoth. This little fungus gem was built completely from scratch. Mahogany sides with maple and mahogany sandwiched neck-thru. Body - Mahoganhy, 1 3/4" thick Neck - 2 piece Maple + 1 piece mahogany Fretboard - Birdseye maple Mushroom - Mahogany, Maple, and Cherry inlays Radius - 15" Scale length = 25.5" 24 frets Abalone 1/4" dot inlays Pickups Neck - Seymour Duncan Jazz Bridge - Syemour Duncan '59 Tunomatic bridge Stop tailpiece Black and Gold concentric pots 3 Way switch, Rythym/Both/Treble Gotoh Tuners There are no electronics channels routed in the face of the guitar and only a small section on the back. I wanted to showcase the wood more then anything so I drilled some tunnels in the sides before glueing the body to the neck. Looks like trouble already though, i'm running against another Leviathan Beauty!

Hi guys, i'm starting the design process for my next project. I'd like to make an 8 string bass (4 couplets). I was wondering what everyone though about the scale length and neck width. A few other points of question (keep in mind that i am a guitarist not a bassist) 2 truss rods? I have seen these basses before and heard that they use two truss rods in alot of the Rickenbacker 12-string electric guitars. I thought the increased string tension would warrant this need. String spacing... Intonation adjustment, i will use the Schaller bridge that Warmoth has... Pickups: Active or Passive, and Brands let me know a few favorites... I was thinking that i would like to give the bass a bit of a fuzzy tone, any ideas how to do this? I am not very good with the wiring and electronics portion... I will most likely use a mahogany body with a maple top of some sort. Maybe even go with a boxier design with bindings around the top and back. Thanks for any input!

Heres another shot of that mushroom and the knobs closeup.

I built this device that allows you to swing a router across the surface of the soon-to-be fretboard. The router sits in a guide roughly 3 feet wide that allows it to be moved the length of the fretboard. The fretboard gets clamped down under the router. The arms on the sides are drilled with different radius holes so that you can move it up or down for 15' to 10' radiuses. The entire device was mounted on the end of my workbench. It worked very well with only a few minor problems. Ripping out the side of the fretboard can be a problem so i could only shave about a 1/16" at a time. The router base got a little sticky in the guides but some lithium spray lubricant helped it moved freely. After routing i used a 10 inch sanding block to smooth out any burns or rough spots. After that the fretboard is ready to have slots cut. I'll post a picture with dimensions to help anyone who wants to try and make one of these. OK, i moved this topic to the tutorials section. check out all the pics and description there. Bench-Top Router Radiusing

Awesome man. The orbital sander was a good idea. Lot quicker then using a shaver or scrapers. What are the details on that neck you are using? Also nice job modifying the headstock. I am thinking about doing an arched top on my next project, will have to remember some of your tricks.

That top looks awesome. I've never seen the lake salvaged wood. It looks like its got some amazing grain and color. I'll have to look into the Buzzsaw supply company. I really like the body style on your leviathan series ! What type of burst is it going to be?

There is no coloring or oil finishing. I put it through a sanding regiment up to about 600 grit. Then about 5 coats of spray on urethane sanded in between every other layer. I can't remember what style the knobs are I just bought them based on color. They are gnurled as you can see and very easy to use. I didn't want to clutter the mushroom too much so i stacked the knobs. I ran into some problems getting the wiring to fit into the cavity though. I drilled channels into the sides before glueing them to the neck. So i was working in a limited space. There is a piece of mahogany sandwiched behind the fretboard. It made for a very sexy line runnning the length of the neck.

I'm new to this forum thing. I would have posted sooner in the project but i was way busy and didnt have a website to store the pictures on. I just finisheed getting the intonation runnning in this guitar. It took me aproximately 2 months to finish. This is my first guitar. I modified a LesPaul DC body to get the staggered horns. It was built completely from scratch. The neck is made from sandwiched maple and mahogany. The sides are also mahogony. I bought all the hardware from Warmoth, they were real nice to talk work with and helped me decided which pickups to use. Scale Length: 25.5 Radius: 15" Body thicknes: 1 3/4" Finish: Polyuerethane Pickups: Seymour Duncan Jazz in the neck position, and Seymour Duncan '59 in the bridge spot. Stop tailpice and tunomatic bridge. Heres a shot of the mushroom when i first pieced it together. Not sure how many pictures i can post in this so i'll stop for today.