MiKro

12 minutes ago, ScottR said:

 

Well, I went through the hill country on the way in and out, but I was referring to the Rocky Mountains. I spent a few days a little north of @killemall8's neighborhood in Santa Fe and Taos New Mexico and then headed up to my son's place in Denver after a stop in the Great Sand Dunes National Park. I'm pretty sure that wasn't a national park the last time I was there. We took the grand kids to Rocky Mountain National Park and the next day headed back down hill. We came out of the mountains across the llano estacado, (staked plains.....don't know why they call them that, most folks would call them the high plains) then down off the caprock and through the hill country and finally into the coastal plains where I live.

SR

Like I said some refer to the panhandle as High country, it has always been high plains to me and drops off the caprock as you said. Llano is around the Austin area and South of Hico. If any one ever says that the caprock and highplains is flat I laugh at them because they have never walked any of it. I can show you a place at the Matador Wildlife management area in the Northwest back corner that is at min an 800ft elevation change in less than a square mile of distance. LOL

mk

3 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

I'm not familiar with the high country, is that a mountainous region in Texas?  >snip<

High country in Texas can refer to two regions that I am aware of. The panhandle area in North West Texas or the Mountainous area in the Big Bend area.

The Hill country area is South of DFW and encompasses a large area including Austin and surrounding areas. It starts around Hico.

Also, When using a heat blanket put it on the inside of the wood side wall, otherwise you may have ribbed pattern show up in the wood that is very hard to sand out.

MK

On 8/20/2021 at 1:23 PM, KeysNGuitar said:

Hey All.  

A friend of mine has a nice CNC with which he uses VCarve.   He has used it some but still learning.  Do any of you happen to have VCarve or Aspire file for making a radiused sanding block?  I am making my first guitar and I am going to radius the neck to 12".  I purchased an 8" long sanding block from StewMac but would really like to make some of my own instead of pay so much.  I couldn't afford the Aluminum (or Aluminium for you Brits!  ) so I opted for the cheaper one made from wood.   It  would be exponentially cheaper if I could just make my own but I haven't been successful.  His CNC is very nice.  So, the real question is does anyone have a file for VCarve or Aspire you would be willing to share so my friend can import it into his computer and get the G Code?   Lookin for 12" radius initially but would certainly love to have multiples.

Thanks in advance!
Chris

 

I have Aspire as well as Rhino7, fusion360 and some others. If you want a sanding block with a 12" radius for Vcarve it will need to be an STL file so It can be imported for your friend to cut it. 

Here I made you a 14"L x 3"W x 3/4"D    12" radius sanding block STL file for you to have your friend cut for you

MK

12inchsandingblock.zip

Does it come with a summing board as each pickup is wired indepenantly like a Graphtech ghost system  bridge if I am correct? If not then you will also need one of those so as to use it as a single pickup or split it out to the preamp. The summing board allows you to use each as a midi channel as well, depending on what is the intended purpose  by the user.

I would research it with LR Baggs and also look at the Graphtech ghost system for more info. Just my thoughts on it without looking deeply into the bones of it all.

MK

17 minutes ago, JayT said:

Actually I really did ... I also really like Scarlet Johansson, sadly both are beyond my reach at this point. Good news is that one day I may be able to do your suggestions. Not likely on the other front

You know I was just gigging you. They are sound plans, While your abilities are where you question yourself. Kudos for knowing your limitations at this point in time. Your advancement will continue as you go.

Mike

4 minutes ago, JayT said:

>snip< 

but for sure I'm not going to try and repair this with any wood ties or scarf joint.

>snip<

I see you really liked my suggestions. LOL

mk

Not really, many ways to attack that issue. You could just wick glue in it and good clamping. Not the best solution.

You could do inlays or inset wood stringers on both sides so it looks planned and fixes the problem.

You could cut off the end using a scarf joint and re-glue a new piece on and reshape the heel.

There are other ways as well, just slow down and plan the attack, then make it so.

MK 

Good luck. Looks interesting.

mk

Absolutely Stunning Scott.

KUDO's to you sir.

Mike

I would have done a 30* Vcarve for the f-holes, then used a reverse vcarve inlay. Then done the actual f-hole cutout leaving some of the contrasting inlay as the border line

That's just the way I would have approached it. LOL

Looking good Mike!!!

MK

@Bizman62 is correct. YOU should spray poly in the way they advise on the can so as it is to stay somewhat wet without runs, it is a film type clear coat. It is unlike lacquer, which is a solvent type and will blend/etch itself chemically with the previous layer.

Poly and 2k must dry if not adhering to the correct procedure. Then you have to sand it so there are scratches /sanding marks (tooth) for the next layer to adhere to. ( not the best method as it may peel later).

mk

19 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

well that's a nice idea (brass tube).  Good option to know about, thanks for that.  I think I'll try the simple approach first on my 'test' build and depending on how secure that sits... 

Or use thick walled aluminum tubing. Brass would allow you solder to it if needed.

mk

10 hours ago, mistermikev said:

for the record... found the tap size and ordered one, and ordered the jacks too.  i have zero tap experience so q: when they say 9/16-12 tap... do you cut a 9/16" hole first and then tap?  or do you have to cut a hole smaller than 9/16 to tap?  anyone know?

No the tap should have instructions as to what size drill bit to use. If not then look it up. there are plenty of Tap to drill bit size charts on the net. Some wil list if wood vs metal. another option would be to insert a thick walled brass tube glued in then tap that.

mk

So looking through this thread, it is a cool idea.

I wonder though if a Cockroft Walton Voltage multiplier would be a better choice for getting to the voltage needed instead of the transformer? It would save space  and weight while accomplishing the same thing?  By using  the CWVM type of ladder whether half wave or full wave bridge rectification is used, you would have multiple points for lower voltages for heater filament or other needs.

You could also gate it if needed as well using something like an IR2153 IC using half wave bridges. This would allow to invert the Vdc and also pulse it if needed. Just a thought?

Also maybe use a thinner top or bottom plate and no speaker. Instead use a plate exciter instead to make the top or bottom act as the speaker?

Any way cool thread and nice looking.

mk

That appears to be more of what I would guess as stress/flex induced with mineral deposits? It runs with the grain of the wood. It looks as though it came from a large limb that moved a lot in the wind. It is not ambrosia stain, otherwise you would find small bug holes and they would be at many different angles. to any surface. Also the color is wrong for ambrosia stains.

juts my 0.02cents worth.

mk

3 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said:

I park it round the front of the house now anyway because I went out to it the other day and it was covered in tree sap  we're surrounded by a tone of tall Ash trees. The vent and the parking situation was always a consideration though. 

I get that, I have a large Pecan tree that I park under. The squirrels use my truck for target practice when they shit while they eat the pecans.

Little bastards.

MK

Just remember to move the car or you may have over spray from the vent.

mk

Hi All,

I'm playing around the idea of a CBG guitar. 3 string.

Have started the neck design. Most do not use a truss rod. I am thinking about using a 1/4" carbon fiber rod inserted from the back side with a skunk stripe. I know over time even 3 strings will change the neck.

What are your thoughts of putting the carbon fiber rod in with an arched/radius route that induces some back bow?

How much arch or radius is where I am at currently? I am thinking somewhere in the 60 ft radius range similar to the back of an acoustic guitar.

Any thoughts on this idea is appreciated.

MK

1 hour ago, Bizman62 said:

If you're talking the non slip/anti slip mats they sell for various purposes, I've been in the belief that they actually are made of PVC and that the plastic softeners are the cause of many issues. PVC folders are known to melt the text off photocopies and laser printings - not surprising since the "ink" is actually plastic powder fastened with heat.

No I had one that was a silicone mat with little like half balls on the surface. I bought it from Woodcraft. It went into the trash after that problem showed itself.

mk

I don't like silicone for this reason. Years down the line it will discolor your wood. Silicone has oil in it and eventually it will creep to the surface.

Years ago they made these little balls to space a cabinet door panel in the mortise edges. A few years later you could see where each ball was in the face frame of the door. 

They also made a silicone mat for wood working that had little nubs all over it to act as a stable surface for hand routing. Well I used one so as not to have a body slide around while hand routing ( Pre CNC days). When I applied a finish the spots showed up even though I had sanded and cleaned the body.

This taught me not to use silicone anywhere wood is being used with a natural look.

Just my 0.02 cents .

MK

I made this some years ago.

Jet Jons Jag.

Build here:

SPECS:

3 piece Alder body

Maple Neck, EIR Fretboard 34" scale Tele Headstock

Jag bass redesign by my self.

All redesign, cnc cut by me and finish work by hand.

Finish was done with lacquer and 2 k clear coat.

BadAss 2 bridge,

EMG active pickups w/ three volumes and one master volume control

Hipshot tuners, 1 is a Drop D

Banjo Frets,  (the harmonics on this are a beast)

Sorry I lost many pictures in a HD Crash, so this is the best I have at present, had to get the owner to get me some.. LOL!!! Pictures from the owner John, Gigging ones are the owner in his Brian Adams Tribute band. This thing rocks. The first Bass I ever built. I let the owner finish sand the hand, arm and belly carve to suit him.

Looking Great as usual Drak.

mk

I vote "NO".

If it is 50 years old and well used it will show its character. Even then I have seen very old instruments that show very little wear because they were hardly used and properly stored.

Adding relic or distress indications of ageing do nothing to enhance the instrument other than possibly inflating the ego of the player or owner.

Just my 0.02 cents worth.

Peace ,

mk

.

The green eyed jealous type she is huh!! Well, Wally must be on the watch for that to fire up now and again. LOL!!!

Give her Red hair and then watch the fireworks. LMAO!!!!

Just saying.  

mk

1 hour ago, sgt.peppards said:

Oh dear...any advice on how to get out of this pickle!?

I recently bought a very nice strat neck and some Kluson trad 6 inline tuners to fit.

I pre drilled the holes for the tuners and whilst fitting the scews ...two of them sheared in half,

leaving half of the screw buried in the neck. This happened quite effortlessly with out really

applying too much pressure whilst screwing the screws (Kluson...hmmm ...nice tuners, crap screws!)

My idea was to carefully drill around (with a tiny drill bit) to remove the screws, and then wood plug

the holes, and start again (once the tuners are fitted, they would cover up this abomination...as for

resonance/tone ..who knows??)

Any other methods/approach's that would not involve leaving a great F****** hole to be plugged

would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

Use a brass tube slightly oversize of the screw and make teeth in it so as to use it like a plug cutter/small hole saw