vaxination

dude, your not gonna last long on this forum with that attitude! be sure to give us all the details and, as you have read from the other replies... be specific.

i went ahead and purchased the bandsaw from sears and the thing is great. all the guides are fully adjustable. sure is a big difference from my old cheap P.O.C. bandsaw. as for grizzly... since i live in hawaii, shipping a bandsaw that size is out of the question!

yeah, i know what you mean. i was initially going to go for the jet. however, after seeing the resaw capability of the crafstman (carba-tec) without risers, i had to look into it. as for the 8" resaw, i can get a full 8" under it. for myself, however, most all of my resawing will be around 7". the roller guide assemblies looks pretty good quality. i am not sure if it can take carter upgrades... i will have to look into that. thanks for the tip about the vacuum when resawing large boards. i normally keep the vacuum connected to the dust port, however, i will make sure to keep one at the blade also. i just cut out a body blank this morning and the difference is like night and day compared to the P.O.C. 10 in. "hobby" bandsaw i was using! ok, now i gotta save up for the drum sander!

hi dayvo, i am originally from molokai, hawaii. however, i now live in honolulu. i visited australia (perth) a couple of times myself as part of a military flight crew. i've also been to an australian territory island in the indian ocean... cocos islands. both perth and cocos was beautiful . anyway, back to the guitar building... thanks for the info about carba-tec. i think the bandsaw will work out fine and i am excited about being able to do some decent resawing.

i just noticed that the mfr's model number (BAS350) is listed right next to the sears item number. so i did a search and i found out that the bandsaw is made by carba-tec, an australian company. here is the same bandsaw on carba-tec's site... click here! anyway, i went down to sears and i purchased it. i still have to go to the warehouse to pick it up (they did not have it in the stock room at the store i went to). so, i can still get my money back if this was a bad decision. its just that having an 8" resaw capability will be nice. anyway, if anyone has heard anything about carba-tec, or as per my previous email, if you have opinions, please share! maybe some of our australian members can shed some light on the company (carba-tec) or the bandsaw itself.

ok, so i need to get a new bandsaw. my little 10" P.O.C. bandsaw has finally come to the end of its useless life. the selections for bandsaws are not that great here in hawaii. however, there is a woodcraft here that sells jet 14" and delta 14". i was going to go ahead and get the jet, but i stopped by sears and they had this... click here! this craftsman bandsaw has a 8" resaw capability and the jet only has a 6" resaw capability. having an 8" resaw capability really expands my ability to slice my own body woods and tops. has anyone had any experience with this craftsman bandsaw or does anyone have any constructive opinions to offer? please don't say, "get a 16" (or above) bandsaw" or "get a _____ brand" or "order one from _____" because i want to stay within 14" (affordable) and since i live in hawaii, craftsman, jet & delta are my only real options. also, i can't economically order one and have it shipped here because shipping a bandsaw to hawaii would cost almost as much as the bandsaw.

what?!?!

wow! anyone one of those alone would be a major purchase! outstanding... now build, build, build!

well it seems that i lot of people have various ways to get the job done. however, i think verhoevenc came up with a cool DIY jig and it was nice of him to share it with us!

thanks... interesting and different. looks pretty nice with the dye. do u know if this type of wood required grain filling?

very nice results!

are you going to use spray equipment or are you looking for rattle can stuff?

setch, i am basically in the same situation as you described. living in hawaii, i don't have many of the products available locally and since flammable products can't ship by air, i can't order the products online. just curious... what do you use for polishing using a foam pad and hand polishing? for that matter, the rest of the forum members can chime in too.

hey maiden69, i was reading some of your past posts and noticed that you like recessed toms (i also like that look too) and prefer no neck angle. in the axe you posted in this thread, you have a recessed tom... were you also able to keep a zero neck angle on this axe too? btw, this is the same concept i want to do with my current project... carve top, low profile bridge and no neck angle.

ok, actually, now that i think about it i've seen more than one... prs epiphone lp variax 700 however, if you know of any others, please list it here (or put up some pics) ! maiden69... that is jaw dropping! has that ever been a gotm? if not, it should be! i want to make a bolt-on carve top, however, i needed some examples and inspiration. that is total inspiration.

do any of you have pictures of carve top bodies designed with bolt-on necks or have links to guitars with that type of design? i have seen one, however, i would like to see examples of more.

actually, i have the post to post width (which happens to be the same as the outer screw width). however, i am curious of the actual location of the holes to the body. the reason i ask is that the stewmac trem templates show the wilkinson 2 post hole locations to be about 2mm to right of the vintage screw holes, however, when measuring, it seems like the screw holes center up fine with the 2 point trem. i just don't think i know more than stewmac, however, my measurements seem to tell me different. oh, btw, i am using a lr baggs x-bridge which should be a direct replacement for a strat 2 point trem. am i splitting hairs here?

i have a strat template (from gutiarbuilding templates) that has the cavity positions (pups and trem). the cavity for the trem is for the vintage style 6 screw trem. i have a 2 post strat trem that i would like to use. my question... will using the 2 outer screw holes be the correct positions for the 2 post holes?

i know mango wood has been used on ukulele's, however, have any of you ever used it for building an electric guitar? if so, does it need grain filling? is it an easy wood to work with? what is your opinion on the tone. searching has yielded very little.

oh, i also drew out the neck taper using 1/8" for the "E" strings from the edge of neck to the string spread of the bridge.

ok, i drew out different views. top view and side view of the guitar at full size. i also made another drawing like the one in myoeg for neck angle... i drew the bridge height off the top of the body and extended a line from the bridge to a point that touches the fretboard (i made the fretboard about 1/4" proud of the body). then i extended that straight line to the plane where the nut would be at 25" scale. i measured the angle between that line and the straight line that extends from the top of the body. yes, i also used trig because my pencil lead was a bit thick to get an accurate measurement of the angle (in fact, i don't own a protractor). however, i verified my calculations by measuring the sides of the triangle with the numbers i got from my calculations and therefore get my angle (rt angle trig is very handy). so making the measurements and drawings are simple enough. i just want to make sure i plug in the right data, i.e. bridge height and fretboard/fret height.

i made a full size drawing to get my neck angle for a deep set neck project. ok, so i drew the line and got a decent angle to measure. i measured the bridge height that i am using, however, now i am not sure whether i should measure with the saddles adjusted all the way down or all the way up. also, i think i read (during a search on neck angles) that some say to draw the line so that the touches the top of end of the highest point of the fretboard. i also think i have read that i should draw the line so that it touch the top of the last fret. can someone clarify for me. a side question here... since i will be using a strat type bridge (lr baggs x-bridge) on a carve top, it seems to me that it should be the same as a flat top and no neck angle should be required. is that a correct assumption? sorry for all the questions. this will be my first carve top and set neck project.

ok, well then... lets vote! if you were going to make a double cut lp style axe, would you go ahead and just make it the same (with the offset) or be a little different and make the horns symmetrical? just curious to see what the consensus of preferences would be.

ok, good... at least i know my eyes are alright. maybe i will make them symmetrical. after all, that's the cool thing about building axes from scratch!

while my current project cures from its nitro finish, i want start my next project. i was looking at something like a double cut lp. ok, so i am looking at pictures on the gibson site and it looks as though the horns on the upper bout are not symmetrical. its hard to definitely tell by the pictures i am looking at. there are no double cut lps to look at the local guitar stores here so i just wanted to verify that what i think i am seeing is true. are the double cut lp horn's not symmetrical?