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guitar2005

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Everything posted by guitar2005

  1. guitar2005
    I would ditch the mokey grip.
  2. guitar2005
    Masking tape? That doesn't sound like a good idea. When the stud holes are a little loose, I add a bit of wood glue or CA.
  3. guitar2005
    I use the Allied Lutherie rods. Slightly shorter profile. Never went through.
  4. guitar2005
    Got more work done on this one. Its its the finishing stages. I'm applying Target Coatings EM6000 waterbased lacquer on this one. So far, so good. Its my first experience with this stuff and I'm spraying 5 guitars with it. Here are some pics of the body, curing. I'll let this one sit for a while. What you're seeing is the finish right off the gun. That's about 16 coats on there. This is my 1st time doing a bound body. Its turning out pretty good. Not perfect but definitely happy with the result.
  5. guitar2005
    Definitely keep the scratch plate, that combination works. Agreed. I like the mockup as is.
  6. guitar2005
    Hence, the dowels.
  7. guitar2005
    This one doesn't have a lot if side support because its a flying V. The real glue joint will the bottom of the neck heel route and the neck heel. That's why I was thinking Dowels, plus, square dowels could look real cool.
  8. guitar2005
    I'm thinking of upgrading the Gotoh bridge on my explorer to a Tonepros. Do you guys think it would be worth it? I think that the Gotoh could be robbing tone. I don't know.
  9. guitar2005
    I want to convert one of my builds from a bolt on to a set neck - kinda. The idea would be to take the neck out, clean the pocket route, glue the neck in and use hardwood dowels instead of screws. I think I'd prefer that look. What do you think? Should the dowels be strong enough?
  10. guitar2005
    MDF is one of the worst choices for a cab that you're going to use live and haul around. They tend to crumble after a while and they don't like humidity/water. A good void free plywood cab is the best IMO. Birch Ply is most commonly used but there's what they call Apple Ply.
  11. guitar2005
    Looks real slick. I like it.
  12. guitar2005
    I need some white binding that's 0.375" high. Anyone here have some they can sell me?
  13. guitar2005
    Drum sander is the way to go. Flame maple is especially sensitive.
  14. guitar2005
    How many coats of the EM6000 should I spray?
  15. guitar2005
    How many coats of the EM6000 should I spray?
  16. guitar2005
    Beautiful guitar. Is the binding around the pearl made out of wood? How do you bend that?
  17. guitar2005
    what's a pretboard?
  18. guitar2005
    Drak - are the black sides sprayed on or did you stain that? If you sprayed it on, did you mask the surrounding areas or went with an airbrush of soem sort?
  19. guitar2005
    I'm in Gatineau, Quebec Canada, near Ottawa Ont. A 3-1/4" wide x 5" long piece would be sufficient. thickness of 3/4" is also fine.
  20. guitar2005
    I have a body I got for free but the trem route hole is in the wrong spot. I'd like to fill this trem hole with a piece of Alder and re-do the route. The problem is that I can't get any Alder locally. Does anyone on here have a small piece of alder, anything, even a cutoff that would normally go in the trash would be good. Thanks
  21. guitar2005
    Around here, the going rate is 15% for less tan 1K and 10% over 1K.
  22. guitar2005
    Ouch! Looks like another disaster.
  23. guitar2005
    I cut the nut as low as possible and set the bridge height to get low action. The strings are always further away from the neck at the heel.
  24. guitar2005
    Could be old electrolytics, a bad solder joint or maybe some bad resistors. Hard to tell without the amp on the bench but if the amp is old, its always a good idea to replace all electrolytics. They have a finite life and as they dry out, their performance degrades to the point where they can short out and/or explode and bring a lot of other components with them.
  25. guitar2005
    Two things: 1) Is the neck flat? 2) the fretboard probably isn't flat so you can't use that as a guide. If the neck is not flat, I would personally glue a maple veneer on the neck face and use that as a base to fill any dip and flatten out humps. Also, if the truss rod isn't straight, you might have to replace that as well. For the veneer, you could add a 1/16" piece, up to 1/8" and run that over a jointer. That way, you'd have a solid surface to work with. That should bring the whole thing level with the rod.... but really, I wonder if all of this effort is really worth it, but I digress. Another thing: Does the fretboard have a locking nut shelf?
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