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WezV

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Everything posted by WezV

  1. so what's the weight currently? mine is 8lb without hardware, quite relieved its come out at that! I have been weighing hardware as well. the owner wanted chrome knobs till i pointed out that chrome knobs weight about 30g each and we need 8 of them. we went with ebony ones which are 5g each
  2. thats the point though - they are obvious choices i have done many many times before, and i like to try new things p-ups are 4 wire - tbh i was considering those SD tripleshot rings to give me the usual options and just wanted something different for this extra body control i can always go back to the normal stuff if whatever i try doesnt work like i want
  3. hmm, maybe a killswitch at the moment the 3rd pot is actually an active boost circuit, but i am not sure i like it yet so it may get replaced with a normal tone control and then i could have a toggle for cap selection like this from here: http://guitarnuts2.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=modules&action=display&thread=3883
  4. i dont know if messing it up more is the answer - unless i get a black one to distress. tbh i quite like the mix of hardware colour & condition
  5. nearly there - been strung up for a few days before i decide what to do with the extra control hole also reworked my metal leaf stratele from this: to this
  6. yes, a 5-piece laminated neck with certain grain alignment will be stiffer than a comparable single piece and this may change the tone slightly. but it really is just generalisations so we cant be as specific as you want without knowing the individual piece of wood i think (and it is just opinion based on the wood i have worked with) the bubinga/ebony neck will give you a fast, strong attack. i wouldnt rule out a maple cap if its what you want, but personally i would keep it as a thin one so its tonal impact is reduced. I find bubinga quite forgiving really and i think you are over thinking things, sure it can be bright... but its not harsh Here is a FF baritone i made totally out of bubinga, maple, wenge & ebony, all hard, heavy, 'bright' woods. the thing i think it has is clarity and a strong tone across the frequencies
  7. keep the bubinga neck -i would pair it with a mahogany body. and it will most likely be reminiscent of gibson, or as close as it can be with a fender scale length and bolt-on neck
  8. i would expect it to be heavy. and i would suspect that the extra glueing at the edge may affect the stiffness of the top
  9. same as the front - although i suppose you could claim the natural back is what you would get on a real counter top
  10. have you got a picture of yours then? having sold a few teisco's over the last few years i can say the basic models will fetch £80 on a bad day, £150 on a good. Certain models go for a fair bit more del rays and spectrums being the most sought after. But sometimes it is worth parting them out and selling it as a lot of 99p no reserve auctions - especially if its not in great shape or has a few key parts missing. I got £60 just for a badly refinished body and scratchplate of a less desirable top twenty... compared to £100 for a better condition complete example of the same guitar. Both listed at the same time with honest descriptions!
  11. or even part it out! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/60s-TEISCO-RY-COODER-GOLD-FOIL-PICKUP-JAPAN-7-79-K-OHMS-/180646612250?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item2a0f608d1a#ht_2041wt_1139
  12. tbh i would stick the whole thing on ebay - you will get a decent profit on your £15
  13. the chrome edging makes a big difference - looks a lot cooler cover the back with something if you really want it to work
  14. here is the 8 string version i was thinking of when searching for that pic
  15. that vote was a photo finish! well done!
  16. here are some other takes on the fanned fret trem kahler 8 string: conklin: i think there are other fanned fret instruments with trems but most use non-angled bridge with slight fan I agree that the aldridge version above is gonna be a bit odd - i guess that is why the conklin above only went for 4 of the strings being affected by the trem. if all 8 were on the trem you would have the bass strings flapping high above the fretboard whilst the high strings has barely moved. It may be a bit like that on the 6 string one you have had made, but its still a ncic idea - just might take some getting used to personally i think that kahler are onto the best idea for a fanned fret trem - the saddles dont move at all so a fanned fret kahler will feel pretty much like a normal one!
  17. doubleneck is happening - just inlayed both the necks, which was decided after i had already fretted them! here are the new covers over some emeralds (not fixed or re-potted yet) and the original ibanez
  18. i love it when a plan comes together! Brought some of these just for the covers!: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Neck-Bridge-Classic-humbucker-pickups-8-6k-P7_W0QQitemZ140341085828QQcategoryZ22670QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp5197.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D5%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8079325391113030907#ht_500wt_922 when put on black open coil pickups they look pretty much like the early ibanez ones!! zebra is good - but i think this is better!
  19. thats right - but 25.5" is a guitar scale length and wont work well for bass. most short scale basses are about 30" scale - you dont want it shorter than that and you should find its enough to make quite a difference! you should be able to find something that size at the local guitar shop to see if it will work for her also be careful with body shape/design to make sure she isnt having to reach too far for the first frets. if you look at something like a gibson thunderbird - the shape of the body puts the neck further towards your left hand meaning you have to stretch further than on a P or J-bass with the same scale length
  20. oil & wax finish is nearly done and this is my current favourite for the aesthetics i want may all change one i get my hands on some slotted chrome covers though
  21. those grover sta-tite's are pretty nice - certainly look a bit like they belong on an acoustic, but they are nicely made and will work well either way... i actually think they are nicer than rotomatics... but then thats not really hard
  22. yes, but much more comfortable with one that fans out somewhere between 3rd and 9th for the same reason, your hand naturally sits mid neck somewhere... depends on arm length/height. It doesnt just twist in towards the bridge but twists out towards the nut as well but a perpendicular nut will feel quite natural since its what we are are used to playing, at the same time it misses out on one of the advantages of fanned fret designs which can help with first position chords when layed out in an appropriate manner. but its a much better reason to build it that way than just wanting to use a pre slotted nut
  23. if you cant slot a nut - how do you expect to make a fanned fret guitar :? besides - even pre-slotted nuts need extra slotting and setting up i can understand people using a straight bridge to avoid having to make one. even so i dont think its a good idea - but doing it the opposite way just to use a pre-slotted nut is ridiculous
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