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thedoctor

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Everything posted by thedoctor

  1. thedoctor
    Ok, I vote for the 59n and the JB for bridge. Remember, this is MY opinion and will differ wildly from other's. My opinion is the JB doesn't split very well, at least not as well as the 59. JBs DO respond well to series/paralell switching.
  2. thedoctor
    Well, I guess my opinion is better than none. That wood doesn't do anything for me. I don't see any character in it that makes me want to build a guitar. The two pieces don't really go together all that well. But, I am VERY old-school in things like this. If you see a guitar in it, the part you are considering blemished is small and could be cut out or "built-around" one way or another. Is this local wood? The number tag makes me think it is internet wood. Carry on!
  3. thedoctor
    It may be the way it is photographed but it looks to me like the lower one will have a lot more body below the string line than above, hence the "bulky" look. I vote for the upper, more angular one.
  4. thedoctor
    Ya know, I almost ordered a sample of engraver brass after looking at some office soccer trophies. Stuff looks pretty goldy to me. I'll get a piece and let you know. I really can't go plating cause the parts usually are needed ASAP and plating has a 2-4 week turnaround. The last piece I made was a Tele bridge pickup cover to be used without a pickguard and a Gotoh fixed bridge. Kind of a booger but it came out OK. Thanks for the input. Good as usual.
  5. thedoctor
    Setch, you got it right!! Their PRS version is an absolute travisty. Still gotta say, the kids have loved building the TELEs.
  6. thedoctor
    Please clarify which pickup is humming. The actual neck pickup on a Tele is easy to wire backwards. An ohmeter test should show 7kohms to the cover(ground) from the hot lead and zero to cover(ground) from the ground lead. Lower readings from the hot could be an internal short.
  7. thedoctor
    Bastard is a term used to desribe unwanted or uneeded. He has two 3/8" laminates the straddle the center of the neck. Good place for two truss rods? Specially Martin-styles which are ultru-stable. Basses love trussrods.
  8. thedoctor
    I don't know why you need a very big heel block but it is fine to just laminate them on. I am actually responding to let you think about using your trussrod routing rquirements let you use more of your wood. Instead of routing after the neck is laminated, offset your laminate pieces to form a pocket for your truss rod(s). Save wood and eliminates the bastard routing of maple.
  9. thedoctor
    You may want to take advantage of this problem and make a real improvement to your axe. Drill the holes your screws were in to 3/8" and epoxy a pair of 10-32 "coupling" nuts in the new holes after filing some rough spots in the sides of them. Then you will have permanent metal threads you can adjust and screw with forever without worrying about wearing out the wood. I do it as a matter of course on any trem setup I do when the player is going to be playing with string-guage, etc.
  10. thedoctor
    The action needs to be a little lower, in my opinion.
  11. thedoctor
    Has anyone found the right brass alloy to make covers and plates that will buff out to match gold? I have tried "cartridge" brass but it buffs out just a touch too yellow. Any help?
  12. thedoctor
    I used to buy my necks from Warmoth but they turned into a bunch of bean-counters and their customer relations went to crap. USA gets my vote unless you have good feelings for buying a guitar and throwing the body away. I do that a lot, anymore. I like to buy a used Hamer or LTD or Jackson and start over with just the neck. Pawnshops are FULL of them.
  13. thedoctor
    I actually love the Gibson humbucker for all positions but you can only get them for 4-string. Since that is what you are working on I will go out on a limb and insist you try one. The minis on the EB-3 are the best thumpers I have ever heard. In my humble(not) opinion.
  14. thedoctor
    This is a little wierd coming from an old sceptic of cheap like me but I bought a couple of the Saga kits for kids in my Sunday school class to "build" and have a few positive comments. The Tele kits were wonderful. Crap hardware, of course, but the necks were amazing. The kids were FLOORED when they plugged them in after spending about 30 hours of painting and adjusting. They did some nice (wierd) color-schemes and were tickled to death when they made noise. The carved-top ones leave a little more to be desired. The bodies are paintable crap and the hardware is worse. I think you could build a couple of the Tele kits on a "custom" basis and learn a lot. Please don't sell them before doing a complete shielding job on them. They REALLY need it cause the things are radio antennas.
  15. thedoctor
    Ed, if it helps I believe he is calling the neck the "arm". My best guess is he is also referring to bridging/bracing and sound-holes. Other than that, my dog ain't in this fight.
  16. thedoctor
    Get an inspection mirror and look at the underneath-side of the bridge. I believe you will find both problems. The buzz/rattle could be loose fasteners or cracked bridging. The tuning problems are probly the string ends pulling up into the pegholes. The ends need to be wedged against the front edge of the pegholes so they don't enter the hole itself. Worn or bent pegs can cause this and it will get worse as the holes wear. It's an accoustic thing.
  17. thedoctor
    Lord, forgive me! I really thought BTW was another forum member! Us old farts don't belong here. I just found out what "lol" means! Sorry for my confusion. And, yeah. A lot of the guys I shield and setup for are happy as clams as soon as they plug in their noisy effect pedals and hear that old humm come back. I have gated preamps on my gig-rack and when I let someone try it, they scare the crap out of themselves the first time they crank it. If it doesn't hum, it must not be on.
  18. thedoctor
    Frank, will the fishman tolerate 18 volts? It helps the crap out of the bass pre/EQs that I have messed with but none of them were fishman.
  19. thedoctor
    Uhmm, somehow I can't find BTW's comment in this string. Was it posted on another subject?
  20. thedoctor
    I agree the 3 + 3 looks a lot better. Don't even think of a 5 + 1 pile of poo. How about a carved, slotted headstock like a classical guitar? I REALLY want to make a bass with a carved, slotted headstock but have a billion other fires in the iron.
  21. thedoctor
    I must say, the flattest neck I have ever set up with no buzzing or finger-pressure intonation problems was a Jackson. They "got it going on" as far as necks go. It has got to be a fret-height and leveling thing cause I see the same low action on a lot of Jacksons.
  22. thedoctor
    You got a bad collet or are using the wrong collet for the cutter/bit. Probly bad collet. Go buy a Black and Decker collet for same tool and it will probly tighten enough to stop spinning loose when you shut down.
  23. thedoctor
    Lobo is relabeled crap. Run away, be very afraid! If bought new and used by ONE person only, they will do the work. Most are outside this scenario when sold used.
  24. thedoctor
    I respect the knowledge and thought put into your answers to posts in this forum so I would like to ask you, and others, about cavity wiring issues. I cavity-shield and rewire a lot of guitars and use the best of everything(pots,etc.). I have been called to task for using solid 24ga. copper for static (non-flex) signal paths by people who say it removes the "vintage tone" of the original. I think they are just used to hearing the 44 decibal humm their Teles put out at idle before I shielded them. Surely, solid wire is not a sin, even for purists! After all, the pickups are wound with lighter-gauge solid than this. I hope to hear ALL thoughts on this cause I am willing to change, even at my age.
  25. thedoctor
    I have been trying everything I can to get a rough texture on the back of two bass necks and have been defeated in my efforts. I put four fast coats of laquer on and wiped them into a horrible swirl only to have them nice and flat two days later. I tend to lose neck-position when making fast position changes and just need more roughness on the backside of the neck. Please don't reccomend that sandpaper-tape stuff cause the problem isn't that bad. Cello bow rosin helps quite a bit but lasts about 10 minutes. Anyone else have this problem or just me?
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