MidnightLamp

Hey guys, I've got a line 6 toneport UX1 (as pictured here): http://www.musiciansfriend.com/product/Lin...face?sku=249700 It's in mint condition, and has been used once for 30 minutes or so. I like the sound, and it works great with Guitar Rig 2 (software), or the Gearbox software, and it's got asio inputs that work with almost any recording software. Being sold because I need more tracks to put in (using an Alesis AI3), and I can only have one asio input, so this one's gotta go. Comes with original box/software/etc... I'm looking for around $100 for it. I'm interested in trades for: random recording equipment (ADAT anyone?). Cheers, Nish P.S. Pics available on request.

You've just got a non official dremel shaft that's all. The dremel collar should fit the threads on the flex shaft if it's original dremel (All my old fitting still work on my new dremel, so I know they haven't changed it). As for the square shaft, if I recall, you just put the square shaft in the collect and tighten the heck out of it. Cheers, Nish

Hi all, Need some cash to help pay for some new ADAT cards, so I'm selling off my "other" (non-work) PC. This is designed for graphics work (cad/cam) and some games ( icon_mrgreen), and is built by me with overclocking in mind. As a note, I'm only interested in cash (or an ADAT pci card or two icon_cool) for this PC. Specs: -Case: Black Raidmax 868W Mid Tower (modded /w 3 fans (two LED, 1 intelligent), and gold deluxe thumbscrews for power supply and case) -Power Supply: Raidmax "silent" 420W (all wires are sleeved with wireloom) -Motherboard: Asus P4S800D-X -Processor: Intel Pentium 4 Northwood B 533mhz FSB (2.4ghz) -Cooling: 3x80mm Case Fans (throughout case), and an Evercool solid copper (thin fin) CPU fan. -Memory: 512MB PC2100 -Graphics Card: ATI Radeon 9000 128MB -Drives: 52x NEC Black CD-Rom drive, 40x12x40x CD/RW drive + Black Floppy Drive -Hard Drive: 60GB WD Caviar 7200RPM drive -OS: Windows 2000 Links: Raidmax Case: http://www.whiningdog.net/Reviews/PCs/Case...AX868/index.php Motherboard: http://usa.asus.com/products.aspx?l1=3&amp...amp;modelmenu=1 Condition: Good, not used to often. Price: $500 Canadian ( about $445 US) + Shipping Cheers, Nish

No. Lyon is the cheap-o washburn brand that sells at target, etc...

I'd say get the ibanez fret file set from allied: http://www.alliedlutherie.com/files.htm

Weight meaning the amount of wood used. The more wood used, the more sustain you get (very simply put, it'll affect a lot of other attributes also). If you wanted to make a DC guitar that has the same resonance properties as your favourite LP guitar, just make sure it's the same wood, and volume wise, the bodies are the same size, and same wood.

Hey, I've been following this thread, and don't particularly want to pipe up, because more than likely I'm wrong...but has anyone considered the bridge? My thoughts on getting low action (as someone who has set up their fair share of guitars) is that 99.999999999% of the trouble ends up coming from the bridge. Sure, you can radius the frets perfectly, and have the truss rod perfectly set, but without the proper settings on the bridge and nut, you just can't go as low as you'd want to. My problem always comes from the saddle height settings which are THE most neglected settings on a bridge. If the bridge is not properly curved, you're just not going to get the ultra low action and playability you want. On a flat fretboard, you don't have to worry about that, as it's easy to set all the saddles to be perfectly straight and level, and set the nut to be just like that. On a guitar with a floyd for example: without too much work, you can make all the saddle heights perfectly even, but have fun doing any real radius without a crapload of shims... Basically, the way I understood it, this was the whole reasoning behind having a compound radius fretboard. By making the fretboard have a flat radius near the end, you can compensate for having less adjustment on the bridge, and the nut holds the strings at the proper radius at the other end. Either way, the point is that in an ideal situation, you can make any guitar play with ultra low action, and bend fairly well. If you want to have ultra low action, like the feel of a classical guitar and want to bend madly...then maybe the flat fretboard is for you. The way I see it, with a 1/4 inch fretboard, even if you did radius it, you'd still slot the thing for frets first. So as mentioned before, just cut the fret slots and fret it as is when building. If you don't like it, just pull out the frets, radius it (just remove the nut and mask the headstock), and put the frets back in. Peace.

wait...is that all the wood that comes stock with the saga kit?!?

In hindsight, with an odd shape like that, they must be playing at having one file do multiple sizes (albeit poorly). Geez...I'd love to say, just go for the stewmac one, but they're almost $100 shipped per grit... How much was the ebay one?

Take a close look at the stewmac file and you'll see the difference. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Files/2/...Fret_Files.html The stewmac files are not two grit files, but instead are two size. For example, the 150-grit file has one side for small/medium and one side for large/jumbo. Seems like you've got the small/medium one and are using it on jumbo frets. A one size fits all file would not be very good for accurate recrowning. I'd say try to return the file and see if he has a large/jumbo one. For Chris, I'd say take the 150. Since it is a lower grit, it will last longer (the law of any abrasive). In my opinion, a crowning file is only going to be needed to roughly shape the frets. I always polish with sandpaper, steel wool, then buff.

I assumed that the details would not be correct, but if the fretwork is bad, and the guitar wood sucks itself...it defeats the point. I don't know if you all've heard of SX guitars before? I'd hoped they'd be like those ones; really great playing and finished guitars, but with really cheap hardware/pickups/electronics (so it's only a little work to outplay many of their brand name MIA and MIJ guitars). Guess it's just too much to expect of something so cheap and shady looking...

guitarbuild.com has free templates for the necks, as well as several jackson and other manf. bodies.

Hey Perry, what's the acutal quality like on them/what are they made of? As a side note, here's the factory's site: http://www.tarpitch.com/ Anyone up for a GIBSUN case? http://www.tarpitch.com/product_info.php?p...b421ffe9ce0755a (you'd think they'd get the spelling right before embossing it on the case...)

They are string through ferrules. Back: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Hardware,_part...g_Ferrules.html Front: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Hardware,_part...p_Ferrules.html

drak...I came back home and ran up to my computer to look at that top...it's seriously the most kickass thing I've EVER seen. FRAME THE BODY NOW, BEFORE YOU GET ANY DUST ON IT!!!!! Seriously though, I'd be worried about covering up such unique and amazing grain...you can see so many pictures in it, it's more art than wood! Cheers, Nish

Ahh, now I see the joint...may I (noobishly enough) ask why it's so far back?

Damn! I know I'm not that good at guitar building, but I still can't even SEE the joint in that picture, it's that good. My belt sander sucks completely and totally, and it doesn't have enough width to do the kinds of necks I'm doing right now (solid one piece maple, with jackson style headstock) without laminating a couple pieces. I just built the router sled tonight, and it's looking like it's the way to go for me. Nice to know there's another method too...beats cutting by hand for those of us who have little to no measure of a straight cut!

Be warned when using a router on such large surfaces. Feed it carefully, and make sure to watch the grain orientation and cutting direction to try and minmize any tearout.

I'll try a bit of both, as the sharpening setup I have (hand + old arkansas) usually gives me a blade that'll cut fine cuts perfectly but have trouble with the deeper cuts (it's the angle at which the blade was originally ground that's the problem...plane was second hand). I'll just rough the joint with the router and finish it with a few strokes of the plane. I'm in the process of trying chris's method, and I'm just building the jig. I'll post the guitar as soon as it's done. Thanks for all the help guys! mods, [/thread]

I've got a belt sander, what do I do? I guess I've never heard of that method yet! So far (for those curious) I've tried (to crappy avail): -Hand saw (coping and lumber saw (you know the ripcut saw you use to cut 2x4's?)) -Badly done bandsaw cuts, as the only machine big enough to handle that kind of load that I have access to is way to old and poorly maintained to the point where it just doesn't do it. -Tried a table saw jig, but somehow all the jigs are slightly angled, causing the cut to go stray. (all done on local wood shop grade C pine...$2 per 10', so plenty of practice material cheap) I'm at the point where I'm willing to try...but I'd like to finish one good guitar at least, so I'm looking to buy the scarfed blank for this one while I practice some more.

Hey All, I've built a couple of guitars, but usually using custom made necks, and I just can't seem to get the scarf joint to cut right, or look good. It's the actual cut that's the main problem. I was wondering if someone would cut (for a price) the scarf joints for me on a couple of necks blanks? Cheers.

I know this may sound wierd, but try looking at the EVH wolfgang (peavey) pickups. A guy on the forum is selling a set right now. I've used several of those pickups, and find them to be ridiculously clear and very versatile.

Bit confused as to the exact finish you are looking for. If you could point it out from here: http://www.warmoth.com/paint/paint.cfm Then we can work from there. Peace.

Forstner bit out the first half inch or so, and take 1/4" cuts for those two. Then just bump to full depth and take the remaining 1/8". In general, a good method to prolong bit life is to take out as much as possible (leaving a good 1/8" to 1/4") with the forstner bit, route that at 1/4" cuts, and take off the very bottom bit in 1/8" cuts. This way you're cutting at the maximum cutting depth you can, and due to the "pre-drilling" you end up cutting a lot less, prolonging tool life.

that actually looks like a nice guitar, just from the fretboard shot...mind showing us a full picture?