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  1. currently working on a neck-through from scratch myself - in my estimation its one hell of a lot less fiddling round than with a set or screw down neck. No neck pocket to cut. I have a ways to go before I'm at your stage yet by the way I do like your offset body design. very stylish and she'll be a looker for sure.
  2. yep i see the point for a thin neck. This one's a fatty with over an inch thick at 12..Having cut the slot and access at the headstock I'm committed with this current build. The weld on the rod adjuster head failed on initial adjusting test and had to pull it. Worked fine in the test before I installed it. Luckily it happened before neck was glued into the body. I am definitely thinking on the tape method from here on. It was a real pain to get out.
  3. IMHO No.. I recently rebuilt an old Rick 4001 with twin rods and and never had a single thought about using twin rods in the new neck. Consider a decent two way rod with CF stiffening bars either side. It will be stronger and more functional. YKMV
  4. nup - use CA glue nut to the veneer and then trim it back to the nut using an exacto scalpel when you fit the nut to the slot do not put any glue underneath.it only goes on the back of the nut where it touches the fingerboard end grain.. If its a fender style slot, a little glue on front and back bottom edge only. You want that nut to pop out easily if you need it to. Last thing you want is a nut glued securely to the bottom of the slot. Best glue is wood glue either titebond or white PVA. you're just packing the nut in nice and tight with that glue. Think of the next guy who has to take out the nut. He'll hate you if its glued onto the floor of the slot. If it pops out easy he'll think hmm a pro put this together.
  5. I've done it both ways using a shim as in Luthier tips de jour [about 4:41 min in] and using the old tape over the slot and hope no glue gets on the rod method. I have had the latter go wrong a time or two and recently had the joy of pulling a rod out installed as per the vid way. Defintely not fun and a trickier to get the rod out without mongrelising the channel. interested to know your preference and the reasons behind it thanks in advance
  6. pretty labour intensive way of finishing a neck- use a lot of coats rubbed in multiple times - the surface of the wood should be sanded till it shines before oil goes on - danish oils is good and a lot quicker as it has driers in it. you can make it up yourself easily and there is recipes all over the web. also look at wiping varnish as a an even easier solution
  7. the kid is still talking to me and has resigned himself to pin striping. Now its time for him to get off the pottie or pee - if he drops his 1/3rd deposit i'll post back
  8. translates to white mahogany - not strictly korina which is a different species which grows in africa. - looks quite similar - i'd love to get my hands on some of those boards i like your leveling jigs btw bet this will be a great guitar
  9. hm this is looking good. btw if you don't mind my asking where did you source the korina?
  10. Please dont meddle with this guitar.. Sell it to some one who will care for it and buy yourself something that fits your hand a little better. You will have a good deal of cash to play with
  11. yep these are the blokes i refer to the opposition
  12. wondering if any one can recommend a source of well seasoned White Limba. I have not been able to find a source over here in Australia. The idea is to use it to build a neck through with Blackwood wings. I have approached a couple of timber yards specialising in top grade furniture timbers in Nth America and they are not interested in shipping a small quantity out here. Any Ideas? thanks in advance
  13. Here,s how i do it on a jig I cut from MDF using a table router. See below - The jig is screwed to the neck blank. I dont like perspex as it is fragile and damn expensive round here. Obviously The router rides on top with a 1/4" bit through it to cut the slot, For what it's worth that stewmac truss rod is not applicable to a front adjust neck as too much wood is lost at the adjustment point. This is a very vulnerable spot and where most head stock breaks happen. As a heel adjuster its fine but ensure you cut tele style channel in the back of the neck pocket for access with an allen key. To cut that larger hole for the adjuster head a doweling jig is the way to go. I bought a couple of them when they came out as they looked like a great idea for heel adjusters but felt the weld at the end opposite the adjuster looked a bit dodgy and I would have had to strip off the plastic to inspect it. I could have re wrapped them in shrink wrap I suppose but knocked them out for not looking quite right in a critical area. I have not bought them again.
  14. lets put this to rest with the epilogue to this story I pitched the idea of using orange pin striping buried under the lacquer to the client which to me was a perfectly reasonable solution. I thought about various ways to make the biding. I finally decided I wasn't prepared to walk though fire, water and then jump through hoops to make orange binding at any price. He didn't like the idea of the pin striping so he trashed the project on that basis.. I must admit to being not too disappointed as it would have been a very ugly beast if it had have been brought into the world. I do get some blokes through here from time to time with some pretty [to me at least] mad ideas.
  15. It is interesting. We have gotten so used to getting exactly what we want in the recent past that when we find something we can't get it is a bit of a surprise. I contacted one of the China blokes with a big ebay store and miles of binding in all colours of the rainbow [in one strip] well not really but truckloads of the stuff. His reply was "Very sorry this color not can get. Would send some red very quality binding.to you if make a bid."
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