SoundAt11

I've got a buddy with a homemade guitar with a cherry body, sounds great and he sure loves it. Persimmon is wood that's been interesting me, as it's supposed to have similar heartwood to Ebony and grows nearby. A game call maker I know, mentioned how they're really similar they are to work with.

Wow, Wow, WOW! That's real artistry, it looks so good, I'd be afraid of the spider biting me if I went for an A barre chord :-)

I'll say it again, that body style is perfect and now I see the headstock style and it's perfect to:-) I'm impressed to see how the neck wood looks since you've shaped it. I normally just deal with rectangular pieces of wood, so it's nice to see what's "inside" when they're actually carved and shaped. Keep up the good work, I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product (clear or Tobacco Sunburst?)

Added a few variations: Flamed and Unflamed, standard neck and neck-thru style blanks, and some Limba for the the bodies.

My first guitar build was a neck-thru, using the Carvin NT6 maple/ebony 24 fret neck (I cut off the last 2 frets to make it a 22 fret neck). I wasn't too hard for a first-timer. Get your measurements made for placement of everything, cut out your body halves, plane your body wood to the thickness of the neck section, square up the edges, round all your cutaways (a lot easier before gluing them onto the neck). I used dowel rods to help with the gluing process and hopefully add sustain (more wood to transfer vibrations), though you could omit this step. Then clamp and glue, sand off the excess glue, route all the holes, finish, wire, set up. I recessed my TOM bridge, due to the lack of neck angle and direct mounted my pickups (so I had to get those cavities perfectly deep), but that was the only tricky thing, you could omit those if you went with a Strat-bridge and pickup rings. This guy's site is a step-by-step for building a neck thru: http://www.reesley.com/guitar.html

I just posted this in my ebay store, Quartersawn White Limba neck blanks in bulk and I will ship Worldwide: http://cgi.ebay.com/Korina-LOT-White-Limba...7QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/Korina-LOT-White-Limba...7QQcmdZViewItem

Ebay is your best bet. For humbuckers, a Seymour Duncan '59 neck and a Custom bridge model humbuckers can be found for $40-50 appiece. I've used this set in a cheapo asian plywood guitar and it sounded pretty nice.

Wow, that's definitely the sickest looking piece of burl I've seen, it just looks soooo nasty: in a good way. That alder looks nice. That color looks real similar to mahogany. It's a shame that clear finished alder isn't more common.

Sweet wood! That's really clean work so far, that routing and sawing is precise. One of these days I'll build me a JEM....

That's looking really cool. I absolutely love the look of the neck; that looks very well done so far. I've never seen clear finished/oil birch before, but it's really pretty. That's a really interesting looking piece, more going visually than plain maple. I'm another person that doesn't care for painted Warlocks, usually. A slab of wood that large needs to be shown off so everyone can see it.

It looks a lot like Canary wood or possibly Goncalo Alves, but it could be some other oddball South American wood.

*Bump*

You could do a search here for "SoundAt11" and then PM him. He also has a Ebay store (also uses SoundAt11 for a user name on Ebay). He has alot more wood then whats listed at Ebay. Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you guys liked the lumber:-) Here's my Ebay Store address: http://stores.ebay.com/Sound-At-11?refid=store I tend to keep the quick selling items (all mahogany and some limba) in my 7-day listings, as they get bought quickly. Some of the slower selling items (ie maple, purpleheart, walnut, some limba, hide glue) stays in the store where it stays until sold (less work). If anyone has a "custom" request, I can always place it in the Store. I do have TONS, (litterally a few tons) of uncut lumber at any given point, so there's always some for odd sizes or specific requests. I've got a lot "scraps" to, ie blocks and strips of various pieces of wood, so if anyone ever needs a odd sized smaller pieces, I can probably do that to. Dave, good choice on the Carvin neck. How hard (or expensive) was it to get the Mahogany/Ebony neck from them? I bought one of their standard Maple/Ebony neck-thru blanks for my PRS-alike project and would like to buy another one for the LP/Tele project, but I wasn't sure if they did custom requests or not. cheers, Will

Hi Kev, I just measured, it's: 2 1/8" wide, 1 3/4" thick, and 38 1/2" long. I was going ask $25 for it when I get around to putting it in my Ebay store. If it doesn't sell, I may cut it into some nice neck laminate strips and make a multi-piece neck out of it. I can take a picture if you want to see it, it's pretty, nice tight flame striping.

It should be around $45 US in shipping 1 limba neck blank to Australia and $65 US for 2 neck blanks. This is the 3-5 day shipping method via the US Postal Service that's guaranteed and trackable. You can save a little bit of money on some of the slower options, but they can take up to a month or longer and are untrackable (so they can dissappear). I've got 1 flamed maple neck blank left, actually around 2x2x38, that's stunning. I'm not sure if there are any rules on importing raw wood into Australia. I've sent a large batch of mahogany body blanks there and there weren't any problems (man, was it expensive to ship, though). I don't know if they technically consider it "raw", though since it has been kiln dried and planed down smooth, so any bugs or fungi originally in the tree are long gone.

Hi Rob, No problem, I've sent to the UK before, it's not a big deal, just a little customs paperwork. Just let me know what you need, I can give you a little price break to help with the shipping costs. Will

Hi Kev, Sure, I mailed off a package to there this morning, and have sent several large wood orders there. As long as you can pay the shipping costs, I'd be happy to send some Limba down under.

I've got several hundred board feet of Black Limba and White Limba, much of it in neck sizes and much of that quartersawn. I've got plenty of blocks and strips left over if you need odd-sized pieces, just let me know. I've still got plenty of Black Walnut, Purpleheart, Ash, Maple, Honduran Mahogany, and African Mahogany lumber left, whatever size you need or request you have, contact me and I'll see what I can do.

I feel qualified to give a response, as I've cut up approx 1,000 BF of Mahogany, Limba, Purpleheart, Ash, Walnut, and Maple (mainly the first 3) in the past 6 months for my online wood-selling business I don't have any allergies to begin with and with _constant_ exposure over the past 6 months (ie saw, plane, and sand a few times a week, store all cut blanks in my house in a spare bedroom, move them around to photograph, and ultimatly pack them for shipment, I've gotten nothing more than an occassional stuffy nose or sneeze. My roomate has had no problems from any of the dust in our house (and believe me, the lumber room smells like a kiln). I do, however, wear a full respirator with canisters and prefilters that covers my mouth and nose, along with ear-protection, and full goggles when cutting/planing/sanding. I generally where pants and long sleeved shirts (or a jacket during the winter) when working with the lumber, I dust them off completely outdoors, and immediately change clothes and shower after I return from woodworking. My friend, however, that occassionally volunteers to help, uses no protection and always ends up with a sinus headache and caughing the rest of the day. For particular wood types, I haven't had any of the above mentioned woods give me rashes, itching, or watery eyes at all. If anything, the worst I've encountered is when I had a cabinet shop do some fine finish sanding on some of my lumber, the dust was so fine that as soon as you walked into the building you'd start sneezing and caughing, it actually dried out my throat. Anyway, to sum it up, for regular guitar building, just use a respirator, some ear-muffs, and goggles, along with long sleeves, pants, and boots (with sturdy toes to protect against falling lumber), remove all your gear outside, dust off, shower and change clothes when you get indoors, and you should be fine. Then the worst thing you'll have to worry about is splinters :-)

I've still got one board left and some strips and blocks left over from the other board. It's 2 1/4" thick and I can plane it, so if you want neck or body laminates, I'd be happy to cut and plane some for you.

Thanks on the guitar, that's my baby. I unfortunately put on that finish at night, outdoors, in the winter, so it was a little cloudy and runny. I later wetsanded it and used some automotive buffing compound and wax to gloss it back up. If you look at the pictures of the back, they show this better than the front. The guitar wasn't cleaned up before those photos, so the top is a bit dirty. That's around 3 layers of finish and it's been on there for around 2 years now with no problems. I guess you could say it melds together. On the pieces of furniture I mentioned, I gave them a few layers each. Each layer went on smooth, so didn't do any sanding in between. Light, thin layers on a nice sunny afternoon and you should be fine. I definitely reccommend the semi-gloss, it's a natural look with a light sheen. I used it on a pine bookshelf that's sitting exposed in the 80+ degree weather and sunlight on my deck and it's doing just fine, no cracks or anything.

Looking great so far, very woody and natural looking, the rosewood is especially nice. That wheeled truss-rod adjustment is very cool. I've seen it on the Ernie Ball guitars, but never on set-neck ones. I may have to use that on my neck, I'm not a big fat of removing material a the headstock. Some oil or a light satin finish and you're set :-)

I used it on one of my guitars: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/soundat11/al...dat11/my_photos As well as several pieces of pine furniture. I really like it, I've found that (as long as the weather is clear, warm, and not too humid), it goes on very well and doesn't run. I used some of the Semi-Gloss on a table this past weekend and it was perfect, no runs, no uneven spots, I didn't even need to wet-sand it or anything. It can get cloudy or runny if you use it in cold weather or late night/early morning when there's moisture in the air.

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Looking great so far J, the wood looks great, of course, and I like the shape so far. It vaguely reminds me of a Gretsch BST model neck through, which was a Walnut/Maple neck-thru double cutaway. Love the PRS headstock choice. You action may be a little odd due to the radius difference. I've got a Stew-Mac Gold Gotoh tun-o-matic bridge on my PRS-style neck-thru and it's got a 12 degree radius, while the neck has a 15-degree radius. I always found the action wasn't as low and flat as I really like, but it's not a huge difference and you probably won't notice it. The main thing is just ensuring your tuner holes line up with your nut, your nut lines up with the fretboard, which lines up with your bridge, and that your pickups line up with your strings. Some guys use a laser level, which I may do on my next build, since my alignment is a little off, it's easy to pull the little E off the fretboard and the bridge pickup is approx 1/32" of aligning with the strings perfectly.