Helldunkel

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Laminated necks do warp, it can be much worse then with a one piece neck, in fact the reinforcement CF fiber rods have nothing to do with the stability of the neck horizontally (from bass to treble string) but only vertically (from the headstock to the 24th fret). What makes a stable neck and no matter which specie you are using, laminated or not is the fact that it should be properly seasoned and ideally perfectly quatersawn. Before using the wood, have you measured its internal moisture content? Also which is the ambient athmosphere of your workshop? Dont forget that walnut will also have a different expension and contraction point then the maple which means that if both woods are not properly seasoned you will eventually see one of them starting to move giving the impression of a low or high spot on the neck. Matching up woods thinking that the maple (or vis versa) will go to war when the walnut starts to move to try and fight back against it is hilarious (unfortunatelly this is how MANY people think) Matching up laminats together and adding CF rods will not help at all the stability of a neck if you dont follow the rules of seasoning and controlling the athmosphere - simple as that Hope this helps

holy hell, that guy kills me: "a lot of luthiers and guitar builders said it couldn't be done", lol! also, it sounds to me like it could just be feedback he's getting It is feedback, he probably set up his pickups really high up to add sustain!

That's about what I figured. Personally I'm firmly in the camp of "wood species and construction details don't matter too much as long as your building technique is solid". What the heck though, it's something fun and different. Also, I can always hype it up when I try to sell it: "ONE PIECE construction for ENDLESS SUSTAIN!!!!" its already been used as a marketing argument many times, frankly, if a brand tells you that a one piece brings more sustain and contributes to the tone, I would laugh my ass off! sustain and tone is soooooooo much more superior!!!!

You would need to experiment and build several one piece instruments in order to compare tone and get some real results... Eventually you will notice that a one piece guitar does not affect the tone of your instrument and wont contribute in anyways towards adding more sustain... Its just a big waist of mother nature but I did experiment several times this subject to make sure I could reply to this question one day

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Would be very cool to actually play on a guitar which had super high action right? A kahler requires either some neck angle or a less deeper neck pocket... This was a one piece guitar so unlike a neck thru you cant really add angle to the neck, so I recessed the bridge.

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nope, I import it directly from Oregon The Myrtlewood Tree is unique to two places in the world - The Holy Land and a small section of the Pacific Northwest. Most of the Oregon Myrtlewood grows from about Coos Bay, Oregon to San Francisco in California along the fog and rain dampened coastal area. When cut, the Myrtlewood yields some of the most varied colors and grain patterns to be found in a single species.

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good luck with your build I've myself built a bunch of "one piece guitars" in the past, here is one of them, the only pictures I can find...

+1.000000001

Just for the sake of it, try scribing the 2 lines then compare them to the centerline... The taper of your fingerboard could be a little different on each side and this will not show up on your laser... (reason why I dont recommend taking the centerline as a reference) I'm taking the reference of the picture on which you show the bridge, a nut would never make such an impact and put your bridge so off center.. And yeah that's a very badly cut nut, I agree I use a half pencil to transfer the radius and approximative final string heigh onto the nut...

maybe this can help... when I build, I never take reference on the centerline... I build the body and the neck, then I clamp the neck on top of the body and trace a line onto the body from each side of the neck. By shifting the neck, I then make sure that both lines are at the exact same distance from the centerline at the very end of the body (of a top for exemple)... Once its all set, I then take a very small pencil and scribe all around the neck poket aera - this will be the neck pocket which I will then route out... This technique never failed on me and I get dead on target results as opose to take reference on the centerline and route everything according to that which I used to do before. the 2 lines i'm talking about here i'm using them to center the pickups for exemple... PS: dont set the bridge yet, to correct your issue, you could try to shim up the neck pocket and re route it using the technique I just described. If well done you may not even notice the shim because in your case only a tiny bit is required to bring the neck back to the center...

The Hufschmid Mokingdroid A customer was wondering what would be my personal interpretation of a mokingbird... He also wanted the top to look as if it had been set on fire with a distressed look. Specifications: - one piece quatersawn sapelli body (intense ribbon figurine) - one piece quatersawn sapelli neck (intense ribbon figurine) - bookmatched highly figured candle shell eastern maple top. - west african ebony fingerboard, compound radius, 25.5'' scale and 24 frets. - planet wave auto trim tuning machines! - hipshot bridge with a special shorter low C saddle for extra compensation! - control buttons are solid ebony! - nut and string retainer are made from an exclusive material which I call blackdroidslip, this material puts to shame any high tech delrine and tusq stuff... - what the hell is the red button? nespresso, what else? - exclusive blackdroidslip nut and string retainer material - custom built hufschmid pickups handmade by my friend Kent Armstrong, this time with a matt finish. Here is a link to the customers NGD and more pictures of the making of, enjoy! http://www.8string.org/my-new-6-string-in-progress-t228.html sound: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cg0ojxQEJmA

Today I used the template which I built in the video... Could not get any more accurate then that, worked fantastic! I'm using a brand new stewmac Router bit,1/2" dia.

Nope!

I've used again True Oil on my new "firedroid" creation, about 6 coats and everytime I sanded between them using 600 grit (wet thype sandpaper), then at the very end I used 000 steel wool... Worked really nice and when you look close the finish is really even PS: I did not fill the pores on this creation.

Frets do not shrink, wood shrinks because its dropping its humidity content. I would be curious to know your ambient athmosphere, do you have a hygrometer? The only thing to do is to use a fine grit file and take off the excess sticking out on the fingerboard sides, then polish it all up with some 1200 grit.