MiKro
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Everything posted by MiKro
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So now that the top is glued up, I realize that I should have put some radius in the braces. Knowing that radiused braces may be called for, I was hoping that flat might work. Not what I hoped for, they did cave some, so after testing this for bass response the next prototype will have some radius put in to the top braces to counter that problem. It does have a nice tap tone though. Next to add a neck and figure the bridge location for sound test and bass response improvement. then on to the Proto #2 mk
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Ok top repair done and into the vac bag. using about 11inches of vacuum to keep deformation down. MK
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HA!! I fixed my vac bag problem. It had a small leak. OOPS, I pulled down too much vacuum during a test and sucked the top in. LOL!!!! Too funny. Now to repair that, it cracked the sound port as it pulled it inwards. Easy fix though and now I know only to pull about 13-14 inches of vacuum. LMAO!! That was too funny watching it cave in, wish there had been a camera on my face, I am sure it was priceless watching me crap myself while flipping valves to relieve the pressure. mk
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Sitting around today debating on the top repair. After removing it and all, the center glue line is a real problem. So I put it on the back burner for a while. Today I was going through my small item wood stash and found some super nice snake wood scraps. I think it will make a very nice center line between the two top sections. Be safe all. MK
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I also "Know Nothing" One thing I do know is I can find the answer if I need it. Either it is stored in my scatter brained mind or it is archived somewhere else. LOL!!
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Mike, you also have a great amount of knowledge, don't ever for get that. Thank for your support in boosting an old mans ego as well. LMAO!!!! MK
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My wealth of knowledge. That could be you saying, I am old and wise. ROTFLMAO!!!
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Dammit quit trying to make me feel old. LOL!!!
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That is correct.
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Yes the direction of the fiber.
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That is what I order. They are called strips when I order them, not rods, those are a different part and round. There are different types as well depending on the layup type for the fiber. some are better than others. need to look at uni-lateral layup.
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I use carbon fiber strips in my necks. 6 string guitars get a pair of 1/8" x 5/16" strips. Bass necks get 3/16" x 3/8" strips.
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To be honest, a 400mhz would most likely be better for what I need to do. I will be using a Piezo accelerometer to measure vibrations with as well as a mic for sound frequency. Since the Piezo is high impedance, to get the best clip of the wave as it is triggered it would be better. I will make do with what I have though. mk
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So the temp back is cut from 1/4" ply. now to other stuff. MK
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Damn, my Old Tek 420a Oscillosope died the other day. The Power supply just crapped itself. Parts are non existent. I bought a new Siglent digital 100mhz scope. I found a hack for it to make it a 200mhz scope. Saves me a few hundred dollars. mk
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Here is the only thing I can find at the moment. MK guitar_plan_beast.pdf
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That was most likely Metal Matt that put many up. Most were not accurate. Matt was a nice guy and always tried to help though.
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I know the pictures suck. LOL!! Doing as well as expected Mike, thanks for asking we are staying out of trouble and away from others. mk
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Here is the only thing I have for an Iceman as far as 2d. iceman_profile.pdf
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Me too Scott, I am sure it will be interesting at the least. Hell it may be a total bust? Nothing gained if I don't try though. MK
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As life has changed everyone lately, I managed to get in the shop today and remove the back of the CTH acoustic hybrid. I now only have to make a temp back that will be held on by 20 screws so I have the ability to remove it and test processes to improve bass response. I will be using a calibrated mic and TrueRTA analyzer software combined with my oscilloscope to produce (hopefully) the best response for this body volume and size. I know the pictures suck. LOL!! Thanks MK
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No I would not route a piece of wood without knowing if it has metal. Even on my saw or cnc. The blades or endmills costs and peace of mind make buying the tool to detect metal well worth it. That is why they make a tool to locate metal in wood. It is the same wand as used by the TSA to check your body for metal at the airports. just my 0.02 cents worth on this. MK -
I don't use stain in lacquer only dye. I do not use any stain at all, only dyes. Yes I spray only as well.
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@Bizman62 answered the stain question. I use dye mixed with clear coat as to get an even color. I sometimes use dye to the wood like a stain. I always first seal the wood with a few coats of lacquer first so that the dye or stain does not blotch. The shellac sets a depth barrier so to speak allowing for a consistent color on the wood.
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I would first say stop at 400 to 600grit. 800 at the most before you spray the lacquer. Good adhesion needs some tooth for it to stick. You can then sand the lacquer to finish once it is on and cured. Also I would use a dye to mix with the lacquer not a stain. Something like Transtint or an aniline dye. mk
