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borge

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Everything posted by borge

  1. I wouldn't recommend a Bugera to a gigging musician, the build quality isn't great, theres a few stories around the web about it. what if your head doesnt have an FX loop ? would it work the same running an EQ pedal inbetween the guitar and amp ? pre and post drive EQ do very different things. try moving an EQ pedal from before a dist. pedal to after without altering settings.
  2. cool idea, I hope you don't like elixirs I would fit sockets for the LED's so you don't have to tear out frets to trace faults or replace LED's
  3. Make an audio probe to find where is getting lost: http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html
  4. never thought about that, but i guess thats why the digital amps are good for low volume. I think its more the comparison with valve amps sounding not so good at low volumes. From line6.com: It would be bad for business to design a head that only sounds good with the matching cab, digital modeling or otherwise. So why would you redesign the combos for that reason?
  5. There is much hype around the web about the mesa boogie amp (a prototype IIRC) that alot of Weezer was recorded.... Not a tone an open backed fender is likely to get close to regardless of pickups...
  6. A line out is....line level ie nowhere near enough power to drive a cab. adding a speaker out socket is pretty straight forward, or you could jury rig a temporary setup,. as always be aware of impedance mismatches.
  7. Delay/reverb should be post distortion/overdrive, this is why amps have effects loops. Delaying a distorted signal sounds much better than distorting a delayed signal.
  8. You remind me of an ex-girlfriend of mine; only hears her own voice, her eyes would glaze over as others spoke, whilst she impatiently waited for her turn to speak again. 1/.05612568731829 = 17.817153745111008! Dividing by 17.817 is the accepted standard...... IE you're doing what everyone else is You are reaching answers identical to everyone else with a different calculation.
  9. This was the 1st result when i googled "yamaha 2 coil soapbars" http://www.talkbass.com/reviews/showproduct.php?product=1136 For some reason i can't copy and past from talkbass.com??? anyways, your problem is explained in the 4th paragraph of the review.
  10. sounds like they're single coils which cancel hum when combined....
  11. 1/.05612568731829 = 17.817153745111008! Dividing by 17.817 is the accepted standard...... IE you're doing what everyone else is
  12. http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Stomp...mpboxWiring.gif The size of the resister determines the LED's brightness.
  13. You know, the more that I think about this, the more enigmatic it is. In a regular guitar string scenario, if the bridge is grounded, then there shouldn't be any buzzing... in theory. I guess because the strings have a coating on them, they are now acting like antennas and picking up noise (EMI I assume), which would be happening apparently because they are not really grounded to the bridge and therefore that noise can't be shunted to ground as it normally would be. But they are earthed:
  14. yes, but your wiring simultaneously increases the resistance between the 'second' coil & earth....not good. No, check out how regular (switched) coil splitting is done... yes, unless that 'or something' is something bad.
  15. and i assume you're aware the coil tapping pot will function in the opposite direction to the V & T?
  16. In which way/s exactly does it not work? looks good except: the grey and red (assuming you've identified them correctly, do you have a DMM?) should be together on the 1M pots wiper (middle lug)
  17. if it had any less it wouldn't be a switch depends if the switch is NO or NC. (normally open or normally closed) wire a NO parallel to the output jack ie hot on one contact, earth on the other, when the switch is closed the signal is earthed/silenced. opening the circuit as in your description will be noisy. I'm sure there are latching arcade style button switches available if you're that way inclined.
  18. as in scraping a sliver from the track to alter the taper and overall resistance (higher ie from 250k to 1M) or cutting the trace so wiper to earth lug is open circuit? either is a bad idea, the first would screw the taper, why not get a higher value pot in the first place? the second would turn your pot into a variable resistor-not good!
  19. well, 4 solder points: 3 SC hot's plus their shared earth.
  20. but why only 3 solder points? cat5 has 8 conductors.....you could use the spares to 'fix' the bugs (doubled positions, lack of options ect) to take it to the extreme, you could use a XX pin socket (a DB25 may do) with all contacts (every pot tab, all switch contacts, mini switches output jack ect) connected and have each pups set plug wired in such a way to achieve most imaginable switching (alot of jumpers required!)
  21. using the same points with HSH would give N, N+M, M, M+B, B. - just like SSS gives.... using the same points with HH you could get N HB, N SC, N SC, N SC+B HB, B HB. or N HB, N HB+B SC, B SC, B SC, B HB, there are others too, but I think these are the best (well, least bad ) why?
  22. This is where a multimeter is worth it's weight in gold... Splash out and get a $10 one.
  23. So this is your aim? http://www.fender.com/features/s1/pdf/Amer...rHS011-8660.pdf This could be adapted to suit: http://guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi...amp;thread=3153 If not, post the switching logic (which contacts have continuity in each pos.) and someone here could help, or email fender. The S1 switch is notoriously unreliable, I've replaced a few faulty ones with a push pull or miniswitch DPDT in the S-none (as above) config.
  24. would you run 7 individual lengths of unscreened hookup wire right across a guitar? Even the cheapest LP copies i've seen use screened cable to the switch..... Go to your local electrical wholesaler and get some screened multicore flex of the appropriate gauge, it'll be much cheaper than 'pickup cable' but electrically identical. I'd get 4core and run two lengths, earthing both at the control cavity and one at the switch if it needs/allows, earthing both at the switch would create an earth loop.
  25. there are situations where ethernet cable must be soldered, you use heatshrink on the melt back if needed... I wouldn't use it in a guitar, particularly on a long run as it's unscreened and soli core.
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