krazyderek

yes, a peice scotch tape, or really any tape at all will do,

*cough router tutorial cough*

by 2.2 percent of the distance, and it does help i do this on all my necks, it makes a noticable difference.

Have you checked the bodies for sale in the classifieds, ? http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=9483 http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=8392 Also check ebay for some bodies, might be easier to just buy one then get the templates for it.

tele's and les pauls are fairly different in thickness as i remember, with the les paul being a bit thicker... something like 1.75" + a 1/4" maple top? can't remember exactly. You're probably better off swapping for the 2" peice of wood. Alwasy good to have to much then not enough.

Yes this is an accurate way, the 25.25 measurement is to the bridge posts which are roughly 0.2" away from the saddles and giving you 0.05" room of play to adjust the intonation. A regular aluminium meter stick will be find for this measurment, although it's always best to measure with several different devices just to make sure. And be sure to measure on the fretboard side of the nut slot to the center of the post holes, like so unless the instructions say otherwise

I thought the same thing when i first started getting geared up for making guitars. Several frusterated hours later i returned the dozuki saw cause it didn't have the proper curf for the fret wire i wanted to use ( 0.023" ) Cutting fret slots needs to be done incredibly accurately, which as i also learned is extremely hard with standard miter boxes or a carpenters square. I ended up just buying the stew mac fret miter box. Although it took over an hour to get setup properly it was well worth it, every fret slot was PERFECTLY parallel. Eventually i just ended up getting the table saw blade, it pays for it's self almost after one fret board in time saved. There is some wire that has a tang width of 0.019 but you want to make sure it is, and use only that wire with your current saw otherwise you'll be rolling down a hill in a one wheel wagon. Even a difference of 0.005 can cause serious problems down the road when trying to get your neck to stay nice and staight to get good action.

pretty cool, last i heard they had been looking for a vocalist. I also think wes baught that guitar pre glued and is just going the paint and assembly, the fact that there isn't a single tool in the backround seems to support that fact and for some reason i seem to remember reading it was a kit guitar some friend of his had made him.

my squire strat had a slightly shorter scale then the actual 25.5" scale aswell, i think there's actually 2 versions of that scale, the 25.4", and 25.511". Therefore my theory is that some of the squire strats fingerboards where cut on the 25.4 scale, it would seem to fit the facts. I later replaced this fingerboard with a 25.511 scale board and had no problems on the guitar.

Naw that sucked ass.... Here's something else i've been working on, i love my new rythm tone Derek - In Love 2mb (high speed internet, high quality) Derek - In Love 500kb (dial up, low quality) The rythm is my Roland amp plugged in direct, and the lead is a generic marshall patch. As usualy just doing everything on my Zoom workstation and importing into sound forge for final tweaks and saving. (ps, no making fun of the song name, i was thinking about my girl the whole time i recorded this )

watch a paul gilbert video a coulpe times...

you can also crawl the jemsite.com page they have specs on pretty much every ibanez guitar

then you should take your neck blank down to the caledonian joiners, you're supposed to joint then plane your neck blank to get a good square peice of wood. This has to be done before or after you glue the fingerboard on BUT before the fingerboard is radiused and fretted.

i beleive it's 4 power amp tubes, getting EL34's in, he said he doesn't charge for the re-bias. He's also going to give the head a complete look over and let me know if there's anything he would suggest fixing. He also said he only uses grove tubes cause of the 3 month full set replacement warantee.

they work fine, and thank god they switched to metal templates, the acrylics ones had a tendency to crack and even snap in half when trying to peel them apart from the fingerboard. the most important thing if you're going to use a table saw, apart from the right blade and have a good tight miter fence, is to joint and plane the peice of wood to attach to the miter fence, and to make sure you joint the edge of the fingerboard before slotting, last thing you want is a pivot point, half way thru fretting you want all your frets perfectly parallel for the best possible intonation.

So i took my new carvin amp over to one of the local amp guys, he's supposed to be the best around here. Befor dropping my amp off for an estimate and look over, he said a retubing usualy runs 120$ (90$US) everything included. As much as i'd love to spend an hour crawling google, just wondering how much you guys usualy pay for getting your amp re-tubed?

that's how many of the big companies make most of their production model guitars, just stick a peice of wood in the machine and out comes a guitar body ready for paint.

pretty cool, do you have some kind of huge dust collection nozzle in the tarp area? you should consider that if you went thru all the trouble of building it.., i mean it basicly looks like a down draft table with a hood over it...... and minus the down draft part lol

your first question is kinda fuzzy..... you have to rout the correct depth for a pickup... a good rule of thumb is it has to be at least deep as the pickup. Of course the shape of the rout would be the shape of the pickup + 1/16" (at least) space around the edge of that shape. no, no need to rout for most fixed bridges, unless you're recessing it into the guitar for alginment (action) purposes again the proper routing for a tele bridge pickup is just the shape of the pickup's baseplate + a space around that for play, check Drak's tele pics to see what i mean. You don't want a parking garage under the bridge just cause it covers a fair amount of space compared to other bridges

or not, woke up the next morning, figured out it sucked.... my bad...

nice try litch so who actually voted 2 peice? one person did

just make sure they're the right size, check as many measurements on the page with an actual ruler, it would suck to get stuck with a blank that was to small once you do get your templates.

measuring the perimeter of my tele i got 54 inches (four and a half feet), that's taking into account the cut away aswell, so i'd say get 5 feet or more to give yourself so room to play with it.

there's no reason you can't make a guitar in 2 days....the part that needs tools at least.... like erikbojerik said, just wait for the templates... you know you need a glued up blank that measures at least 14"x18" x1.75" cuff cutting, shaping, routing, and drilling a body takes a bout 3 hours with the right tools... especially a tele, since there won't be a arm rest of gut cut that's half the work right there. same thing with the neck, if you already have the blank glued up and planed to proper thickness it would take less then an hour to rout the truss rod slot and rout out the shape of the neck, then glue on your fretboard (i'm asuuming you got a preslotted and radiused board) Slapping those templates on and using a good sharp template or flush trim bit will take no time at all. Just make sure you ruff cut the body and neck shape once you get the templates in THEN rout, it will help prevent tear out, and reduce wear and routing time. Again easily do-able in 2 days, after that all you need is a spokeshave, some sand paper, maybe a drill, and a radius sanding block for radiusing.Fretting and finishing the guitar doesn't really require wood working tools other then a fretting hammer.

smart words guys, i tend to agree, what's so important thatit can't wait for the proper tools and blueprints/ templates?