daniboy

james hetfield used the invader pre-emg till the puppets album. never did use the 7-string model. but i guess it won't be much of a difference. do take note that the invader is a pretty bass-heavy pickup. may be to bassy on a mahogany body. and especially so if you are using it on a 7-string. for a 7-string, i would suggest something more articulate to prevent your b string from turning into mush.

thanks for the reply greg. i am not looking for any 10-top or such. just a plain plank of honduran mahogany or white limba with a set-in neck of maybe wenge/ebony. shape would be a flattop tele body with double cutaways like a les paul dc. hardware to be confirmed. what will be a reasonable price for such a project? cheers! dani

thanks for the warning vankirk! as for building my own, i very much would love to do it but i do not have the necessary tools to pull it off.

hi guys, pardon me if i post this in the wrong department. i am looking for a luthier/guitar builder who can build a custom guitar at reasonable prices. thanks as always, dani

hi guys, i have for sale an almost mint seymour duncan vintage 54 rhythm pickup for the neck of a tele. $40 gets it shipped via registered airmail to your door where ever you are. paypal preferred. cheers! dani p.s. i have good reference at the duncan forum and i have traded with fellow forum member westhemann.

i have a 59b without logo if you are interested.

thanks doc! i will check the dye powders out. on the side, do you think tung oil will be a better option than water-based urethane? i was snooping around and stumbled upon woodburst.com. their bing cherry stain looks similar to heritage cherry. since they are tung oil-based, i was thinking of using it followed by pure tung oil. do you think this is advisable? cheers! dani

hi guys, what is the easiest way to achieve a heritage cherry finish on honduran mahogany without using rattlecans or spray equipment? i am from singapore and due to shipping restrictions, i have no access to flammable stuff. hope you guys can help me out here. cheers! dani

hang on there. sd is coming out with a new noiseless strat pickup. you aught to check it out first.

the 85 is sold. thanks for all the interest! cheers! dani

seymour duncan antiquities ii surfers. a5 mags and as authentically vintage as it can get.

you can unscrew 2 of the 4 brass screws that attaches the baseplate to the bobbin. you may need a torch to see the bobbin colors and no, you do not need to unsolder the cover.

i was browsing around my neighborhood hardware store and came upon the ronseal/coloron brand of wood stains and finish. apparently, the store carries an extensive selection of their products. question is, are they suitable for guitar finishing. more information can be found here. www.ronseal.co.uk cheers! dani

i am not sure if you meant impedance or resistance. but its a general consensus that the higher the resistance, the higher the output.

you will need opposite poles to attach the bar magnet. if you put north and north together, i reckon the magnetic field strength will increase, but the magnets will repel one another. i personally haven't tried this. do let us know how your experiment turns out jester. cheers! dani

my bad. its suppose to be steel baseplate.

duncan 59. perfect for classic rock. a step up in output will be the custom 5.

cts or cge pots. avoid mini-pots like the plague. you will want one with audio taper. also, pot values are pretty erratic. i actually have a 500k pot measured at 360k. i can direct you to some places where you can get cts pots. they are known to measure their pots before sending them out. dani

i think you are referring to a brass baseplate. by adding a bar magnet under a singlecoil's pole magnets, you will actually demagnetize the pickup. not a very good idea.

wow stewmac did change them a bit.i swear they used to be identical. bet they still get them from the same place carvin does apparently, i heard stewmac got their necks from carvin.

there is a argument going on if resistance is an accurate measurement of output. i have read that different gauge of wires wired to the the same resistance yields different output. i may be wrong though. since strings vibrate more in the neck than bridge, its almost always louder in the neck even if a paf-type (7 to 8k) output pup is used. due to the frequency response of the neck position - more lows than the bridge - you will also perceive an increase in output. you will have to trust your ears on this. may i know what pickups are you using? dani

hey meegs, if you are intend on getting the jag pups, don't forget the the steel keeper. the steel keeper has a serrated-edge to increase the magnet flux, increase output and reduce hum. you may find these hard to get hold of. do bear in mind that jag pups will not fit a pickguard routed for strat pups. dani

i see! there are 2 ways you can approach this. either get a scoop mids pickup and dial in the mids when you need it or get a middy pickup and cut the mids. from my limited experience, i find dialing in mids is much easier than cutting them. also, slightly scooped pickups have an inherent clearer tone and pick attack as compared to their mid oriented brothers. however, boosting mids (as do all eq) do result in a slight increase in electronic noise which imo, is neglectable. just a thought, i do like the slightly middy fred in the bridge, great rhythm and lead tone. remains clear and tight under high gain and cleans up real well. for something scooped, have a look at the steve's special. for example, marty's duncan jb has a bump in the high mids where jason's duncan custom is more scooped in nature. try and get as much info you can and if possible, listen to them. try seymourduncan.com. they have all their humbucker clips on their site. once you decided you like the tone of certain pickups, check their eq and match it with a dimarzio equivalent. do bear in mind that your bridge bucker should be higher in output than your neck or you will have problem balancing them output-wise hope i can help narrow down your choice of pickups. all the best! dani

no worries bro! but i am getting a bit confuse here. you want a pickup with scooped mids at the same time with lots of mids? btw, duncans do have bright colors too!

forum bros, i don't know if this is the right place to post this. but its a helpful, general idea of magnet types in relation to body/neck woods. got it from the seymour duncan site. dani What are the differences of the magnets you use in the various types of pickups and how do they best match the guitar wood and desired tone? ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Magnet Type Alnico II - Good for Warming up a bright-sounding guitar General Tone - Warm, smooth, round, enhanced mids, soft and spongy bass, soft attack Neck & Body Woods - Maple, Ash, Walnut, Pao Ferro, Alder, Graphite Composites Fingerboard Woods - Maple, Ebony, Carbon Graphite Composites Alnico V - Adding punch to a warm guitar General Tone - Bright and glassy, exceptional dynamics and tight bass end, sharp attack Neck & Body Woods - Mahogany, Korina, Koa, Bass, Alder, Poplar, Ash Fingerboard Woods - Rosewood, Walnut Ceramic - Adding punch and output to a warm guitar General Tone - Bright with enhanced upper mids, hard, aggressive harmonics, compressed dynamics and punchy bass Neck & Body Woods - Mahogany, Korina, Koa, Bass, Alder, Poplar, Ash Fingerboard Woods - Rosewood, Walnut