Quite so. I'm in the UK and I'm an easy going type, hating any sort of flaming or arguments. Civilised discussions I do like, where one can disagree with another in an amicable manner
Anyway, back to Titebond. I've used Titebond to stick open grain veneer down,. The first time was a mess, soaking through the veneer, but then I was given a very useful tip by a furniture maker. Use a rolled up bit of lint free cloth, put a smallish amount of Titebond on the cloth and spread it around (on the cloth, not the veneer!). Once you have a thin layer on the cloth, wipe it sparingly over the veneer, making sure the veneer is covered in a very thin layer. You don't want enough Titebond on there to soak through.
Allow to dry, about two hours. Repeat this operation another two times. Now you have a firm dry layer of Titebond on the veneer, which will stop the glue from soaking through. Now you can spread Titebond on the timber you are putting the veneer on. Spread it fairly thin, and as evenly as possible, so you don't have pools of the stuff on the surface. Don't put any more glue on the veneer. There will be enough on the timber to do the job. Now lay the veneer down on the timber, obviously glue side down. Use a length of thick dowel/broom handle to roll the veneer down firmly all over, then clamp in your usual way.
You may have to do a couple of test runs on offcuts to perfect it, but it works well. I've put thin veneer on three different guitars, and after leaving for three or four days, successfully stained them with water based stain, applied sparingly, and allowing to dry before applying subsequent coats.
Alcohol based stains may start to dissolve the glue as it soaks through, and cause bubbles to form under the veneer, so for that reason, I stick to water based dye.