DrummerDude

Can't get shorter bits where I live. Is making the template thicker the only possibility? Any other methods? Thanks!

I am using common router bits that would cut too "deep". Not very suitable for the routing cavities on a guitar. In other words their cutting edge is too long. The template is quite thin too, so it doesn't help at all. I saw several tutorials on Ste Mac's site but they all suggested that one should put shims between the template and the plank. I can't do that and be sure that everything would be fine.

Hi guys, I was wondering if there is a simple way to make the distance between the wood blank and your routing template adjustable without losing any accuracy. I am not talking about putting shims between the template and the blank - this bears the risk of accidentally displacing the template and messing up the cavities. Are there any jigs or devices that you like to use for this job? Share your methods, please. Thanks!

I made such stain an year ago. It needs time. I used crystalized vinegar acid that I dissolved in water. (crystalized vinegar acid is used for cooking here). Even though the solution was really strong and concentrated, it took the acid 5 days to dissolve the steel wool. The result was a dark gray liquid. I never used it on wood, though. I gave away the idea since it looked and smelled bad. If you leave it for more than a week, it will become grey/white and a clump of hard white carbide (or something like that) will form at the bottom. Just buy wood stain from the DIY store.

Hello, mates! One year after my latest post I'm back in the guitarbuilding world. It's time to get Telecaster crazy again. I am working on an AutoCad routing file at the moment. That file will be used with a laser-cutter to make a precise MDF template for my infamous Telecaster. I am using the measurements from the pics below for the pickup cavities. Should I make the cavities with the exact dimensions of the pickups so they would fit tightly and snugly in the cavities or should I make them a little bit wider? If yes, what extra space should be left around the pickup? Pic1 Pic2 Pic3 Also the bridge pickup from Pic1 has an extra plate under it that makes its overall size a little bit bigger than the bridge pickup from Pic2. Should I make the pickup cavity according to the larger one from Pic1? Pickups of what of these two kinds are more popular or even better? Thanx!

Yes. That's it. I hate Wizard necks, they are so damn flat and your thumb feels really uncomfortable sliding on a flat plank and it feels even more horrible when you have to do some chord work. Funny thing is some people find those Ibanez Wizard necks amazing.

Thanks for your replies, guys. weezerboy, you know your stuff, man. :

What are this guitar's make and model? It might be a Washburn judging by the blurred inscription on the headstock. I couldn't find such a model on their official web site, though.

The neck-through blank alone weighted 18 pounds?!

What do you think about using an all ebony neck on your axe? (not just the fingerboard, the whole neck!) Would it kill the sound and make it too cold and lifeless because of its hardness? Anyone have experience with ebony necks? Do they exist in reality?

First (not so cool) idea: Use fake leather again. Chose one that is more pleasant looking. Second idea: Use flamed maple veneer and do a transparent or a sunburst finsih on the amp. : Third idea: Use large chromed metal plates to cover the head. Make it look rally metal. \m/ Fourth idea: Use airbrushing to make a camo finish.

Well, seems that there is a huge trend of using KNOTTED pine. And knots + pine = cracks. No matter what quality of pine you use, it will crack around the knots. Yo may use no-heartwood-pine, but if it is knotted, it will still crack and that's for sure. Maybe we should do a research on how to prevent pine from cracking. And maybe the guys who are into building pine body guitars use somekind of stabilizers (except the veneer laminates).

I have like 1,000 more examples of pine getting cracked too easily.

Man, I am saying this for the third time: I have a guitar with a pine body, laminated from both sides. The pine body cracked even though the laminates were holding it inbetween. At least they prevented it from completely falling apart.

Count me in. My finish won't be too knotty because I'll use a 5-6 mm thick layer of maple top veneer on both sides of the body. Otherwise the pine would simply fall apart. By the way, I have an idea. What about using inner crack protectors? "What is an inner crack protector?", you'd ask. Well I just invented it Have a look at the pic I made. The body is drilled from its side all along its width. Then several hard wood bars (made of maple, beech, oak) are stuck tightly in the holes and glued. The two layers of maple top are applied as well, of course. This would 100% protect the pine body from cracking. What do you think? I know, im a genius.

Haha, this is awesome news! I am trying to make a Classic Telecaster and getting a good one-piece ash or alder blank is a problem for me. Now that I know the truth about the very first Telecasters, I'm going to build this one out of PINE! You know that there is one problem, though. The body will crack. PS: Does anybody know if any of those antique pine Esqures survived till nowadays without cracking?

I could. I have a guitar made of pine. In my case - yes, I'm using my real life knowledge because I have a pine guitar, for freak's sake! Hell, yes. it will crack and that's for sure. Whoever wants to build a pine guitar, apply a thick maple top and you'll be fine. Well, in most cases. My guitar cracked under the two layers of maple. Once again: pine is a good cheap tonewood. but it WILL crack.

I have an electric Kremona that is made of pine. It is light as a feather, very comfortable because of its weight. The sound is bright, pretty damn sharp for a guitar with a really soft wood body as contrary to the muddy, unclean sound of my basswood Ibanez (basswood is damn soft too). No it's not a joke - my cheap as hell pine Kremona has a better sound than the sh*tty Ibanez. The big problem with pine is that it cracks easily. The dudes from Kremona topped the pine body with two 3 mm thick layers of maple veneer (one on the front pannel and one over the bottom, so the pine body is inbetween, it's a sandwich-like construction) The idea of the Kremona guys was to prevent the pine body from cracking and to protect its soft surface from getting dinged. Still, the mample veneers didn't help much and I had to fix a serious crack that almost halved the body apart. In conclusion: Pine has a great sound for a cheap wood. Even more - it has a great sound for a really soft wood. it is light and thus makes good guitars for playing live. BUT! It is very likely to crack.

Don't forget to take pics of his workshop

RGGR, you're right. I dumped the exact copy idea because it seems that I can't find a 50's Tele plan. I am using Warmoth & Fender info and measurements at the moment. Still don't have the width of the neck socket at it's upper end. After I get it from somewhere, I'll start building the guitar. By the way, does anyone here know how to accomplish the finish on the pics below? I saw this body on eBay and I loved the transparent green finish. And that mirror shine on the back of the body is just totally amazing! I enhanced the color of the pics using PhotoShop to make them look even cooler than the original ones. Check them out: Is it possible to make such a cool finish at home?

javacody, I am no longer after one of those models (50's & 60's) Couldn't find any information about the essential measuerements of the old classics. Now I am working on a "modern" sized Telecaster, using measurements and information from Warmoth (the plan I made myself is completely based on photos, diagrams and dimensions, taken from both Fender and Warmot sites). Seems that it will turn out to be an exact modern Fender copy at the end (or a Warmoth copy, if you prefer ) Now it is template making time. What would be better: use a whole body template with all the routing cavities on it OR severall small templates for the different routes (bridge pickup, neck pickup, neck socket, etc.) instead? Thank you for all your support, people!

Thank you, Greg. I will need an accurate plan to make the templates. I like to believe that my plan is pretty precise now (thanks to the Warmoth info pages) Now I will need some extra info on building a good template. Forum search is my first option. Meanwhile links to sites that show the process of making a decent template are much appreciated. Thanks!

Problem - solved. http://www.warmoth.com/guitar/necks/necks....fuseaction=heel

Makes sense, I wish I could do that too but unfortunately I don't have any templates because I don't have a plan to make them after. Actually I do have one, but I need it checked by someone who has a Tele and is willing to help.

Thanks guys. Seems that you got me wrong. I am not touchy and I am not angry at anyone. I'm just looking for help & advices. This topic needs to be focused on the making of a Tele plan and I want people to have a look at the plan I made and share their opinions about it. Please, keep off-topics off. (Metric vs imperial is a great subject to discuss but I'd be thankful if you guys open a new topic and we will talk abaout this there. Same goes for PhotoShop tricks) You are right, seems that making an EXACT copy of a vintage Telecaster is not possible at all, so long live Warmoth. My plan is made after a pic of one of their bodies anyway. I will reconsider the idea of buying a neck before having the body done. Still, the thought of buying it and then being unable to make a body for it is making me really nervous. I'll try to practice on scrap wood, hope that this helps develop some routing skills. Yes, an alternative and much easier way would be to simply scale the whole plan, so that the neck pocket cavity reaches the original dimensions of a Warmoth neck heel. Then I will have a very precise plan and (hopefully) template which will help me build a very close duplicate of their bodies without the risk of buying a neck. Sounds great, but I still need those original measurements. And that's why I posted this image, requesting info on the dimensions. If you have a Warmoth Telecaster neck, please measure it's heel and share the results. Thanks!