jbkim

I've had great luck with naphtha and cotton swabs.

Oh yeah! I love these little guys! I wish I'd bought even one of those Hondo copy of it back in the 80's. I think a headless version of one of these, i.e., a headless Chiquita with the Lazer's bridge assembly, would be pretty cool.

Sounds like you're describing a Stewart guitar's Clip-Joint neck connector. I don't know if he'll sell it separatly. If you find out either way, please post.

Yes, that would be cool... but in the mean time, check out the Froogle section of google.com. While not dedicated solely to guitar stuff, I think it might be a helpful start for shopping around.

Your English is fine... it's better than my Korean . I agree with rob, we can tell a lot of love went into that guitar.

Ugh... for the fourth time... Sheesh, noone likes math anymore?

Man! Those pickup rings look fantastic! I love the look of the acetal plastic. I use the standard Clayton 1mm acetal picks... I love the way they feel .

Hey, no problem krazyderek. Yeah, I had to eat something before I figured that tangled mess myself... now I have a headache . Time for a nap!

I totally agree that their web site layout sucks big time... and I'm sure that they lose sales as a result of it. But to it's credit, their advanced search page for "shim" turns up the correct floyd parts right away.

Well, I worked out the math as a prelude to figuring out the code. Hope it makes some sense to you : The distance between 1st and 6th strings on my floyd is 2 1/8" (2.125".) Numbers have been rounded to nearest 0.0001" 6 5 4 3 2 1 <-c3-> <------c2------> <-----------c1-----------> let c1 = 2.1250" # distance between 1st and 6th let c2 = (3/5)* c1 = 1.2750" # distance between 2nd and 5th let c3 = (1/5)* c1 = 0.4250" # distance between 3rd and 4th let r0 = 15" # starting radius let r1 = 10" # ending radius function calculate_height_d (r, c) { # takes radius and string distance as args: r and c d = sqrt(4*(r*r) - (c*c))/2 return d } # let d10, d20, d30 = the calculated distance using c1, c2, c3 # with the formula: d = sqrt(4*r*r - c*c)/2 # and r0. let d10 = calculate_height_d (r0, c1) let d20 = calculate_height_d (r0, c2) let d30 = calculate_height_d (r0, c3) d10 = 14.9623" d20 = 14.9864" d30 = 14.9985" # let d11, d21, d31 = the calculated distance using c1, c2, c3 # with the formula: d = sqrt(4*r*r - c*c)/2 # and r1. let d11 = calculate_height_d (r1, c1) let d21 = calculate_height_d (r1, c2) let d31 = calculate_height_d (r1, c3) d11 = 9.9434" d21 = 9.9797" d31 = 9.9977" Now here's where it gets confusing :-). Since in this case, we're going from a radius of 15 to 10, the 1st/6th strings will be untouched, with shims needed for the 2nd/5th and 3rd/4th strings. If we went from a radius of 10 to 15, the 3rd/4th would stay the same and the others would need to be shimmed. let d20_diff = d20 - d10 let d30_diff = d30 - d10 d20_diff = 0.0241" d30_diff = 0.0362" let d21_diff = d21 - d11 let d31_diff = d31 - d11 d21_diff = 0.0363" d31_diff = 0.0543" let shim_for_3rd_4th_strings = d31_diff - d30_diff let shim_for_2nd_5th_strings = d21_diff - d20_diff shim_for_3rd_4th_strings = 0.0181" shim_for_2nd_5th_strings = 0.0122" so basically, you'll need two shims of about 0.0181" for your 3rd and 4th strings and two of about 0.0122" for your 2nd and 5th strings to change it from the 15" radius to 10" radius. Of course, as I said several times before, you could have "trial and error"-ed it, but math is fun, right? If anyone sees any errors above, please post any corrections.

Heh, that's cool! But I wonder how differing metals (steel - floyd vs. aluminum can) will have dielectric (is that the correct term?) effect, i.e., corrosion. Would this be a concern?

Hmm... ok, sorry. I suppose I can put together a web CGI form that calculates the shim sizes, given a starting radius and ending radius, if there is enough interest (post here if anyone is.) Give me a few days to do it... I have a love/hate relationship with programming .

Isn't that what I just said? Um, actually, since you're dealing with two different curves and not a linear measure, it wouldn't be a straight proportion as you suggest. Plus, the distances you'd be dealing with will be on the order of 0.010" which'll be difficult to measure... but like I said in my original post, it might be just "easier" to "trial and error" it. I just posted the math for those who might be interested.

Hmm... I should clarify that the shim values would be calculated from the differences in d values derived from the starting and ending r values. Clear as mud, eh?

For anyone who wants to calculate the sizes of the shims from feeler guages... I checked the Dr. Math forum particularly the section for circle for any helpful formulas. This diagram seems to apply to this situation: with the formula: d = sqrt(4r^2-c^2)/2 being the most salient. Calculate your values for d (the shims) with r being either your starting or ending radius and c being the distances between 3rd/4th, 2nd/5th and 1st/6th strings. It'd probably be easy enough to "trial and error" the correct feeler guage sizes but for those who want some mathematical rigor, the above should be a good starting point.

Another thing to note is that gibson string spacing is narrower than floyds at the bridge... the 1st/6th strings'll feel like their slipping of the edge of the fretboard. I agree, it's just not right .

I'm gonna guess it's Cyanoacrylate, same stuff as Crazy Glue.

Very nice! Will you be transfering the piezo electronics from your strat to it? Go void that warrenty, man!

I just saw this site linked from fark.com with the tagline "...guitar theory explained in way that is best, in English written by who that speaks no English." There has been a thread about theory here. I just took a quick glimpse at the site... looks like it might be helpful to some.

What's your budget? I can vouch for Carvin neck, $120 plus s+h for the bolt-on. I've found great deals on eBay. My most recent being a kramer body and neck for $55 including shipping. I expected it to be semi-crappy but was very pleasently surprised at how nice it was.

Shimming is the cheapest solution it seems. I haven't done the math but I wondered about replacing the two low saddles (1st and 6th string) with an extra pair of medium saddles (2nd and 5th) and what radius it would result in. Using allparts prices, it'd be around $30 plus s+h. If someone has done the calculations, it'd be cool if they could post a shim size table for converting radii... something like: 10" | 14" | 15" | 16" | 17" | 18" | 19" | 20" | 2/5 shim | | | | | | | | 1/6 shim | | | | | | | | 14" | 15" | 16" | 17" | 18" | 19" | 20" | 2/5 shim | | | | | | | 1/6 shim | | | | | | |

not really looking to buy any plans if that's what you're asking, BUT, if you have a set you're willing to share send'em on over, it's something i'd like to keep my mind open too.. [snip] course like i said i wouldn't want anything fancy, just something i could maybe build for under 1000$ [snip] I found this site while surfing around... "Total cost - $952.25" It was linked from the cnczone forum which might be worth checking out if you're interested in CNC... especially the "Musical Instrument Construction" section.

At first glance, I was wondering why you'd use a condom ("ribbed... for your guitar's pleasure") then I realized a rubber is probably a pencil eraser in England .

Actually I did see the "L" at the end of what typed... sadly that just makes the cost of hardware worse . I didn't mean to disparage your proposed project (I apologize if it seemed that way) but you've got the right idea. After accruing all the necessary parts for the swap, it'd only be a little more ($45) to buy a body blank and build a whole new other guitar. As for the $439.00 Jackson, I'm sure it's a great guitar for it's price tag, but one that you build with the Warmoth, etc. parts will be THAT much better and it'd be all your own .

Hmm... I just looked up the Ibanez model you have. Some things to concider, the Warmoth's price with a 24 fret neck will be as much, if not more, than a new GRX20 ($159.99 at musiciansfriend.com.) Factor in the work needed to move the neck pickup, maybe a new pickguard, maybe new tuners, etc. I think it'd be fun and you'd gain some cool experience with the swap but you'll have to decide if the guitar is worth upgrading. If the guitar held some sentimental value, I'd do it in a heartbeat... otherwise, I'd be reluctant.