demonx

I don't clean up glue until it's set. A lot of people do but glue has what's called shrinkage, if you wipe it back flush and the glue shrinks, what's holding the joint at the edges? I know modern glues don't shrink like old school glues, but I'd just rather do it this way. All the glue drips scrape off really easy with a chisel afterwards so it's not a big effort. You can see I layed green tape over the nut area so it didn't squeeze all over the truss rod slit there, I did remove that tape moments after the photo and I did wipe just under the fretboard end where it hangs over the body but that's it

It's common. Lots of people push them down too far, that's why it was the first thing that came to mind. Glad it was a quick easy fix. Better than replacing a pot!

Some of the guitars in this poll only lost by a single vote... In the time I spent going through the different voting polls through the year to get the picks for this, I saw some great guitars that I'd forgotten about. Definitely a sweet walk down the memory lane or project guitar!

JUN: DC Ross - my DC-1 body style JUL: ScottR - "Leroy" AUG: Doug 59 - Joe's Guitar SEP: madhattr88 - Build #6 OCT: demonx - GROGES SIGNATURE SPEC NOV: RestorationAD --Punisher-- DEC: RestorationAD --T-Rex--

Heres the other voting poll that was mentioned in the other thread. It's the battle of the runners up! Kind of like a second chance draw for all the guitars of 2011 that were close, but didn't quite make it. JAN: Ali Kat - The Ali Kat Rockabilly Kustom FEB 1: bigdguitars - LPDC FEB 2: chile - moro MAR: Scatter Lee - Custom Jr. Special APR: madhattr88 - Rinker Guitars - "R5" MAY: Metalhead28 - "Diathesis"

Inlay done, sanded - turned out great. I'm happy with the way it turned out. Board clamped to neck...

Scary... I'll keep that in mind. Thanks

Andyt - was that a 2k one shot that doesn't require clear? I'd suggest spraying some on a test panel and then cutting it to see what it looks like. Just say a guitar for example, you want the neck etc to be perfect smooth, so you're not going to want it left off the gun. I've only used k one shots a couple times, never been happy with the finish but they have their purpose, like your wheels for a perfect example. They look good too!

Haven't seem him but that doesn't mean he's not a member You should post builds here. Its not about exihibitism, it's about growing your skills, constructive feedback and trying new things.

I just took the first pic that each person has posted, I didn't make any "choices". I figure that the first pic is the one people would usually consider their best. Anyway, when I took crows pic i couldn't even see it. Somehow the way he posts his pics either my firewall or ip blocker doesn't like them so I got his link looking through the code, I can see his pics in my iPhone but not my pc. We can let the voting run for another month if you guys want, say end of feb? Gives it a long time to let people float in and have their say. I'm open to suggestions

YetzerHarah: Oh geez, not you! hahaha Only joking, good to see a familiar face. Theres a few "cross overs" that float on this forum I've noticed! Cheers!

Have a look at this door I sprayed on an old chevy. You can see where the satin and gloss black meet. It is the exact same black and exact same clear, its just that I sprayed the satin part with the matting agent mixed in. Onthis car when the door panel is on, then you only see the satin black and the gloss red and the fade out underneath like they did back in the 60's/70's at the chevy plant, only I've done this with 2k instead of enamal like they did back then.

The way I spray satin or flat is the same way I spray every other color, except I add a gloss inhibitor into the clear. The amount of matting agent/gloss inhibitor you add effects whether its only satin or if you really take the gloss out of it to make it matt. When you spray 2k paints, they are all rather flat as base coat only and the gloss doesnt happen until you shoot the clear.

That is awesome! I've never even looked to see if mine swivells, I dont think it does. I've been messing about making up stupid angled jigs etc to clamp at crazy angles, (some have ended in failure!) I might have to see if I can get a swivel base! Guitar looks excellent by the way, very classy. Everything you've done looks tight and executed to perfection.

Might sound stupid, but have you tried it without the knob (cover) on it? Some people push the knob so far down it hits the top of the guitar when it turns and it makes it feel like the pot is bad in spots or all together. If this isnt the case, it's probably either damaged or full of crap. Try spraying some contact cleaner in it and work it free, see if that changes anything.

Looks pretty cool - but bulky. Opposite effect of what I'm trying to achieve! I found them on youtube but their webpage seems to be suspended?

I use mostly switchcraft jacks and switches, I use bareknuckle (CTS) pots and I buy paper/oil caps from the people that make my pickups (bareknuckle)... I assume thats all high enough quality? Looking through some of the links people have posted. Few little gadgets seem interesting but nothing really jumps out as a "must have", but I did see a couple " might try's"

PM sent to Mr Prostheta

I'm curious, are there any new innovations in the guitar electronics department? I like to try keep the front of my guitars as plain as possible (knobs/switches wise) and my preferred choice is one humbucker and one single - so I'm not looking for something that involves a million knobs and switches like an old B.C. Rich Bich! I'm looking for something thats simple and has purpose but compliments the guitar. Even if it involves a PCB or anything, just looking for good ideas thats aren't too gimmicky!

One thing I do to extend the life of sandpaper (not sure if you've ever heard of this) is when I'm doing a lot of sanding I keep an air hose close and I blast the sandpaper clean and keep using it. Means you get about 4x the use out of 1 piece and since the rolls I use cost my nearly $70 a roll I try get as much out of them as I can. Just be aware that if after you blast it, if theres chunks left they'll leave scratches.

I voted for hitones hot rod (June a) Something about the shape (I just love this shape elec/acoustic) jazz style, even though I don't play any music that'd need one! The colors also jump out to my visual senses. If I got two votes my second would have been februarys spider.

Do you have an idea why it broke/shattered? Sounds very nasty. I'm curious as I assumed this was the direction I wanted to go. Was it being forced or anything like that?

Also, if you're going to spray metallics or pearls, make sure you read up on the different spraying methods, as if you try spraying them normal you'll get what they call train tracks. It's not as obvious on a small surface like a guitar as it is on a car, but it's still good to do the research and cover bases. I was taught the following tip by a mate of mine who is a member of this forum but I don't think he posts, just lurks. He used to paint trucks for a living and I'm pretty sure I remember him saying some of the paints he used were as much as $2000.00 a liter! So they have to get it right the first time. Spraying a massive surface like a truck you need to have a technique down or it'll look like arse When I spray these type paints I usually spray 3 coats. First I spray normal horizontal. Second I spray diagonal left to right. Third I spray diagonal right to left. On the second layer you'll still see train tracks, then on the third it'll just fill and look "right" When you mix it up like this all the flake spreads even and looks great. If you shoot it normal then you run the risk of areas not being even.

I have a detail sander. It's a good one, cost a couple hundred dollars. I don't use it on guitars. Buy a cork sanding block and familiarize yourself with the grades of sandpaper. The only time I use a mechanical sander is during the woodwork/carving process. During the sanding process it's all done by hand. Remember also, the harder the spot is to sand, the more important it is to do it properly as that's most likely where your paint will fail. Cheers

That's going to look sexy when it's finished! I've got a soft spot for turquoise type trans quilt finishes!