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RDub

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Everything posted by RDub

  1. RDub
    I've been searching the usual sites to find a diagram, but doesn't seem to be anything out there. I just refinished an RG for a friend, and he want's a pickup swap, and a push pull pot added. I've got my choice of a 3 way switch, and coil tap with the push pull, or I can use the original Ibanez 5 way switch. I've found diagrams for both seperate, but I'd like to see some options for the 5 way switchAND the push pull pot. Trying to accomplish having the normal neck/both/bridge in the 1, 3 and 5 positions, but there's got to be a way to get single coil sound and out of phase sounds out of this configuration, but my brain doesn't seem to want to work right now. Anybody got any ideas?????
  2. RDub
    Everypiece of wood is different. There's no way anyone can tell you the minimum. If you get a reallly stiff peice of sitka, it might be good @.095" and a floppy piece might need to be @.130" There's way too many variables to know the minimums.
  3. RDub
    Computers are horrible for noise. My line-6 tone port software has a hum cancel option to filter some out, but it always sounds better the farther away from the computer I get.
  4. RDub
    I imagine someone with more experience than me could point you in the right direction on that, but I wouldn't really know where to begin...
  5. RDub
    Is the input jack in the heel block? Are the side cracked? How about some pics?
  6. RDub
    I've had one done for about a year now with Redwood and ferrules, and so far no problems at all.
  7. RDub
    Get a book. Cumpiano's or kincaid's are pretty good. Really don't know how you'll get a good glueing surface without the hand plane though.
  8. RDub
    I taper the board with a hand plane, then glue it to the neck, which I've already rough cut on the bandsaw. I leave the neck a little wide, but take that off when I'm shaping.
  9. RDub
    Davee gets the nod from me this month. Really don't have much to say except, if that's your first, I can't wait to see the next ones. Great job. Dickie comes in a close second. Really dig that shape. Great job by all!
  10. RDub
    Are you using stain or dye? I think they're different. FWIW, when I did my skull LP to look similar to the one in your pic, I used analine dye. I mixed black dye and tested on scrap, until I got the color I was looking for. I did wet the wood first. It helps to get an even color. I've also done a burst using the techniques in that tutorial, and it came out great. Now, with stain, I don't know if that works the same way.
  11. RDub
    I like it all except sanding and finishing equally. But I did find a new thing to enjoy, the smell Pau Ferro gives off when you work it. MMMMM, cinnamon!
  12. RDub
    #4
  13. RDub
    My blanket's 6x36" I got it online from the manufacturer, but can't remember the name, maybe omega???. If you get it from the manufacturer, yoiu'll need to put a plug on it yourself. Might also try John Hall at Blues Creek. They sell them there, and that's where I got my spring steel slats too. I use one blanket, and a router speed control to run it. There's plenty of pics of peoples setups around. I took ideas from different ones, and made my own design. The base has the springs on it, and I made it so I can change the forms for different body shapes.
  14. RDub
    I made my own bender and just use the blanket. So far no problems. I've heard the bulbs don't give a consistent heat over the entire slat, so I got a blanket. Bought mine direct from the manufacturer.
  15. RDub
    I haven't bent any figured wood yet, but I've read plenty on it. The problem with figured woods, not just figured maples, is run out. All that figure is where the grain is shifting. What happens is when you bend, the wood trys to split along the grain lines in figured wood. One thing you MUST do when bending any figured wood, is to use backing straps when bending on a pipe. I'm curious as to whether the metal slats in a fox style bender offer enough support for figured woods? Anybody have experience? Might also check out Super Soft II. Its a product to soften wood for bending, but I don't know how it would be on figured wood.
  16. RDub
    I gotta go with low end fuzz, although I agree with the previous posts about the headstock. Would've looked nicer with the lacewood on the top. I like the understated look of the wood fret markers and pickguard. #2 definately the Green LP. Awsome job on the finish. Not a big fan of gold hardware, but I like it here. Great job to everyone. They all look great. Hopefully I'll have one to put up next month. Got 4 in the works!!
  17. RDub
    No experience with Danish, but water based analine dyes work well under true oil.. Just beware , the tru oil is an amberish tint, and will affect the color of the dye.
  18. RDub
    Nope the rev. E was the first to put the jacks on the board. I believe rev F is the first with the buffer.
  19. RDub
    Thanks Paul. I'm learning about amps and circuits and such, and figured the electrolytics were for filtering after looking at the schematic. My Rev. E board doesn't have the buffering circuit, so I'm gonna do the true bypass mod on it, if I can get it up and running. Just wasn't sure what the cap values were, so thanks for the help.
  20. RDub
    Thanks for the replies guys. Paul, I like the idea of that audio tester, and think I'll make one up for this job. Thanks to one of the guys at the stinkfoot site, I've found that the orange caps, labeled 224 are .22uf. Still not sure about the blue caps on my board though. He suggests they are probably.01uf. On my board, the big electrolytic cap, that seems to me to be a filter cap says 100uf@16V. All the schematics I've seen don't have this value anywhere. Think I'll pick up a couple .22 and .01, as these seem common on most schematics I've seen, and try out Paul's audio probe, and see what I get. Thanks for the help.
  21. RDub
    I've got a Crybaby gcb-95. It's the Revision E board. When you activate the wah, the volume drops to almost nothing. I'm thinking it's got a bad cap,but the schematics I've found don't seem to jive with what I'm seeing on the board, and a couple of the caps don't have any writing on them. Anybody got any info??? The correct component values??? Maybe a good schematic for the Rev. E???
  22. RDub
    Great poitsn Setch. Forgot about the large flat surface of the tenon on the bottom...
  23. RDub
    When people do neck resets on acoustics, they pull a fret at the neck joint, and after measurung carefully, drill a smell hole into the neck joint through the fret slot. Then, using a special setup with a hose and needle, they put steam through the hole into the neck joint to loosen the glue. Look on the OLF for a tutorial, I think there's some there. And check Stew Mac for the equipment. I've seen people rig up a pressure cooker for the steam, or an espresso maker, but I caution you. Steam can build up VERY high pressures, and you must have a relief of some sort, so you don't blow yourself up. Don't see why that wouldn't work for an electric too.
  24. RDub
    go over to the OLF and search for armrest. There's a few guys there that do alot of them.
  25. RDub
    Had to vote against my own work!! Big D for me. Love everything but the knobs. Something about the abalone throws it off for me. Really like the looks of all the rest, too. Tough competition! As for mine, I agree with everyones assesment, and the knobs have to go. Already got a set of tele style knobs on order for it.
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