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Musiclogic

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Everything posted by Musiclogic

  1. This is an excellent viewpoint,(all except the zebra stripes ) and should be read by anyone wanting to teach or take on an apprentice. Doubts always come with the territory, but it is also about your ability to properly instruct, and be able to identify possible problems before something bad occurs. The "kit" idea is also a great idea to minimize risk, and achieve something playable. Good luck with everything.
  2. Pretty simple fix, sand clean with 400 and 600 to clean away grime, and spray with Poly (Minwax poly from Home Depot or Lowes works well) wait 3 or 4 days for curing, blend /wetsand with 800 to smooth, wax and your back to playing.
  3. That clamp press was a pretty good idea, and probably could work great with a little more refining. Doesn't really look that bad. Should be able to be fixed, you can always use some edge banding or veneer to fill the gouging, or even epoxy for that matter. Avenger posted a great link, and there is plenty of good advice, just take your time. Plenty of people here to get you playing.
  4. you could also do a Wal type coil, being a single insulated pole wrapped with 42 or 43 ga wire, and magnetized from beneath with an Ndym or Alnico 8. There are many ways to approach this....Swedish Luthier has some very good instruction and reference for you in his post.
  5. Following the string paths is the best way to get the most consistent leveling on a compound radius
  6. The nut will only effect your sound most audibly when the string is played open, once a note is contacted on the FB the nut plays a lesser role in overall sound. Alder may be a bit soft and loose grained for a nut, Something like Bone, Delrin, Corian, Ivory, MOP, or even harder woods such as purpleheart, wenge, ebony and rosewoods work well. A laminate might hold up, it's worth a try.
  7. I am guessing you present everything in circular antagonism to purvey a sense of greater esteem without actual personality. You wish to be MP yet somehow end up as the kids in the hall. Must be depressing for you. BTW, I am also guessing that the forum rules stating no flaming are only applicable to those non featured members, and the actions stated in the forum rules are also falacious. I appreciate this point of insight also.
  8. Actually if you could comprehend what is said in my bio, You would not think of it as saying I love myself, but rather, I am extremely self aware, and make no excuses for who I am. Most do not have this personally and cannot understand it of others. I truly appreciate the perspective and work of others, and join forums like this to gain understanding of how others work, as this helps me to become more efficient. If you cannot learn everyday from experience and the abilities of others, you are unable to grow as a professional or as a person. As for a God complex....What complex?
  9. But that wasn't a full 5 minute argument just now! Comment removed, and apologies to anyone I offended. Sometimes the mouth overrules the brain.
  10. Please read again, your little book guy must have had the book upsidedown. The post plainly says 3 coats then radius sand to 600, fret, level, crown, tape off spray 2 more coats, wetsand and buff. Same operation with 1 extra step(2 extra finish coats...not much work) which is the difference between making the FB look as if the finish was applied to maximize appearence, or the rickenbacker/old Fender method where the finish covers the bottom half of the fret looking very cheaply done. I guess after you develop a clientele that demands a specific degree of detail for the price, you work to please those clients. In my 26 years, I learned to do what the customer wants, and what attracts more customers, and this finishing technique seems to do that.
  11. Delrin is also good for this type of fill, as id pickguard material, all of which are easy to cut by hand, and shape by hand.
  12. 320 is not too rough at all, infact for prefinish work it is generally a good place to stop, as it leaves enough teeth for the finish to grab, post finish, for leveling go with 600, but any of the above reccommendations should be fine for you.
  13. the general rule of thumb is that angles of 10 degrees to 15 degreees maximum provide the best balance of string to nut tension for sustain without over bending at the fulcrum. Below 10 degrees the nut slot angle should be greater as not to get poor intonation and string bind. I think 8 degrees or better should be fine for you, and scarf joints are a fine substitute to save wood.
  14. Trev sold the rights to the Wilkinson tremolo units to Gotoh a while back. Try getting in touch with them @ www.g-gotoh.com Or just use Opera La Traviata? la Boheme? Il trovatore? Turandot? Carmen? Pagliacci? which Opera?
  15. what you need is a box jig, it's a very simple jig but works very effectively, and you can make 10 of them in a few hours. U shaped box, 1/2" deep with 4 screws going through the sides that have blocks on the end. Headstock lays flat in the boxears lay flat in the box, and you screw one side, giving you clamp pressure, and allowing you to screw the 4 screws on the other side to equalize pressure if you have angle to account for.
  16. yeah, that lack of time thing sucks. But, I chose this job, it didn't choose me...LMAO Unlike the Government I went with the highest bidder.... As for the luthiers clamps... I liked having a set of clamps with cork on the face that I could use for delicate operations during repairs. But in the raw building business I haven't missed them as much as I thought I would. Not sure what "Raw building" is, (I mill all of my wood and go from there, no knock offs, no wood parts from suppliers, I build em, just original design) . I've been a luthier for 26 years, and a worker in the industry for 30+, and I always have use for cam clamps. Ken Smith still uses them to do their fretboard glue ups. I use them for any task I can. They are so useful in 1 handed situations like quick grips, but with a wider clamping foot. just a good all around clamp.
  17. yeah, that lack of time thing sucks. But, I chose this job, it didn't choose me...LMAO
  18. Outstanding post. I have been making my own cam clamps and spool clamps for a couple of years now thanks to a similar video guide.
  19. if those fisheyes still have wax or oil in them, they will continue to resist the lacquer tothe outer edge, and continue to reappear, make sure they are clean, dewaxed, and dry before filling
  20. The Gibson Explorer neck is a mortise and tenon joint, set neck. The reason for the heel block is more out of tradition than anything else. This used to be the standard fare when set/neck through were first put into practice, to mimmick the feel of the bolt on, while also providing a seamless transition from body to neck, thus allowing them to completely finish the playing area and headstock before joining, and a small amount of finish work afterwards. As long as your explorer has sufficient wood for the pocket, to brace the tension of the joint, thickness and length to match the flat of the neck block, you should be fine.
  21. Most kits already have the tenon cut for proper alignment. It's usually just glue and clamp with a kit. Checking is always a must before gluing(common sense) but it should be pretty straight forward. Tape off side of body around neck rout and around top rout, Glue the pocket, glue the tenon, start adding clamp pressure from top of tenon perssing into place, start adding pressure on heel to seat properly against body edge, keep adding pressure to each clamp until locked in place, flush with rout, and flush with body. Take a damp rag and wipe away the squeeze out. Then clean join seam thoroughly to make sure of even finish color on whole guitar.
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