gun

I don't know the polymerized Tung oil but everyone here say to go for the Tru oil, I will use it for my neck. I seen 2 coats of Tru oil and then a wood wax should be fine, but I think that to check instructions isn't a bad idea. I know that Tung oil is a pure oil without any addition. Usually danish oil (used to finish necks) was a mix of tung oil and polyurethane lacquer... something so. But now a lot of people are using Tru oil instead Danish oil to finish necks and bodies too. Start with 500ml. I believe you should be able to finish your body and neck. And if you perform a search, there are a lot of posts about oil finish. Hopeing that can help you. Gian

For people having no idea of what you're speaking about: some pictures or links please???

I seen here a guy made 2 custom Tele, he used the recessed plate for bolt on attachment. They look cool also if I prefer the AANJ à la Ibanez.

That was a great axe. Why did you remove pictures?

That was a great reference but now no picture I hope LGM will take some pictures of his work soon.

Very very nice!!! Cheers Donald

I just have the board in hand and... yes it seems a very close grain rosewood. Very dense and hard but if I compare it with gabon ebony they don't seem to have the same grain. It's a very good quality board but it isn't the ebony for what I have experience of. I think the sound will be near rosewood than ebony. I still am undecided. Ok I have time till truss rod installation to decide

Yes I was just searching the posting rules cuz I remembered that max pic was 1 for post but I wasn't sure Ok next time I will follow them

WOW that looks great!!! Go on man!!!

I just fixed the pictures It seemed a monstrous thing to me too. I still am a bit afraid but I'm going. Keep with you a lot of patience, care and attention to details. Yes a bit of understanding on how to use tools and with guitar technique construction too. But definitively it isn't impossible. Everyone began with a first neck, then there is this great board where you can ask or search For asian ebony it is a very good board. Well aged but the grain seems to me more near a good straight grain rosewood than a black ebony. I never heard to speak about its tonal quality so I am a bit undecided about. Did anyone try it? Thanks

Hi folks yesterday I just began my first neck for a custom JEM I'm making. I bought a 2 pcs alder body from a VIP member here 6 months ago, he's very busy so I decided to make my first one also cuz after translated a lot of tutorial from project for Progettochitarra.com I must try something!!! LOL Neck is a scarf joint 14 degree angled headstock from 1 pc 1/4 sawn hard maple. Ebony fretboard. Vine inlay with purpleheart stem. Double action truss rod. Dunlop 6105 fretwire. I know I posted here saying I couldn't make a scarf joint but it was more cheaper so and I went for it as my first attempt. For ebony a guy offered me a black asian ebony fretboard 5 years air dried for 12$. What do you think about? Will it be fine or is better african ebony? BTW the first pictures of the progress: after the cut of the angle (band saw) and planing (sorry no picture) the glueing I use blockbuster card too clamping with 2 spare blocks with angle cutted http://www.absinthium.it/JEM/IbanezGian006.jpg and the neck clamped and left to cure http://www.absinthium.it/JEM/IbanezGian007.jpg Today I begin with the rasp and the plane. Edit: I corrected a lot of writing errors ADMIN EDIT- Please re-read the rules regarding pics in posts: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=11235 Thanks.

Thanks..... mhh to achieve properly thickness do you glue them? Or do you simply put one on the other?!?! This is the "last" doubt!!! LOL

Krazy what do you use to shim? Brass, stell??? I guess you can't find any of those dimensions ready but you make them from your blank shims. thanks

If you want to make a nut of 43 mm go for the R4. It is 10" radius and the only option is to shim the bridge with those great infos KrazyDerek gave you first. The Stew Mac locking nut is a Shaller and is 14" . BTW it is a good quality nut. P.S. Cheers KrazyDerek I was looking for those a long time. 2 posts here and no reply but now I have them!!!

Hi folks I am curious to know what sealer you use under polyurethane finish. I heard of people using polyester, water base acrilic and other the clear coat as sealer. Where I live it's difficult to find polyester and other acrilic finish so the more easy for me is the clear coat poly. But I don't know how to paint a stained body with water base dye. Should I use directly the poly clear coat, or do you have another advice? Thanks everyone Gian

Amazing!!! But it is almost unnecessary to comment Craig's work: it always is awesome!!! Cheers master!!! Gian

I like it. Cheers!!! Maybe I would go for metal knob but it looks great anyway. Gian

Another great one!!! I must dip mine now

Bad swirled body IMO and bad "half" monkey grip. I think anyone here would buy one. 350 CAN are about 290 US $ however I firmly think they aren't worth the money.

If you dip bare wood you will end up with a cracked body very soon. As Blacknight said you have to prepare the body with sanding sealer (filler for porous wood too), base coat usually white also if Black approaches a different way and with very good results. You have to use also a sealer like wax in bridge e neck screws to prevent water inside.

Yeah this looks great. Again cheers my friend!!! the red? how it did?

Yes Batfink is right. here in Italy we have jewellers that can supply that stuff, but usually they aren't simple sellers of jewels. However with that gauge and square wire you're ok.

I didn't seen you're in UK e not US. Sorry I don't know any link in UK. BTW I think a supplier for jewelers will have it. The stem of a JEM is about 1,5 mm. The number of the gauge is 14 (just about 1,6 mm). Ask for a square wire. Hope it's useful this time!!!! Gian

Great for us in Italy too. Cheers man!!!

Try here! Gian