Blurry pic sorry. side panels cut out.

MK

So I built a small velleman amp for the arcade today. It will power the speakers. Was cheaper to buy the kit than just order the parts and start from scratch. So It is now all soldered up and ready to go. 2x5 watt, 12VDC.   LOL

MK

1 hour ago, MiloszM said:

Sub-d? something new going on in rhino. Great!

I tried grasshoper twice but my brain got overheated.

You are making great guitar shapes - balanced, thoughtful, personal

 

 

 

Sub-D is like T splines but on steroids. It is actually in R6 latest version, sort of watered down and hidden. you can access it by using the subd command in the command line in R6

mk

Oh you mean one of these? I am still working on the model so I can CNC it.

Carving it is easy. LOL!!! Just had to mess with ya!! 

MK

52 minutes ago, MiloszM said:

sorry, Just wanted to ask you if you tried Grasshopper pluggin for rhino?

It s a gereat soft for parametric desugn. People are designing buildings in it so maybe a guitarr>>?

 

Yes I also use Grasshopper as well as other plugins, I have upgraded to Rhino 7 so I also now will be using sub-d.

This is looking great Matt.

I have started designing one in Rhino  awhile back for my son-in-law. need to get back to it.

The start of the top in rhino.

MK

6 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

looks pretty interesting should be fun to see it come to life. 

what sort of construction are you doing?  The one my friend has it actually looks like they built it out of black malamine and then just do vinyl graphic over them.  seems like they used typical industrial edge-banding(nurse stations and lunch tables) to do the rubber/plastic edges.

what are you doing for front/top panel and light up? 

Have not gotten that far yet. Most likely a clear plexi panel over the monitor with black paint on back side to cover all except the screen. The control panel will be most likely black plexi.and the rest I may do something like a weathered look with laser engraved stuff.  

I am not going to spend the $$$ for the Art /graphic wraps.  

MK

HI all,

Something a little different in the shop.

I am making a Retro Bartop Arcade from scratch. Using an older 5:4 ratio LCD 19" monitor, with Sanwa controls, an ATX PC type power supply and a 60 in 1 Jamma Board.

First test in demo mode with no controls look promising.

Next is to design and build the cabinet.. Still in rough design mode.

MK

@mistermikev,

This is looking good Mike. You are doing very well so far with the cnc and learning. Your learning curve is getting smaller each day.

I commend you. Many take a long a time to master where you are. While I am not saying you are at a master level yet, you are gaining ground on these areas. Keep up the learning and questions

Mike.

I would have carved a horned owls head in there.

MK

2 hours ago, mistermikev said:

well.... this was my "i don't care if I ruin it" piece... as it is the least attractive of all 4 I bookmatched.  Still mounted on the machine and machine is at the zero... just not touching it till I get new bits... then i will alter my toolpath based on the new bit size... and re-cut everything - she should be fine as I cut these slots a little thin with the plan to revisit them with the fret saw..  I will be using one of the other one's for either build as the wood is a better match, but am hoping this one makes it through fine for some future build.    

with this bit.... the speed was set to 3 in/min.  the depth was set to .03.  router was running at 18k.  if I bumped the speed up to 5in/min... break a bit.  These were just test bits... uxcell (not exactly synonymous with quality), so didn't have high expectations (they were cheap).  I've ordered a few kyocera from drillman and one from precise bits as well... should be here thursday.  I'm guessing I will up my speed to 10 in/min, double my depth... and start there.  Could probably raise up the spin to 24k... i dunno.

Mike speed up the IPM to about 10-12 and change the DOC to about 0.010 max maybe even 0.005"

You can actually do it in one pass at full depth if you have the know how. but that requires hand writing the Gcode for every part of it. Even I still have problems with that one. It requires a slow ramping in acceleration and speed with the correct ramp i. Then once cutting it will require a ramped acceleration to the feed speed all with the correct spindle rpm.  A very tedious task. I know only a few that have made it work and they won't give away there code secrets.

MK

What end mills are you using for the fret slots?

What Feed, speed and DOC?

Not sure why you started on a good fret board?. Always test  new processes on scrap first.

Mike

17 minutes ago, ADFinlayson said:

That makes a lot of sense, I'm still very new to this and haven't really figured out who my target audience is yet. Just a bit frustrating that I've got nearly 500 followers on my facebook page and not one of them wants to buy my guitar 

@ADFinlayson  May I suggest you check with some of the Doctor/Surgeons in your area. Many like to play as it keeps there hands and fingers nimble. Dentist are another group that applies there hands as well.

Just thinking outloud.

Very old post that has been resurrected for some reason?

Looks good, I do have one question though.

It appears that you are using pipe for the bender. I hope that is NOT GALVANIZED pipe? If it is please be aware that heating galvanized pipe can be very deadly. The fumes from the galvanization burning off is very poisonous and deadly.

MK

Best I can do for you.

Another thing is this when cutting the edge of the center line with your CNC do each edge on the opposite side of your cutter. This will take in account any possible tramming issues in that axis. Similar to cutting a piece in two if that makes since?

MK

cut.pdf

look at shars.com. cutting tools square end mills go to bottom of the left side for lengths

https://www.shars.com/products/cutting/end-mills?cutting_diameter=1%2F4&end_mill_category=Square+End&overall_length=4

even though the flute lengths are only 1". so It is imperative that you are trammed correctly. I use the 3 " in 1/8" Ball nose for drilling through holes  on hardtail bodies

mk

I have 4" end mils in 1/8" and 1/4" and a 6" in 1/2" diameter it all depends on the flex of the machine and the tramming..

MK

47 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

that is a very interesting idea.  lot of potential from that one trick.

I have been at this for a long time Grasshopper.

If the join looks wonky when done, use the 30* again on the line very faintly and fill with pearl powder and clear epoxy or CA.

mk

1 hour ago, mistermikev said:

that is a very interesting idea.  I think it would be a little more work so might not use it for this... but I could see some very cool applications for combining maple with wenge or other colored binding.  Def putting that in my trick bag for later - thank you for mentioning!! 

Just a little knowledge that can make a project go from very nice to wow.

another thing you can do is dye the insert first, then it is easy to dye the inside edge after it is cut out as binding without the problems of bleed.

mk

You can always do the f-hole binding this way. Using a 30* v-bit, carve the f-holes to size. Now using the same v-bit make male inserts that glue in (inverse of original v-carve). Once done use a standard end mill to cut the edge binding by the offset needed.

Here is a PDF file that shows the dimensions of v-bit cutters from a side view.

MK

V-Bit Chart.pdf

24 minutes ago, killemall8 said:

Yes tried 3 different brands and 3 different gauges. Obviously the heavier gauges help in standard tuning because there is more tension, but other than that, no difference.

That is F'd up.

1 hour ago, PRSpoggers said:

I am torn between either luthiery just being a hobby or making it into a career. I could work at PRS guitars since I live 45 minutes away from it, but I want to make money so I can thrive in life. What is my best path?

Go to school, get a Masters degree minimum in a field that is useful. "Not Art". Make guitars as a hobby, enjoy the $$$ and life.

We had a guy here on PG, that had his Phd in Astro Physics. He worked for the Carnegie Melon Institute of Technology and the Smithsonian. He was one of the first persons to discover that water was in the moon rocks we brought back in the 60s. He built some beautiful guitars.

Or follow the path of guitars, Like PGs own Rhoads56 Now known as Ormsby Guitars.

mk

I have used birdseye before, No problem. Now think about Fender. They used flat sawn boards for necks with a skunk stripe. Think about what I just said.

mk