sunday_luthier

I recently had issues spraying automotive clear which never dried, stayed soft for months, and I got tiny white dots in the finish which I will eventually start over. Turns out I didn't have a moisture trap in my spraying setup (a big no-no that was probably the reason I got those dots). Anyway, I went to my local car supply store to buy some clear and explained to he guy my problem with curing time. Turns out that when they sell you automotive lacquer, they assume you are going to spray it in an spraying oven. I have to specify "fast curing" to get stuff that dries in a decent amount of

I voted for the Humingbird bass, but I wanted to comment on a couple of other builds. Boggs, I really appreciate that your designs are unique and may not appeal to some but they are immediately recognizable as your own. But to me, the use of a "stock" strat pickguard kind of ruins it, especially since it doesn't really flow with the contour of your original body shape. Mefgames, it looks like a fantastic build, but I find it shocking that you don't acknowledge that it's a Klein copy. Nothing wrong with building copies in my book, although it has sometimes been debated, but I think ment

Well, I voted for myself, so... thanks to the other guy :-) No shame in losing knowing who I was up against. Cheers,

The Bumble-B Body - Sapele Top - Figured wild cherry Neck - Sipo Fingerboard - Ebony Bridge - Hipshot Baby Grand Neck pickup - Gibson 496R Bridge pickup - Gibson 500T Electro - 1 volume, 1 tone, 1 switch Body Finish - Tainted acrylic Neck Finish - oil & wax Build thread

I aim to please... BTW, thanks for all the kind comments. I sprayed my last coats. After I level-sanded the sealer, I covered the sipo back with masking tape and sprayed a coat of tinted orange automotive lacquer on the wild cherry top and immediately removed the masking tape. I sprayed two coats of clear to "catch up" to the ridge created by the tinted coat before level-sanding with 320-grit paper. Here are the pics after spraying 3 clear top coats : The flashy orange looks that way because of the... flash. It's actually a bit milder. When dry, the dreaded buffing and po

Hi-tone's was a very close second for me, but I had to go with the simple elegance of Simo's design. Cheers,

Slowly getting back to business. Two coats of sealer : Grain-filling on the sipo back. The cherry is close-grained Light sanding with 320-grit. A few tint tests : I wasn't sure wether I wanted to make it blue or yellow... It will be yellow. Cheers,

Done !

This one's called the "Busy-B" Sapele body and neck Neck-thru construction Flame Teak top Fanned frets Individual ABM bridges Grover tuners DiMarzio DLX Plus in bridge position DiMarzio Virtual P90 in neck position Toggle switch and single volume knob Built this guitar a while back but never got around to showing it on PG until It needed a trussrod and fingerboard replacement. The thread :

Oiling her back up. It's a real joy to see all sanding marks magically disappear with just a little oil, the guitar immediately looks like it did before starting the repair : Back view : I glued the same nut back onto the neck : New jack : It will be soon Cheers,

Fretting : Fixing a chip with a mixture of ebony dust and super glue : I felt the flat triangle behind the nut was a bit strange as the neck-head transition. So I gleud a small piece of ebony veneer to make it look rather like ax extension of the fingerboard : I had to scrape and sand the guitar top slightly as I had made saw marks while deepening the last fret slots : I also made a new, bigger jack hole for a new jack plate : Cheers,

Glue joint turned out pretty nice... Not perfect but close enough, considering the neck I had to work with. Neck is straight and the trussrod works, hip hip hurray! After scraping and sanding the neck and fingerboard sides, sanding the top of the fingerboard with a sanding stick, 80-grit to 400-grit. Brushing the fingerboard and sanding stick often to prevent dust build-up and premature sandpaper wear : Cleaning and deepening the fret slots : Cheers,

Got the new trussrod in the mail. Luckily, it's the same length as my channel, so I only need to widen and deepen the channel very slightly for the adjustment nut : Widening the channel at the nut with a chisel : If the rod fits... The nut is even aligned with the former rod's adjustment hole I had drilled through the head. Could things finally be going my way? : Slightly scraping the upper "horn" free of sanding marks : I made a dozen angled cauls to support the neck while glueing the new fingerboard : The angled cauls allow me to somewhat adjust the bow of the n

The problem was actually that the steam deformed the wood. I should have waited a bit before rushing forward, but I didn't. I planed the neck flat again, and this is what I discovered a few days later : Had I waited, it probably would have gone back to flat. To avoid planeing again (and reducing the neck width, I glued a mahogany overlay strip onto the center line and planed that flat : The olf fingerboard was obviously only good for burning now, so I made a new fingerboard (BTW, did I mention it was a fanned fret guitar? All the more fun!) My new fingerboard blank was v

I built this guitar a few years ago. I installed a homemade aluminium "U-channel" trussrod. After a few years, the neck had acquired a significant up-bow. Adjusting the trussrod did nothing. In fact, no matter how tight I turned it, it would rattle... not good. The plan : remove the fingerboard, change the trussrod, glue the fingerboard back on. The plan is simple, but reality is not. I started by defretting. Then, I drilled a bunch of small holes in the fingerboard to make way for the steam that would loosen the fingerboard glue joint, and started ironing the guitar :