Pott

It shall be mine. Oh yes. It shall be nice. Great work Mr inventor. I hope it brings you wealth, recognition, and less emails It indeed must have been hell for you. Trust me though, it's not easy for us to wait either I'd need 2 of these.

The pot in another guitar worked fine, but now it doesn't change much to the volume until it reaches about 2 or 1, then cuts abruptly. I'm thinking I need to swap out the wiper and resistor wires? I use it as volume, and everything else is wired correctly.

...Wow... I gotta get me some of that virgin blood. As always, amazing looking work. I'd give a lot to go to your guitar building school.

Yep you read it right. There are 2 main French electric guitar brands, and I'd like you guys to have a look. They're expensive, beautiful, and everyone I know agrees, astonishing quality. They're called Lag, and Vigier *dun dun* http://www.lag.fr/ http://www.laboitenoire.net/images/produit...-AP2000-RBS.jpg http://www.laboitenoire.net/images/produit...E-AF200-RBS.jpg http://www.laboitenoire.net/images/produit...-RP2000-RBS.jpg http://www.laboitenoire.net/images/produit...-RP2000-BSH.jpg Vigier: http://www.vigierguitars.com/ I don't like the look of their guitars too much... http://www.htd.fr/images/images%20accueil/Vigier/vigier.jpg http://namm.harmony-central.com/WNAMM05/Co...awn-Lane-lg.jpg Their vibrato units work on rollbearings (a bit like Ibanez's S series Floyds, though it's a bit different from what I gather) Got GAS?

I think I finalized the design... 6 strings Neck thru maple/walnut/maple (for looks) Mahogany wings Quilt maple top on the curvy part under the pearloid Pearloid pickguard (not cut in the middle like on Uli Jon Roth's guitar) maple fingerboard, slanted at the end for 27 frets on the high e 26.6'' scale The guitar will be painted in transparent blue so that the quilt shows. I want the quilt for the Maple/Mahogany configuration... Headstock design to be determined On the top horn there'll be a 3 way toggle instead of Roth's gem. On the lower side of the pickguard, there'll be 2 volume controls and a mini toggle split It'll have a 2 point fulcrum trem, non locking, with a graphite nut, non angled headstock and tremolno (since I'm not sure in what tuning I'll keep it) Pickups will be a Seymour Duncan Custom at the bridge and a SCR1 coolrails at the neck, slanted along the fingerboard end, in the pickguard The guitar probably will be a little smaller than Roth's though, his is huge... If anyone has the guitar as a plan or something for photoshop, I wouldn't mind a mockup... I'd have no idea how to do this myself and I can't find a plan I wouldn't want to bother anyone with it though.

The frets won't be fanned, just the end of the fingerboard will be slanted, like on on Jackson USA Warriors. And I had planned on making a plywood jig before hand, just to be sure. I will do the plans and everything else, for the sake of security (and I'd feel awkward drawing on wood so I'll try and do that the least possible )

Well for this summer project, I went from Soloist, to Tele, to Soloist, to a guitar with the shape of Uli Jon Roth's. Don't worry I'll porsonalize it. It shall be neck through, still with maple neck and center, and Mahogany wings. I may modify the shape slightly by adding another horn/cutaway, but before that I was wondering if there are any plans anywhere, just with basic dimensions so I would be able to draw the shape more accurately. Oh and I think it'll just have 27 frets, the last ones being slanted. I won't do the whole... 31 or so Mr Roth has... ouch. Eh I just thought through it more... That silver thing, I could use pickguard material, route the top for a standard toggle 3 way switch, and just do a little wiring channel to the pots which would be at the other end of the pickguard, or rear routed. I like the controls the way they are on his guitar though so I'd probably just place them there. Going to be simpler though. I also have a cool crescent like design for the headstock. OOOOH and it's going to have a Floyd with a tremolno... Yuuuum... A humbucker at the bridge and a slanted single (to follow the fretboard). DAMN I wish I knew anything about photoshop so I could try the designs I have in mind

Pics? And how much would you want? Also, it's not for too soon. I just found out that I need my paypal verified or something, I have only 320 euros left that I can send on it (I only ever used the credit card before) which probably WILL be a problem How does the body resonate? I'm still looking for options for the time being guys.

I'm looking for a next guitar project, and I really really want it to be a neck thru guitar. If you have any model 5, 6, or Soloist (Japanese, USA, or even ESP, or heck, even handmade if i like it) bodies/neck (together of course haha) that are either in very bad shape and need some loving, or that have no hardware or even no paint, I'd be ready to unload it. I'm looking at anything under 400 dollars. It's not much, but I know there are deals like this out there. It's also to be shipped to Europe, so beware USA people. Thanks guys!

I wouldn't mind seeing pics

Nah the Floyd would be the budget option, to facilitate things.

I think I know how to do that. Either way I ordered the Hiscock book yesterday so it should be there tomorrow at my new flat when I arrive. I just was looking for an alternative to it. I could go VERY 80s and install a recessed (ok, not so 80s after all) Floyd and a single angled humbucker...mhmmmmm... Seems like the easy way out really.

It probably is what I'll end up doing anyway. But getting a TOM with non filed saddles already limits me...

For my guitar building project I was thinking about a one pickup soloist, with TOM. Of course that'd limit me for clean tones so maybe a piezo would work well? For the pup I'm very tempted about the DiMarzio dropsonic, and both coils will be selectable. It will only have a volume control and the piezo will just keep its standard controls. I was thinking about this one? http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailp...ne-o-matic.html but they don't have black The guitar will be a maple/ebony neckthru with Mahogany wings. The piezo may be a bit expensive. In this case do you guys know of any low profile (to maybe not have to angle the neck down) TOM or wraparound bridges? Right now I have a non recessed Floyd and while I like the feel of it, angling a neck thru guitar neck may be a little hard for a first timer. Maybe this TOM? http://store.guitarfetish.com/blviabstbrwi.html? Though the inserts seem not to be delivered with it... Oh and I'm leaving in a few hours to Edinburgh where I'll be Internet less for a bit. I may try and go to an Internet cofee sometimes and pay a visit here. So yeah if you have any suggestions do it fast haha! It'll be hard to live a month without the Internet! So I say goodbye here just in case noone replies before I leave hehe...

ah I see... so I should aim for a 16 radius...? Isn't that a little... flat haha? TOMs and such are usually about 12

Assuming you have a 16/10 fingerboard... What radius do you need for the bridge? Would any work, or would some simply work better? I did order the book so no worries, I'll read it when I get it, it may not be for a bit and I'll be Internet less for a month or so starting tomorrow, so I thought I'd ask here... quicker, easier and I know I can trust you guys. Edit: typo, radiuS on the title... stupid me.

Alright... I guess I have all I need to make a first eff up and then try again! Another question: it's possible to get a non angled neck with a TOM I guess, if I recess the TOM. With a router and a good plan, this shouldn't be too hard right? I route to small circles wide enough to accep the inserts, about 5mm deep (determined by the diagram I'll do), then drill for the inserts and install the TOM normally? Is this a hard operation with a router? How do you get on angling a neck through if you do not recess the TOM? This probably is in the book but I may not be able to get it unless I find it in a library (unlikely...). My vision of the thing is that you see what amount of thickness you have left between the neck and the wings, angle the neck portion down to the proper angle and then sand down the body portion flat to the wing's thickness? That means though that if the neck/center section is already thicknessed to the body wings and I angle down the neck portion, the action will be even higher doesn't it? Should I then make sure I have a thicker center section?

They don't do compound radius it seems. It's not on their catalogue at least..

WOAAA Are these new? I didn't see them last time I checked! Thanks dude!

I'm looking for a website that'd sell 12/16 or 10/16 compound radiused fingerboard, already slotted and if possible with a choice of wood grades. I'd probably be the only non scratch made part on the guitar so I'd rather have it good hehe... I'd probably get lower grade ebony and then maybe dye it if it's too light. Thanks if you know any! So far my search has been unfruitful but I'm pretty sure I heard of one place that'd do that, I just can't find it.

Dank u wel! I wanted to do the very rough shaping with the neck unglued (smaller = easier to find a place where to do this. I'll live in a flat with limited space) but not go as far as the heel and headstock. The routing will be done before I glue the neck in, as I'll use the squared edges of the neck as a routing edge for the router. Then I'd just cut it to the proper dimensions, do a very rough shaping of the back and then glue it. I guess it doens't matter that much if you glue on the fingerboard before or after right? What does tapering mean..?

Bienvenu ici, je suis Francais aussi

Well I have yet to get 'the book' but I figured I could start planning without it and see how it'd look from there. The project will be a neck through, 24 frets, 25.5" scale guitar. For the designs, I can't chose between a Mockingbird or a soloist style axe with ESP's headstock (inspired by ESP's M series and Rhoads65's Weapon of Mass Destruction). The Mockingbird would be painted naturally, the soloist all in black. I'll be using grade B wood from luthiersupply. Has anyone got experience with it? Would grade B just not look as good as grade AA, but sound the same, or is it less resonant too? Anyhoo either way, the specs would be Maple neck with a striped of walnut in the middle Mahogany wings 2 humbuckers 2 volume controls, 1 tone control, a 5 way megaswitch TOM string through bridge Both shapes are fairly easy to to shape I believe, though of course the Mockingbird will be harder due to its shape. I'm not too affraid of it though. I'm going to order a template (50 bucks but well... needed I guess) since I don't know anyone in Edinburgh with either guitars and I suck with a pencil. Here's a list of (basic steps) I'll take: 1) buy the bridge, check the height etc... 2) draw a real life plan of the guitar (or a half scale, if I don't have room) and figure out the neck angle for a string height of 1.75mm. 3) assemble the 5 pieces (3 pieces for the neck and 2 for the wings) without gluing, draw the shapes 4) plane the neck down for its proper angle, check if I'll have enough room for a non scarf neck joint 5) shape the wings 6) use the neck's straight edge to route the truss rod channel (tight but fit), cut the neck to its nut/butt width (I'd take the measurements from my Charvel's necks) 7) do the same to the fingerboard (which will be preslotted, I'm lazy and I want to be able to play it ) 8) get the neck ready for the headstock shaping, rough cutting of it 9) put the special thingy on top of the truss rod, glue the fingerboard on, fine cut the neck to its proper dimensions, do a rough backshaping of it, drill the neck's sidedots holes drilled, put the sidedots onget 10) assemble the wings to the body 11) finish the body: heel, forearm and belly contours, fine cutting, neck backshape and bevelling the edges a bit. 12) take care of the electronics cavity at the back (smaller as possible, but with comfortable room for wiring etc...) 13) triple check everything before drilling anything else, take the measurements again, route the pickup holes, drill the holes for the TOM and strings, controls, etc... 14) triple check everything 15) fretting it 16) string it up, wire it, try, put the hardware (tuners, nut...) on it and play it (eh just for fun and to make myself happy) 17) strip it down, cover up the fingerboard and frets properly 18) spray clear coat, primer, sealer, paint, or whatever has to be sprayed first, let it dry however long it takes, repeat until it's painted using the proper steps 19) check for accumulated paint in the holes, fix if problems 20) shielding, hardware, wiring, pickups, tuners, etc... 21) play it! And here are the questions... Is it better to paint the neck and headstock before or after having put on the nut? I'm thinking that if you do it before, you can cover up the neck's edge and paint UNDER the nut too, cleaning up a bit the area. If you do it after you can cover up the nut and yeah... I see no difference, maybe there just isn't any... I didn't mention stuff like drilling tuner holes because it goes in the headstock prep for me. But I didn't forget. When I do a proper big plan on a paper list which will be pinned everywhere where I live, it'll be there and there'll be about 40 steps or so If you see anything totally wrong, feel free to tell If you have any suggestions, also feel free. Thanks!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BRAND-NEW-IN-BOX-RYO...1QQcmdZViewItem is that the one good ebay Ryiobi that I should aim at?

Ohhh my bad, duh! I thought you were talking about the GT8 and the Pod XT live. DUH stupid me! I think the GTpro is indeed a little better than the GT8. But you do get a floorboard with both the POD XTlive and the GT8. I personally think it's better but it depends on your uses for it I guess. I think the rack versions have more connectivity. Sorry again for my stupidity!