krazyderek

1/2, more surface area on the shank to grip and power the bit, plus the 2" length's only come in 1/2 inch shanks cause they need more torque woopse, didn't mean to reply for you there brian lol, just really bored tonight

the one i have has a 3/8 cutting diameter, and it's total length is 1 inch (cutting length + bearing), but i often i wish i had a longer one so i would recomend 1 and 1/4 or 1 and 1/2 bit length bit, brand doesn't really matter, price is pretty much you're main concern, one thing i have learned to look out for though, is make sure the cutter is as close to the bearing as bossible, if there's a gap it's going ot leave wood that will press against the shank and cause problems.... anyone know what i'm talkin about ?

the flush trim bit with the bearing at the end is going to be the most accurate way to copy the guitar, but like brian said you're sure to leave a line on the edge of the guitar where the bearing was pressing against the side of the guitar, that's why i always make my templates before i start painting just in case it turns out good and i want to make another one just like it, and yes, plexiglass is great for templates cause the see thru thing makes it easy to line everything up if you need to work with a small peice of wood.... or see the center line.... or what have you, the only thing i would say bad about it is that it's not to thick, so your first pass for cutting out the body with the template router bit is going to have to be pretty deep unless you have a really short cutting depth template bit..... i would recommend 1/2 inch plywood for the cheapest, yet best results, but that's just me

hmmm that's a good point john, i was thinking he was going to add the wood the the back of the neck which would be a near impossible task..... , adding it under the fretboard might work though, but then if you add to much you risk shaving off to much wood and runing into the truss rod channel on the back of the neck, and if you add to little you have to iron off the fretboard again, and add another peice of wood, then put the whole thing backtogether and reshape a bit more still keeping in mind that you don't want to take off to much from the center cause of the truss rod challen, but... if it's a thin neck then you might not be doing anything to the center just rounding the sides.... which might work.... hmm... all in all sounds like just as much work as building your own neck...

i think a complete schematic of the screws holes, and exact demensions of the pocket in relation to the location of the frets would be a good idea... whenever you get the time brian... thanks man

ok, well i don't want you guys to just be like "ya that'll probably work" but i thought up an idea for the chrome finish on guitars, let me know what you think, i'm open to critique, if anyone else has an idea of how to do it, please tell me ok, to a finished body (bare wood) 120 grit, 4 or 5 lite coats of sanding sealer, 200, primer, 320, primer, 400, chrome, 600, chrome, yada yada.... 2000 grit.. chrome, then buff and one last coat of chrome paint to get that mirror smoothness and look, then over that a couple coats of laquer, with wet sanding (about 600-800 grit -ish) after the first coat and before the last then 2000 grit wet sand buff again on a buffing wheel? i think the key is finding a good chrome paint that will actually refect an image, not just a dull chrome shaded colour.. i also have not been able to locate sed paint as of yet... anyone? does that sound about right? or completely wrong? i'm just kinda guessing, since it's 3:32am here,....

yes, make sure you have the right size allen key and put some muscle into it, bending wood with a rod isn't like turning a light on it takes quite a bit of force from my experiences, and yes, double truss rods are always a good idea unless you're **** about having a guitar that weight's less then a pound or 2...

glueing some wood well to the back of the neck is going to be pretty fun.... i doubt it would work at all, why not just get the neck you want in the first place instead of getting an ibanez neck you know you don't like and trying to turn it into something else you could just buy?

stewmac.com has everything for doing those, just look in the neck or truss rod section or try the search bar

just print it off using turbo cad 2 i just learned how with the help of some of you guys, but it does take a while to tape all the pages together correctly, then cut out the shape and using the center lines on both guitars compare shape. One more thing, you're not going to be able to place the bridge and the pickups like they are on the JS model's cause the neck only has 21 frets where as the RG almost certainly has 24, it's something alot of poeple over look, so you're going to have to move the JS design around on your RG once you add the wood the the horns and figure out what you want to shave off where to get the best looking JS/RG highbrid

The bottom picture of the three chrome JS model's has a great angle for showing the contours on the top of the guitar, you're still going to be guessing but this will probably help as i have yet to see any designs for the carving or rounding of the top of the guitar, any body got those? And does anyone know how to get that chrome mirror finish? i read that article on with the sheet metal or something but i want to try using actual paint to try and get the same results as the real thing...

woopse, k thanks, that explains it

oh yes i know..... but i meant to use the double truss rod ALONG WITH 2 carbon rod's...

ok, well i seem to be having re occuring problems with this site, both the forums and the projectguitar.com site especially with the tutorials, and all the pics, it sometimes takes upwards of 5 or 10 minutes for all the pics on pages to completely load, i feel like i'm on pre-dial up internet... like mors code internet or something... but i mean this is the only site that i surf and it crawls ( yes i'm on cable internet) , i tried turning off my adsubtract pro, pop up blocker and that helped a little bit, any clue as to what's my or the site's problem???? anyone else get this at all?

isn't the top kinda carved? espacially on the left side of the pickups ( the side without volume knobs if it's a right hander's guitar) hence they say it has an "aerofoil shape" you might end up kinda guessing that parts based on the pics on the ibanez website...

well just buy the wood, and plane it so it's nice and uniformely thick and smooth and glue it to the top of the body using some clamps and some 2x4's on they're sides so you get like a couple nice clamps going on and then clamp all the edges and for the forearm curve...well i guess you're going to have to figure out some way to iron and bend the wood or something if you don't get a peice thick enough.... ?? i duno, hope that helps...

how are you guys printing these designs off in the correct size? where do you get paper that big? or a printer for that matter?

yes, unless you want to keep weight down.... if weather is a problem for you and it keeps throwing your guitar necks slightly off you should look at some additional carbon fiber rods to be placed on either side of the truss rod channel i have never used them, but i hear they do wounders for rigidity in the neck such that you don't need to re-setup the guitar every summer and winter and if you travel...

yup, that's all i've been doing, the whole point of a double truss rod is to have complete control over the movement of the neck, some necks may warp shortly or a while after they're made, this is usualy known as "bowing" and it if bows up, then a traditional truss rod will do absolutely nothing to correct this thus the neck is garbage, but say you have a neck that's bowed up and you have a double truss rod you can adjust the rod to flatten the neck back out so it's playable so the short of it is that a double rod is adjustable 2 ways where as traditional ones are only 1 way adjustable..

nice.... i wonder if i can get some of that angire wood... and how much it is... nice looking guitar, looks like it's really made with the player in mind!

good call brian... although some poeple might get lost in all that mumbo jumbo.... i tried to sift through all the crap and just take out the important stuff and put it in the .doc word file..

did you already sift through all the posts in the pinned. trem route cavity post above?

yes! my mexican telecaster has a maple neck and fretboard all in one! i think they put it in through the back although i'm not sure. no no.... i know i have a tele with the skunk stripe, but i have no idea how that relates to what i said... ? by "hide it" i meant the dirt on the fretboard when using a rosewood fingerboard

wha?

lol thank's brian, i sent it to the 2 before the last two here.. lol.... ya, but we should keep things "under the table" just incase.... don't want to go to jail over a guitar.... although i am in canada.... so i'd like to see them try and arrest me with the border being a province away.. so ya, everyone just keep forwarding it to whom ever, but remember, for personal use only, and you can't reproduce it for profit.... so if you run a storel, you can't advertise it, but if someone wants it done you can do it for free