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bluesy

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Everything posted by bluesy

  1. It is strange. I was trying to find out the height of various bridges I see on sale, and most sellers do not state the max and min bridge heights. Are they all built to some standard? Because if not, it's a rather important piece of info to omit. The best site for including info and dimensions that I found is Warmoth, btw, but even they leave out this info, for example this vintage strat bridge that's similar to yours, but slightly smaller http://www.warmoth.com/hardware/bridges/pd...xed_Diagram.pdf
  2. I found a nice shareware program called ABviewer that is very good at handling CAD drawings and printing to multiple pages. It's homepage is http://www.cadsofttools.com/ Here's a pic of the printing dialog. All you do, after select printer and page size and orientation, is select 1:1 as the scale, and it shows you how it is going to print it over multiple pages (I am using A3 pages). When I printed this dxf drawing on our laserjet, it was very accurately sized.
  3. I have, and I am very happy with the sound. The only thing that might prevent me using pine again is the softness and how easily it damges.
  4. I tried to print a pdf file to multiple pages just a week ago, and Acrobat reader (8 I think) won't split it into multiple pages. The non-free version of their software for creating pdf's will though ( a friend who has it, printed my drawing for me) - though it's not an option for most of us. So, I guess it's worth exploring what software/formats will do it (and print to scale). If I get some time this week I might see what I can find, because I will want to print out a fender neck template myself soon. As an aside, are there any good drawings of a tele (os strat) neck downloadable? I have one of the tele body, but not the neck.
  5. I sure will In fact I will be able to run through from the jack hole to the tailpiece bushing hole, staying parallel to the guitar body surface. That sounds so much easier than trying to get the angle right in 3 dimensions. It's just the sort of idea I was hoping to get. I bought a long 3mm drill bit today and I will attack it next weekend - if not sooner. Next build, I will put a ground wire in before I seat the bushing ! Thanks for the help - great forum!
  6. Is the thread some standard size/type or will I have to do some trial and error? I could use the bridge stud that screws into the bushing I suppose, except that it has a screw slot head and I might not be able to get enough torque on that without damaging it. I had a thought that, since only a very fine wire is needed, I can use a very small hole that comes up right beside the post, under the tailpiece body and attach it to the flange, even put it between the bushing and the post and screw the post down onto it. It would be VERY hard to see, especially if I touched it up with some black paint to match the bushing.
  7. I really like it. A thinline tele is on my list for a later project. I just had a quick read of your blog to see how you did it. The concept of a partly hollowed body and a "cap" on top is one I have only recently read about. Looks like something I could handle. Well done.
  8. Thanks. What I am doing, is teaching myself by doing it. So, I'll probably try various styles, starting with solid bodies because they are easiest, and working up to hollow bodies, and semi-acoustics. My next venture is to make a neck similar to the one in that photo. Pre-made necks are cheap, barely more than the cost of wood and parts, but I want to be able to make my own. I'll probably carve the neck the way I want it, and then buy a pre-radiused, pre-slotted fingerboard, inlay and fret it myself. Maybe on the next one I'll make the fingerboard as well. - Just taking it slowly.
  9. OK, I have a small crowbar. Pine, being soft, I guess it shouldn't be as tight as I feared
  10. Thanks for the replies everyone. Question, what's a good way to remove the tail piece bush without marking the surface of the body. It was a tight fit when I drove it in.
  11. Yes, the pine does look good doesn't it? I just used satin varnish on it. As people warned, pine is very soft and it will collect some dings I am sure. Patching them up should be easy though - or maybe I'll just let it "age" and collect it's war wounds as it goes I opted for the tailpiece because my carving skills are not up to making a nice wooden trapeze tailpiece yet. I chose black to match the pickup and the control knob. I wanted to have a black vs wooden thing happening. Maybe if I stain the bridge darker it will look better. Thanks for the comments.
  12. Yes I just posted a pic of the guitar in another thread (I just finished it today) http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=36817
  13. I am very happy that I got it to look this good, despite me experimenting and learning to use the tools as I built it. There's a couple of minor flaws in the finish - I'll get better at it. It is great fun to play and I even like the sound. I think the brightness of the pine and the wooden floating bridge combine well.
  14. I have found that I was getting some buzz from my guitar until I connected a ground wire from the shielded braid on the wiring in the control cavity, to the strings or the tailpiece (which is connected to the strings electrically). The sound is silenced completely if I am also touching the strings. Because it's a solid body, it's not easy to permanently put a wire between them. I was looking for ideas on how I might do this the most easily and neatly?
  15. I might just leave this one natural blonde and spray some clear over it. I will do some practice on off cuts also however.
  16. I need to practice staining. I have tried a couple of times on things like the overhead light housing on my aquarium :-) and the result was woeful. Maybe because I was trying to stain pine to a dark walnut, but it just didn't come out even.
  17. Yep, even things like the fridge or washing machine switching on and off can come through high gain amps, especially if they aren't well shielded. Also, try sitting in front of your average home computer with a guitar using single coil pickups.
  18. Yes, I would test cables, but it could be a tube. The insides of a tube can become rattly due to vibrations from the amp when it's in use and also transporting it. They can also develop bad contacts where they plug into the chassis. A gentle tap on each one may reveal if one or more of them is having problems. If a tap provokes the problem, you can try replacing it with a spare and/or clean the pins and contacts. Sometimes just pulling a tube out of it's socket and putting it back can fix a bad contact. Always turn off the power before replacing a tube, or cleaning the contacts, and use good quality non-residue contact cleaner (not something like WD40).
  19. I will be interested in the replies you get also. I was thinking of a natural finish on my project, and had planned to use something like satin polyurethane for an easy finish. However, it's good to know alternatives. I have heard of oil, but have no experience with it. Does the guitar feel oily at all when it's finished, or does the oil dry completely? To complicate matters, I read the other day somewhere that a lot of "oils" are really varnishes.
  20. It rings nicely, has a definite twang, but that was with the test single coil pickup. I have since routed a neck position humbucker into place, and I am about to route a hole in back for the controls. I also made a nicely grained wooden pickguard - styled a bit like an archtop pickguard. I also plan to use a hard stop piece rather than the temporary tailpiece in the photo. Progress has slowed because I am only doing a bit of work each night, but I hope to get to finishing it this weekend. I am thinking a satin finish clear coat will look good on the pine.
  21. How about something really different for the piezo preamp/buffer? Here's a subminiature valve (tube) circuit in kit form. More info, including a pdf with circuit here. http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//produ...3dea00ebef48950
  22. Usually they are inlayed mother of pearl, abalone, or most commonly plastic.
  23. You can still buy them... http://www.music123.com/Squier-by-Fender-C...400994.Music123 a thread about it... http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecaster-disc...3-why-pine.html a page about early pine esquires... http://www.provide.net/~cfh/fender2.html more on pine teles... http://www.thegearpage.net/board/archive/i...p/t-241204.html
  24. Well don't shoot me either, but here's some info on plywood and guitars http://liutaiomottola.com/PrevPubs/Plywood/Plywood.htm
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