guitar101

OK once again.. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/bugl...dreRockoval.jpg

That thing is funky. What kind of electronics are those? I've never seen anything like that before. There seems to be something wrong with the link. Here is a thumbnail from photo bucket. <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/bugla/WandreRockoval.jpg" border="0" alt="Wandrie Rock Oval"></a> http://www.vintageguitar.com/features/bran...ls.asp?AID=1074 Here is a link to some pages that give some info on these guitars. The neck is made of a special aluminum called duraluminum. The pickups were made by Davolis according to the article. I love the design it's unusual but looks in harmony. This guitar is a piece of art IMHO. http://www.vintageguitar.com/features/bran...ls.asp?AID=1074 http://www.professorposter.com/guitarch.htm

This has to be the most unusual without being gaudy guitar I have ever seen. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e82/bugl...dreRockoval.jpg

Great go for it.

Ever think about reconditioned tools. Here is a link to a Rigid fixed base/ plunge router. Only $20 more than the craftsman fixed base. .My brother owns an air conditioning business and he's bought reconditioned tools. He has had good luck . http://www.cpoprotools.com/products/zrr29301.html Here is a review.. http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/RidgidR29...rKitReview.html http://woodworking.about.com/od/routers/gr...idRouterKit.htm

30 Degrees Farenheit is below freezing. Seems to me you have to heat your garage. If you turn off the heat when you are finished working the moist air that rises is condensing on the ceiling and as the temperature drops it freezes. To my way of thinking if you let the inside temperature drop below freezing it doesn't matter how much insulation you have it doesn't do a darned thing. I live in Northern Ontario so our winters get very cold. I have R-45 in the ceiling and R20 in the walls of my attached garage that I built this summer. I keep my cars outside since this is going to be my workshop. Like Godzilla I keep it at about 55 degrees unless I am working. Do you have a concrete floor?? Heating and cooling a concrete floor can cause it to crack. Better to keep it at a constant temperature.

Pretty boring without the link. Here it is.. http://www.liutaiomottola.com/construction...#mozTocId462543

Here is a link I came across. I was looking for info on bolt on necks for acoustics and thought this would be a good site to share.

I once saw a Volkswagon beetle which had the front fenders done in Comic book covers. Looked like they were some how clear coated over. Looked great.

How do I get there?

Try the Staedtler pen. I'ts not that difficult and you letting the Sharpie script dry overnight??

Try these markers. http://www.staedtler.ca/Lumocolor_permanen...en_gb.Staedtler I clear coated over my initials on a Strat I assembled using Minwax Poly. No problem. They are more permanent than Sharpies and I let it dry over night. Use a light coat of Poly first let it dry then spray as usual.

Just wondering if you solved the problem.

SO... I can have 3/8"-1/2" sides & back, and it wouldn't effect the overall sound because the acoustic part is driven by the vibrations of the top. The sides/back of an acoustic are braced because of the thickness (or lack thereof) of the wood. Therefore I can have an 1/8" top and not have to worry about bracing, right? The only caveat is that I cannot have a block under the bridge because it'd dampen the vibrations. If I have thicker back & sides and a thin top WITHOUT a block under the bridge, what does that do in regards to the security of the bridge? Say there's a screwed-on tailpiece. Would there be enough transfer of energy? What about an archtop style? I couldn't see there being enough wood to securely hold a TOM, so whatever is used, it might have to be secured somehow other than posts/bushings. I just measured my semi acoustic electric guitar. The top is .128 of an inch. .125 is 1/8th. I haven't had any problems with it. The top is the same thickness as my acoustic. Mine appears to have a solid block running from top to bottom of the body holding the pickups and the bridge. I think you will get feedback problems with no center block but i am no expert.

http://www.complaintsboard.com/complaints/...inc-c83379.html http://groups.google.com/group/alt.music.m...9113df5f5eba903 http://www.violinmaking.com/violin_supply.html http://www.sonicbands.com/showthread.php?t=45133 Yeah I've heard of them, unfortunately after I did business with them They owe me $130 dollars. You won't get a reply from them I tried numerous times. I've debated calling the police because they make a habit of not shipping after they recieve payment.

http://www.allenguitar.com/fretbd_pre-slot.htm Do an internet search..

Yes it is possible. I am a little bit of a Bill Lawrence nut. He is designing a new line of pickups called micro coils. From what I read browsing the Wilde-Gate forum at the Fender Info-Base board he is proposing the same idea. Using the new low impedance micro coils and providing capacitors to alter the tone instead of tone pots. Whether it will work better I don't know but it's a bit unconventional so it probably won't become mainstream.

Yes it is possible. I am a little bit of a Bill Lawrence nut. He is designing a new line of pickups called micro coils. From what I read browsing the Wilde-Gate forum at the Fender Info-Base board he is proposing the same idea. Using the new low impedance micro coils and providing capacitors to alter the tone instead of tone pots. So I guess it is possible.

Yeah it's a little slow. The link to the Tauton site posed by j.pierce is really helpfull. I just bought a book "Understanding Wood Finishing" by Bob Flexner. Great book. I should have bought it before I finished my Strat. I would have saved me a lot of work. I originally ordered a book by Jeff Jewitt but after waiting six months I gave up and ordered this one. This book is great with lots of colour pictures showing the effects of different finishing schemes on the same piece of wood. Highly recommended.

http://www.brightcove.tv/title.jsp?title=1...nnel=1305141082 http://e11.video.blip.tv/1800001011872/The...pisode32126.mp4

The ones at the bottom of the page the split beads are probably what you want. I would get enough for the input cable and the power cable. 1Mhz to 1000Mhz beads would be OK. Hope this works.. This sounds like the least expensive of any of the other solutions! Very interesting indeed! I have a few questions though. #1 Where would I put these beads? on the power cables of my equipment? or on the audio cables? or both? and...#2 one of the linked articles you posted mentioned something about the different types and ratings...what would you suggest for my particular situation?

When I worked at a radio/tv station we had a problem with an induced signal from a radar installation. We had to install ferrite beads in the power supply circuit and signal cables. I did a search on the net and came up with some info for you. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead http://www.palomar-engineers.com/Ferrite_B...rite_beads.html http://www.antennex.com/shack/Dec99/beads.htm

I left out some info that he gave me. He coats one side at a time and does not hang the guitar. He leaves the guitar horizontal and level. I used a piece of wood that I screwed into the neck pocket using the four holes in the neck cavity. I clamped this handle into a vice to hold the guitar level. Make sure the minwax spray is warm not cold or hot and don't rush between coats. Tony... thanks tony, i appreciate your advice. Does anybody know if water based analine dyes will be ok with Minwax? or whether or not i should fill the mahogany? Yes they work. Thats what I used on my Strat that I assembled from parts. The nice thing about water based analine dyes is that you use bleach to remove them if something goes wrong. I think most people here fill mahogany but I'm not really qualified to give any advice on the methods. Try doing a keyword search, mahogany or grain fill and see what comes up..