henrim

Scratch that. I don’t know what happened. I just somehow managed to drill one tuner hole in wrong place on the front side of the headstock (backside is fine). It’s not a biggie because the front side is going to be painted and it won’t be visible. But, it is one of those mistakes I like to blame myself for a long time.

Ok, I said funky too early Keep on it!

For a moment I thought you really shouldn’t go that route but, I realized you must mean Illustrator and not the AI that gets a lot of press these days

Some funky stuff going on here!

My bass has “a tiny intonation problem” so I first thought about fixing it, but realized it may not be worth it. So I started looking at available commercial alternatives but, the cheap short scale Ibanez basses I like are out of stock in Finland. And because there are strikes going on, parcels are not moving from Central Europe either. So I designed myself a bass… but came to senses. I guess I can live a little longer without one and finish this guitar first instead. We’ll see, maybe I build that bass someday but I guess I just buy one, once they are available. Made a headstock plate and glued it.

25,5 is the typical scale for Fender guitars. 24,75 is more of a Gibson thing.

So is Floyd Rose Special Which is the cheap alternative from the maker.

I know the symptom. Happens sometimes. I've never bothered figuring out whether it is one of the guitars, a certain pedal or certain amp that picks up the buzz. It is so rare that I've just moved the phone further away and haven't thought more about it. I guess I should isolate the problem next time it happens.

Thanks. I ran a couple of passes in the planer to straighten the sole. Then tested the plane. Works ok, I guess. Don’t know if I’m going to use the this plane for anything, but I guess if I do I need to camber the blade a bit more. How do you flatten the stones? I used to use sandpaper on a piece of glass. Which worked fine but, I really like the big flattening stone I got at some point years ago. Also in the picture my current sharpening guide and angle jig. While not mandatory, they sure make sharpening process more accurate and convenient. Of course if you use them you have to sell your soul and admit that you’ll never be the craftsman who effectively and repeatably sharpens perfectly their blades freehand. Low price to pay if you ask me. And believe me I desperately wanted to be that craftsman, before I realized that life is too short to do everything the hard way.

CR2032? I’d think they are widely available.

One of the two blades I posted above belongs to this plane. I have had it more than ten years. It is a flea market find I never bothered to do anything with. But now that we have this plane discussion going, I thought about giving it a go. First I freed it from most of the rust. The blade was a bit on the dull side so, I ground it flat and square and sharpened it. I need to plane the sole straight, clean the body a bit and then see if I can use the plane somewhere sometime.

Yes, that is actually likely a better idea for cast iron.

Eats zinc coating really fast and corrodes aluminum. Not just phosphoric acid but pretty much any acid.

That explains it. I was scratching my head on that. Similar but now equally spaced lines on both sides. But yes, better submerge the whole thing. I use phosphoric acid for rust removal and haven’t ever used Evapo-rust but I guess it behaves much the same. I have had Dinitrol’s solution that is phosphoric acid based. So I guess Evapo-Rust is too. Or it is a citric acid solution. I don’t know. I used to use plain citric said but it’s slower that phosphoric acid. Dinitrol’s solution has some other components in it but I can’t tell if it is better in any way compared to regular diluted phosphoric acid. Just don’t put any galvanized or aluminum parts in the solution!

I suggest you try the way I described above. That way there is less risk of cold joints and excess heat. And you have better control over the amount of solder needed. And I believe it is easier too. Although, sometimes it is difficult to keep the wire in place. If it is a multi strand wire, you can twist it around the lug or if it is a single core you can usually bend it so that it stays put. Also a “helping hand” tool is useful in many situations. But it’s all details, when you are almost ready to string the guitar and rock on!

All right, I can see the benefit in desoldering, although a desoldering tip would be my first choice in a tightly populated PCB, rather than adding more solder. But I guess there are times when that trick may come handy. Apparently your soldering method involves desoldering, which usually isn’t the case. So may be it is a good trick in that too.

Well, the tip needs to be tinned but I don’t know if excess solder helps in any situation. I don’t do that but, good if does. Those switches were getting too much heat. That is for sure. Usually you put the wire in the lug, heat the spot and then add solder. You were pushing the wire in to the lug for some reason. Was the melted lug making a connection when you soldered it? That could possibly explain where the heat was escaping. Anyway I don’t think you can easily avoid that with the common lug anyway.

Heat the spot to be soldered with the iron and add solder to the heated spot. Not to the tip of the soldering iron. Are you using leaded or lead-free solder? Lead-free may require considerably more heat than one containing lead. But that depends on the alloy. I haven’t switched yet to lead-free because I still have a so much leaded solder stocked. But I guess I should do the switch before I ran out. I generally don’t. On my own builds I rather ground the pots without soldering wires to the cases. If I do repair, I try to do potentiometer case soldering outside of the guitar, if possible. Sometimes it isn’t and I do know the pain.

Good progress! That’s good if you have suitable grit available. I always use adhesive spray for sandpapers. Both for permanent and temporary attachments. Just make sure what glue you use. Some of them can be used for re-pasting, while others are only for permanent bonds.

There are no mishaps, only opportunities. I tipped over a can of osmo and realized it was time to clean the table, scrape it and give it a new coat of osmo. That 30mm MDF top has served me well almost 20 years. Only occasional scraping and oiling is needed.

Maybe we should have a hand plane thread I don’t know much about British steel (apart from that Judas Priest album). How’s these? I have two of these try (jointer) plane blades from old wooden planes. I think I have used the other one long ago but can’t recall anything about it. I guess I should just sharpen them and find out but, if you guys know Sheffield steel, please tell.

Progrezz.

Friday night shaving. I love these little planes. Can’t remember where I got them from but I guess they are Chinese or Japanese. Markings look like a bit like Japanese Katakana to me. But I don’t know, may as well be something else.

That’s a new idiom to me. Love it, thanks! And I like to think it’s the best way to learn. Although I know people who would strongly disagree. And there are days when I wholeheartedly agree with them. In Finland we have a similar expression “mennä perse edellä puuhun”, to climb a tree butt first.

Nah, at least I think you have a good process going on here. In my experience things like this may result something you wouldn’t have thought had you designed it in CAD. Of course, when designing while making, there’s always a chance of great disaster but still, you got to experiment and probably learned a ton. Which gives you new ways of thinking that you can use in future! Rock on!