Jump to content

Daniel Sorbera

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    3,375
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Daniel Sorbera

  1. One of my friends just bought this guitar for himself for christmas. Hard to see it go because I really like playing it, but oh well, time to build another
  2. It's not the truss rod (well, a little bit is) What's going in on is that the higher string tension is pulling the bridge up --you need to reset the bridge by adjust the springs --you do that by adjusting the claw. Depending on how much heavier the new guage is, you might need to add a spring. Here's a good site for setting up your trem If that doesn't help you, then you shouldn't be messing around with your guitars. Take it to a shop, the tech will sort it out in five minutes. +1 it definitely sounds like tremolo issues to me. Look at the back of your bridge and see how much it's pulling it up compared to before, you may have to tighten the springs in the back.
  3. Personally I like building acoustics more because there is more hand tools and the end result is so impressive. I don't really think it is that much harder to building an electric. If you have all the right jigs it will make your life much easier. But if you try to build it without any jigs than yeah it's very hard.
  4. We've been building guitars (electrics) for just a bit under 3 years now. and yes it's a really nice camera. It's my brothers Canon 20D with a very nice lens.
  5. This is my second acoustic guitar. I call it the SA-1 Specs: Black limba body/neck Cedar top Rosewood fingerboard Rosewood bindings Rosewood headstock overlay Abalone texas inlay on the headstock. K&K trinity pickup system w/outboard preamp/mixer Link to album with more photos
  6. I finally got some pictures taken. Sorry they have been a long time coming, been super busy lately. pic2 pic3 pic4 pic5 pic6 pic7 pic8 pic9 pic10 pic11 pic12 pic13
  7. I think he can use the same one, just change the back with the top. that's how i do it. Yeah thats right. You just have to glue the top on the back and the back on the top (making sure to sand the correct radius into the right rim of course).
  8. I just started work on a new acoustic commission. He is a lefty so it will be left handed w/cutaway. It will have a figured mahogany back with a sitka spruce top and rosewood bindings. The tuners will be chrome schaller with ebony buttons and it will have fishman prefix electronics. Pictures to come.
  9. I have had this saw for quite a while, it still works great. 12" blade powerful motor, not sure what horsepower it is, but it cuts through thick ebony and bubinga no sweat. We are upgrading to a nice dewalt miter saw with an extending arm for longer cuts. The blade on it is cheap, but it's still pretty sharp. Stand in pictures not included link2 link3 link4 Local pickup only, San Antonio area, shipping not recommend due to size/weight. We are asking $95.
  10. Darren, Sir, you ROCK If you buy one of my guitars, i'll throw in the headstock free I agree. I've always been partial to your headstock design. Flows very nicely.
  11. I particularly like the 001 plate on the back of the headstock.
  12. He has not really decided on gold/black/chrome yet but I agree that both black and gold look great over green. I'll try both tinting the epoxy and strait up clear and see what look he likes best. Right now I'm using liquid anilyne dyes, but I'm open to any suggestions if you know of something that would suit my purpose better.
  13. This one is nice and light, have not weighed it yet but it's substantially lighter than a comparable piece of mahogany. On your finish questions, I am using Krystal clear which is a two part conversion varnish where you have to mix in the hardener. It works great for me. Excellent cure time, very easy to apply, and has great durability and clarity. I'm using epoxy to grain fill and the trans tint color will be added to the clear and sprayed on. Hardware looks like a hipshot bridge EMG pickups and schaller tuners with ebony buttons, and of course recessed strap locks.
  14. Paul Smith, the guy I built the natural wenge/flame maple single cut wants a double cut swamp ash in trans green. Going to be pretty sweet. Here it is cut out on the bandsaw. and here is a picture of the color we are going for. link
  15. Better. Still not for me, but if you like it than roll with it.
  16. Not a problem with a drop off that small. Go ahead and glue the board on, it will probably pull it back strait. If your still having issues you can level sand the board before installing the frets (which you should check/do anyway).
  17. That color is pretty ugly IMHO I think you should try again. Doesn't do justice to the rest of the guitar.
  18. Thank you that answered my questions perfectly. So it has dual volumes for separate preamp stages (one labeled volume and one labeled drive) and one master volume that controls the poweramp.
  19. Hey wez, maybe you can clear something up for me. Why does your matamp have a volume, drive, *and* master volume in a single channel amp? Does it have a built in load dump and the master volume is actually post poweramp? Or does it have multiple volume/gain controls for multiple preamp gain stages? Otherwise that control is quite repetitive and does nothing.
  20. You can indeed do that. But in my opinion it just looks plain UGLY.
  21. +1 I say just get it. I did a few guitars with my dremel at 50 minutes+ per guitar. Than I got the tang nipper and it takes more like 5 minutes. Very much worth the price.
  22. So when did guitarists get so lazy that we cant tune our own guitars? Whats this world coming to....
×
×
  • Create New...