Grim

Went to change the blade on my new bandsaw for the first time today, wanted to get a bigger blade in there for resaw (laminate necks). Those coiled up blades have a bunch of stored energy in 'em. Pop! A couple of little cuts in my thumb, but dang, I should've seen that one coming. Just thought I'd share. Grim

Richie, I would guess that a reduced acrylic finish would suffice in a pinch, perhaps even following the formula of 15%, 30%, 45%, and then perhaps even finishing the wood with the same base acrylic finish after the moisture has dissipated from the wood. I'm no expert, but one of the things I've discovered is that there are alot of ways that will work, and acrylics have a lot of common properties for stabilizing woods. Grim

I've got several spalted tops I'm getting around to. Part of my problem is my need to over research the issue. I'm applying Polycryl to my spalted tops, both tops and bottoms. Firat apply a 15% solution, then a 30%, then a 45%. Apply, let sit in plastic overnight, then do the next application the next day. You are adding moisture to the wod, so be sure to let it dry out completely before working it. It can be glued, but you should mae sure it's completely dry before gluing or finishing. I'll let you all know how my experiment works out, but it looks OK so far... oh, and don't do one side thinking that "I'm gluing the other side, so I don't need to put the acrylic on that side". It'll warp the heck out of your wood. Polycryl FAQ

I learned my lesson. Bought the small benchtop Ryobi, and there's no way I'm going to try a two inch thick piece of purpleheart on that. Just made a trip to Springfield, MO. Picked up one of these... 14" Bandsaw - 1 1/2 HP! Also pickup a reference table... makes sanding things perfectly flat alot easier... but damn, the piece of granite weighs 120 pounds! Getting the shop where I want it.. then time to get down to some serious work.

Rule No. 1: Make yourself happy. One thing I agree with on a couple of comments - the body of the guitar is fairly symetric, so that symetry ought to be reflected in the headstock as well. Looks to me that the top curve from away from the nut is a less severe than the lower curve going away from the nut, so it just doesn't jibe with my senese of gestalt. Know what I mean, Vern? Grim

I'e had good luck picking up wood in Kansas City at the Woodcraft store, and they are a chain. If you can get over to the website (www.woodcraft.com), you can use the store locator. Also, if you check with your local cabinetry outfits, they have lots of experience dealing with the millworks. There's one here in the KC area called Paxton Woods, and I know they have offices throughout the midwest. I've been able to get Padauk, Mahogany, and recently Woodcraft was offering Bubinga. It's worth checking out...

Doc, Already took the advice you gave in a previous post. As a starter, I shopped around, and when you can get a better than average router for minimal outlay, I had to jump. Yeah, it's factory-reconditioned and warranteedd for a year and comes with both bases. 2.25 horses should be all I'll need to get going, and I know my little shop is going to evolve - and I'll need my forearms to evolve before I feel comfortable wrapping my mits around a 3-hp router. Your advice is appreciated. I picked up a Rousseau Table plate, working on my router table this weekend and next. I will be taking 2 pieces of 24 x 48 MDF and gluing them together, mounting legs and tracks and building a fence. Sometimes it's nice having a wife with a PhD in Mechanical Engineering, and she's giving me some great advice too. Baby steppin', Grim

You'll obviously need to get a new routing table if you go that route. I'd be more than happy to help you clear out some space in your shop by relieving you of that old router table you won't be needing...

Took my plunge into the world of routers. Amazon had a factory-reconditioned Bosch 1617 2-HP with both the plunge and fixed bases for about $140.00. I saw the 3 HP Makita and decided to get it when I want to build something really dangerous - and that will be awhile. I'm taking jay5's advice, and I'll build my own router table... might even get oe of those lift things for Christmas too. Thanks for all the help.

I've learned alot from all of the posts in this thread. It helps me a great deal. I'm just starting out and I have a lot to learn, but I'd rather listen at the knee of vets and make fewer mistakes, rather than go off half-cocked and end up with the nick name "8-Finger Bob" . I love jay5's router table. But ESP? No PRS stickers around? I'd like to also thank Doc for the router advice. I've got lots of experience with routers, but they usually have the name Cisco on there somewhere.

Newbie here, working on my 2nd guitar. First one really doesn't count as it was a Warmoth Neck & Body, and I did none of the cutting, trimming, sanding or finishing. I have decided that I my approach will be pretty basic. I'll use a router and router table to cut the initial outline, and get as deep as I can with the router ( all the way through with 1" billets, but I've got 3 2" billets that will need to be cut multiple times to get all the way through). I've currently got an old router my dad gave me, an old Sears Craftsman 1 3/4 HP that's about 20 years old, and a small router table. I'm considering making a major investment in a new router and router table. The testosterone voice tells me to get a 3 HP Router from hell that can cut through purpleheart like it's butter. Get a BenchDog routing table with the lifting system, soundproof the interior of the routing table to cut down on noise. The beancounter voice in my head is telling me to get by with the router I've got until I'm better at this whole electric guitar thing. If I choose to upgrade anything, upgrade the desktop drill press to one that can take a 3/8" shank on a robo-sander. Use the router to rough the outline, then use the robosander on the drill press to get a tighter tolerance around my template. What are y'all using for routers, routing tables and the like? Sincerely, Grim