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Our Souls inc.

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Everything posted by Our Souls inc.

  1. I brought it up because I have a Johnson bass neck ( maple ) with a skunk stripe *and* a rosewood FB. I just couldn't see a 'company' dong things the harder/more expensive way... so seeing both made no sense unless they already had a pile of skunk striped necks when they went to FB installing... its a good neck, just seems like extra work for nothing to me.
  2. Really?!?! Tell that to Ibanez....... Honestly, you're doing great from what I can see. you seem to be aware of the little minutia over having the neck waaaaay out of the body where fret access is easy Vs.having it set inside a bit where you'll have to reach for those last couple of frets. Just to make it even funnier - That LP up there is only 22 frets, the Ibby is 24, with better access. Go-o-o-o , bolt on !! You can use any bridge/pup combo you want if you plan it out first. Good luck, and happy building. quick edit : the holes can be filled and doweled, but you can always make a paper template of the neck heel with holes, then transfer it over to your neck pocket and drill matching holes. No new neck holes to drill. Or dowel and re-drill, just make sure you don't go through the neck.....
  3. so... the board is all radiused... it was much easier to do the 'step up' than I thought. I put a stainless steel shim in the 13th fret slot to stop the block from going too far up the neck , hogged out the initial 'step' with a rasp and then started sanding the radius. Got the nut to the 13th nice and rounded, I check with the fret press insert to verify radius, as well as a long straight edge for flatness. after I got that finished. I started on the upraised part, which was surprisingly easy. 13th- 22nd frets are just a tad lower than the fret crown will be. I'll be using white plastic strips to mark the fret locations on the upper frets. I'm also going to see how well my 'guide fret' setup works on a bass. So far its worked on every guitar I've attempted it on, straight string pull or not.
  4. Howdy, mates! This one is for my brother, who has not ponied up a penny of dough for the parts... He taught me how to play, so I'll build it for him anyway , but no funding + overtime at work = a long, drawn out build.... I'm back up n runnin tho - I've been cutting, rasping, sanding, clamping and routing my heart out for a few good days now. This bass, my bass and two guitars..... Gotta love having a wife who encourages you to build more .
  5. You know how you have to pay extra for air conditioning on a car? an 'option' ?... well, shielding is exactly like that. Sure, you don't need it , but isn't your ride worth having a bit of luxury in? 2 rolls of tape - 3/4" and 2" will shield the back of your PG and the entire cavity . 12 bucks for an extremely quiet guitar? well worth it in my stingy opinion... and I think you'll need to ground that shielding to make it effective. I do, but I'm just crazy like that...
  6. ... and 6 months later , here we are. I routed a truss channel and installed the rod and fretboard. Got the pickups sorted and tuners too. Will fret it soon and post up some pics. I'm hoping it'll be done in a month now.
  7. So I ended up with a 5 string Alvarez bass neck for roughly 30 dollars......... and some time. On a different note : whats up with their scarf joint ?!? That really looks like end-grain bonding, and right on the headstock. That's the 'best' way they could do it ?!?
  8. Not a lot to show on a re-rod... there's the nut. and a tighter shot of it and the shelf..... there's the sides........
  9. thats what i meant.... and I did the 'bend the top over the arm carve' method too......
  10. I disagree with the above advice and offer you another view point... Its doubtful to me that you're building that guitar for a "customer" or that you'll sell it with your name on the headstock... TBH, that mishap would require one of two repairs in my eyes... you can either "laminate" a very thin ( .070 ) strip of wood onto your neck heel or lam a small piece into the neck pocket. The pickup ring will all but cover that small nick. Just my opinion, but I'd just repair and continue........
  11. I try to scrape off excess glue while it's wet too. Its easier to get rid of it now than once its dried up. That headstock shape is quite sick too.
  12. especially if you ignite the lighter fluid once its good and soaked in.
  13. Yes, it's a comfort thing.... I had an explorer that was a pain in the arm after about 1/2 hr onstage. Came to find out that it was the 'sharp' edge of the body's upper wing. When I built mine, I put some relief there, sorta rounded it a bit like a strat body so my right arm has a spot to rest, not a sharp ledge. I put a tummy cut in the back too. saved a bit of weight and made it a tad more comfy.
  14. and take some weight off i did ! I ended up with 1.8 POUNDS ( about 816 grams ) of sawdust in a bag and I'm sure I left the other .2 lbs on the floor - I didn't chase every crumb, just swept up the big stuff. That was just from the chambering of the body. As for the neck, I did a double truss rod rout which lightened it up a tad, until I installed two rods and the fretboard. I'm going to radius the board today and shape the back once I fret it.
  15. It the 'wobble' sends the upper wing towards your body , that'll work out to your advantage. Flatten the back ( use a straight-edge to check things out ) and you're good to go. If its warped the other way - toward the audience - I'd say plane it flat and if you lose too much thickness, you can always add a top. pics help, but even info , like how much the cup is and which way or what part of the body its on, can help make better offerings for solutions.
  16. I always thought it was an either/or thing... why would a company do both? Any benefits??? It doesn't seem very cost effective........ unless they just happen to have a surplus of neck-blanks already skunk-striped and then decided to add fretboards ??
  17. The final decision on this is a 12 fret board with a raised area from 12 - 22. Its a multi-scale neck and its getting medium frets. I glued the board to the neck today. I'll unclamp and radius it tomorrow. pics when shes done.
  18. epoxied in the stewmac rod today per their instructions. Will reattach the FB tomorrow. Pics upon completion.
  19. well, its tuned to the same pitch as a Bass guitar so, baritone, bass, call it what you will its a work in progress..... I've definitely ventured into the "guitar" range with the extra high string and the octave strings. The first fret board I layed out and slotted is a 724 - 762mm fan . I figure getting that high E on a 28.5" scale will be easier than with a 30" , vice-versa for the low E. will post results once complete.
  20. I can honestly say that if you plan it out right, you can make almost any tremolo unit work on almost any guitar. I think theres a youtube vid of a Floyded acoustic somewhere. Before you rout for a trem tho, do you use it enough to justify all the wood removal/expense? I've done up a few tremolo guitars now and the tremolo's themselves really dont see much action. I guess the whammy bar is like a flanger unit... you think it'll be great, you get one, doink with it a bit and discover you'll hardly ever use it......
  21. I just scored two spalted Elm boards for 19.99.......... Thay are book matched, and 7/8" X 16" X 33.5" . each. I'm going to do a guitar and bass that match each other I guess. If I play my cards right, I might get 4 tops out of it.
  22. Wez, you think it'll ever see any action like this? : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Onqzua4bRHY&feature=player_embedded#!
  23. Thanks for the reply - I figure there will be some trial and error , but it's a bolt-on neck design, so I can always experiment with different scale lengths until I figure out which one works best for me. That string gauge range you provided gives me a huge insight towards the gauges and their tension at length just comparing yours @ a 30" scale to my 4 string gauges @ a 34" scale. I can see how the thinner strings when shorter, arrive at the same note, but with a different ( slightly ) tone. So tension and tone will be the key factors in my final outcome. Thanks again for the reference.
  24. I'm not one of us who have all that scale length knowlege down-pat yet. My current build is a bass, 6 string - and I want to tune it one octave lower than a standard guitar, like the Fender 30" scale basses. My question lies in the scale length and string gauge I should be going for. It'll be tuned E-E with the high B and E having octave strings with them. I'm thinking of 32" for a scale length, but I'm afraid I'll have problems getting the high E tuned up at 32" long. Should I do a multi-scale - ? 30 and 32 with a 7th parallel fret sound doable? or should I do a 27 - 30" fan ? Any advice will be appreciated - I'm still in the body glue-up phase. I have a few days to ponder it.....
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