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Norris

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Everything posted by Norris

  1. Norris
    I'm certain I commented on this yesterday to say what a fantastic job you've done. Have we had overnight site issues? Quite a few posts that I read yesterday have been marked as unread. Hmm. Anyway to reiterate, that carving looks terrific!
  2. Norris
    By 'eck there are some big woodworm around these parts! They've done a nice neat job though There... the not-an-f-hole Luckily I got first use of the new set of forstener bits that the guitar building course just bought, before any of the other students got a chance to abuse them . Can you remember all that time ago when I dyed & lacquered the upper chamber? I almost wish I'd gone ahead & installed an LED to give it a glow. I was toying with the idea at the time, but decided it might be a bit too cheesey. Still the red "rock 'n' roll heart" is prominent enough, and should look good when the top is blue. Once again I'm pretty pleased with that. Those holes were what inspired the tear-drop recesses in the first place. Edit: 14 pages?! I really must up my tempo on the next build!
  3. Norris
    Aw shucks guys I'm itching to get it finished, but desperately trying not to rush it. ...and Mrs Norris was commenting this morning about some of the interior decorating that needs doing in the house (never a good sign imho). Anyway I spent two hours on the neck heel last night - and you'd probably not be able to tell from a before & after shot. Anyway I've brought the "heel break" back by an inch or so, so that there's less of the "platform" sticking out from the socket. Boy it's not easy to blend it in, but we're nearly there apart from a couple of birds eyes that need smoothing out a little more. Another tick on the list
  4. Norris
    You've created a gorgeous bass there. Lovely stuff & so quick too!
  5. Norris
    Very nice work and a gorgeous bit of quilt to boot. Looking at the thickness of the top I assume we are in for another carve-fest
  6. Norris
    Ooh - that's a gorgeous blue! Very nice work
  7. Norris
    I was playing around using several shades to try to pop the grain. However I eventually decided to do a single colour to try to let the chatoyance out a little. Obviously using lots of pigment to get a deep colour will limit that to a certain extent Thanks. The fading seemed to be very specific to the particular ink. Some very similar looking shades had very different light-fastness I don't know about "wins" yet, but I'm very satisfied that I've exceeded my own expectations as to what I can achieve - given enough time!!!
  8. Norris
    Sorry I took some time to reply. I've just had a couple of days off work due to a heavy cold - not nice and no energy at all! My plans are to dye it blue, with the ash back grain-filled in black & dyed blue too. I'm toying with the idea of attempting a subtle burst on the top using careful sanding - I still want it fairly saturated though (although the creased denim look might be nice as well). The headstock veneer will be dyed to match. I was hoping to get this finished for Christmas, but there is still so much fettling to do that I'm starting to have doubts. Still, my emphasis throughout has been to try to do it "right", to match the image in my head - if it takes a little longer then so be it. I'm building up my skills and the next build will be quicker. What I am learning is where to put the effort in to get things right in the first place, so it will take less time to fettle it later. Plus, I'm having fun
  9. Norris
    One small step, but a substantial milestone. I have finally fitted the neck to the body, albeit temporarily Please excuse a few photos And with some not-so-subtle downlighting... I've already marked out where I need to extend the neck carve further towards the heel (second photo). I'll also be refining the heel area on the body The rest of the evening "class" was spent working on the jig for drilling for my ferrules Edit: One of the photos seems to have gone AWOL. Attempting re-post... Edit #2: Hmmm..... Edit #3: Looks like PhotoBucket was playing up when I posted, and PG tried to proxy the image. Hopefully it will turn up eventually. Edit & re-post was unsuccessful Edit #4: It was a shot of the rear neck join btw Edit #5: Two hours later it seems to have turned up at last
  10. Norris
    I love that neck pocket shape - and such an accurate fit too
  11. Norris
    It looks more like it's facing away from you to me Nice wood
  12. Norris
    I did some test samples for my guitar, to see if there was much of a difference between doing the grain filling before or after dyeing. They both looked about the same to me. Therefore when I come to do the guitar I'll grain fill first to reduce the risk of over-sanding through my dye.
  13. Norris
    Thanks - and welcome to the forum
  14. Norris
    Not much time this week. I did route the recess for the neck plate and rounded off the heel Darn - looks like it's focused on the reflection - a nice shot of the rafters in my garage
  15. Norris
    Shinto rasps are excellent tools, but not very nice on the hands. I wear a pair of thick suede gardening gloves if I have much rasping to do
  16. Norris
    A small amount of progress this week. My neck pocket was a little shallow, so I deepened it a bit with my Dremel using a 3.2mm bit. It turned out nice & neat but hardly worth a photo. I've also made a template to recess my neck plate - another job for the Dremel. I have some chrome knobs kicking about, but thought I'd have a go at making some from the wood offcuts, inspired by numerous build threads on here. However, I don't have a lathe. What I do have in the way of turny-roundy things is a drill press. So I cut a chunk of the ash and roughly squared it up. I then cut the head off a coach bolt & ground off the sharp tip. I drilled a hole in the end of the wood, just small enough for the thread to grip without putting too much lateral stress on the wood and screwed the coach bolt in. Then it went into the chuck and I set about it with my shinto rasp. After a few minutes of very GENTLE rasping (I don't want to wreck my drill!) it was basically round. At that point I clamped a set square onto the table and used that and the rear pillar as a guide for my sanding blocks. ... a decent start. I have a lot more work to do on these and I probably won't post many more pictures of them until the "big reveal" - I can actually start thinking about that now!
  17. Norris
    That's the advantage of being a novice at this - I've not had time to learn what I should and shouldn't be doing, so sometimes have to think my way around what is common & established practice for more experienced builders
  18. Norris
    Thanks! It looked pretty good when I smoothed out the lower ridge, leaving just the upper ridge where it meets the flat top. Unfortunately I didn't take any photos at that stage, but that was a pretty cool look too
  19. Norris
    Gorgeous V - the binding looks spot on!
  20. Norris
    So I had some annual leave building up so took a couple of days off last week. Three days of making sawdust - heaven! I've been working on the round-over of the edge of the body (drop top?). I'd previously carved a 60° facet around the edge, fitted the binding and scraped it to the angle. Next I did another facet at about 80°... I may have invented a tool here, a contour marker... ... which I used to mark lines at 6mm and 2mm - a 1:3 ratio Then carefully used the shinto rasp, cabinet scrapers and sanding block Skip forward about 2 days of sanding... ... and it's getting there. The light through the garage window is ideal for spotting ridges & scratches I've not taken a photo yet since I've got it down to about 600 grit. There are still a few scratches to go, but I'll wait until I've done the rear access panel before going too mad. Anyway, I'm rather pleased. I didn't think I was capable of producing work quite to this standard (though I do say so myself! ), so I've had to raise my personal bar a bit. In light of that, I did fix that slightly dodgy binding on the heel of the neck (if you can remember that long ago) with a spot of acetone (no pictures yet, it's still mummified)
  21. Norris
    It's nothing that a good jig can't sort out along with a bit of needle file work If it all goes wrong I'll say it was intentionally "vintage spec" - it does have Fender CS Nocaster pickups
  22. Norris
    I don't know if I have enough experience to say. @Prostheta swears by acetone. I used the Weld-On on the recommendation of my instructor. The Weld-On does give you a few minutes to faff around and doesn't evaporate away like acetone. However on the couple of bits that have needed tidying up I used acetone to do the fix (which handily dissolves the Weld-On). If it's your first attempt you might find it easier to use Weld-On due to the working time. Beware though, it's very runny - the same consistency as the old polystyrene cement you used to use on your Airfix kits (although obviously not as fluid as acetone!) One thing that will help, whichever fixing method you use, is to try to pre-form the binding into shape before trying to stick it on. It's a much easier job when you're not fighting against the tension. Stop occasionally on a straight or gently curved section to bend the next part A hairdryer on its hottest setting is useful for bending plastic binding.
  23. Norris
    Ha ha! I'm not lowering my standards just because Leo did
  24. Norris
    So I've been told! However I have a lot to live up to posting my build on PG and will do my utmost to get them nicely aligned
  25. Norris
    In my humble opinion... Difficult to say, as I used a plane to do my compound radius (still on my first build!). However I would try to keep your weight over the main part of the board to avoid rounding over - a longer beam might help, so that your hand doesn't need to go within a couple of inches of the ends of the board i.e. let the beam do the levelling and keep enough of it in contact with the board to avoid any tilting at the ends. A slight rounding off on the topmost frets is actually desirable Yes, although I've seen a few people do a rough radius before binding & finishing it off when it's glued to the neck blank After. It's easier to glue & clamp your board onto a square neck blank. Plus, if you trim too much off the width then your nicely bound board won't fit any more. Acetone is good for adhesion. Personally I used Weld-On as shown in this post (my first ever attempt at binding - the body went much better)
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