Mike.Mara

So... I've been talking to Prostheta and we've both noticed a gap in the CNC world where guys who build guitars are kind of left out. Most CNC's are either too big, too short or too wide. (In my opinion). Would there be any interest from the guys here in designing a CNC for instrument related purposes? I'm under the assumption that people will want it as cheap but as accurate as possible, and I figured a lot of minds are better than one. I'm thinking as many off-the-shelf parts as possible and everything else being able to be made easily by hand... Or at least cheap enough to get a routing template laser cut. If there is any interest, anyone care to throw out some ideas regarding linear rails? Work area, drive system, construction materials? I'm hoping that if there is interest then we can make it to upgrade it self from whatever material to aluminium so we can end up with machines that are capable beyond their price range. Mike.

Have you tried a 2 rail sweep or (depending on your CAD software) Network Surface? I had trouble with this: The solution was to build up curves and use both Sweep2Rail and NetworkSurface along with splitting surfaces ect. You can see the mess I had to go through! I've never been a fan of the model a cutaway without the cutaway, then cut it out thing... It's always steered me wrong.

It's no problem! Spray testing may not be for a while as I'm sure you know, the sun has gone and won't be showing up again any time soon! With the way the tests went, as long as you stick to 10% acetone, it'll spray a dream through a HVLP or touch up system. I did some further tests with more acetone in the mix, varying from 20%-50% and as expected, the resin didn't cure beyond a flexible jelly (jello for you guys in the US) like substance. Maybe I didn't let it evaporate long enough, but even after an hour in the bright summer sun it never cured. At this point I'm hesitant to say if a Preval will work or not as the mix was still just a tad thick but until I get one and test it out I'm still not 100% sure. A suitable spraying area is still what's holding me back a bit on further testing since out of the sun it will never cure unless you add MEKP and I'm still a bit concerned about mixing too many flammable liquids in one batch. Plus I still need to do some more research on how acetone and MEKP will interact. I'm thinking a collapsible booth that I can fold out and lay in the sun to cure any overspray. And just in case anyone is interested, I have come across a possible UV source in the form of a Exo Terra Repti Glo 10.0 Desert Terrarium Lamp. Seems to have the right wavelengths covered and isn't expensive either. I may get one in so I can do some winter testing on the resin.

You would have thought that after 3 years I would be done with the upgrades though . I did indeed have to buy new bits too... And a new collet, and a collet extension for my smaller bits so they can reach thinner work pieces. Time will tell if the extra length added will be a mistake for runout, but I did upgrade the bearings in my router a while ago as the stock ones lasted all of a few months with very little use. But that's what you get by buying a cheap Chinese knock-off Makita router . The runout did appear to improve a decent amount though .

Indeed it is, when I first assembled this "kit" CNC, you could just look at it and it would wobble around. Slowly but surely it's getting better with every upgrade I'm forced to make.

Right... I got off my ass yesterday and jointed and glued up a body blank. Really would love a bench jointer but the No. 7 Stanley does the job nicely, have an almost invisible joint this time round. Been working on the CNC too, trying to get it a bit more stable and rigid... Accuracy has yet to be tested since I'm considering making this one on it since there's some parts like the direct mount EMG I'll have trouble with by hand. If nothing else, the CNC makes a decent thicknesser. Back of the body isn't so pretty but I imagine the transparent black finish will take care of the look a little. Front is much nicer... Came of the CNC at a hair under 42MM. Will hopefully get some more done tomorrow provided I can find one of my longer bits... If not I'll have to order one in, I traded in Z axis movement for rigidity, now I need longer bits to compensate.

It's funny you should mention snipe . Fortunately the snipe is at the headstock end and doesn't come into play again until after the neck will end. But that tip is going to come into great use when I don't have over-sized stock! Thank you very much! The jointer is in real need of some up keep, the blades need replacing but unfortunately the college control the money and they consider it secondary. The hand tools there are in terrible condition and should really all just be thrown out, so I take my own. The rest of the machines in that room are actually set up pretty well.

The body is ever so slightly offset, if I remember correctly the bottom of the body was moved 10mm back and the top 10mm forward compared to a "normal" Tele. If you compare it to a normal Tele, you can see a subtle difference.

That mando is looking fantastic! I truly admire your carving skills, your headstocks in particular are always awesome.

I can see why you'd rather make one than buy one... Those signature models are pricey! I've been interested in building a plywood guitar myself (body anyways). There's no reason not to, quite a few companies have used plywood in the past! Best of luck on your build! Look forward to seeing how this one turns out!

I wasn't sure I could make it work at first... The first few designs were terrible looking, like Frankenstein's monster if he had an ugly twin. Glad it worked out in the end though and that it's being well received by others.

New updated plans... Partially because the first set for some reason I'd made 25" scale . I have so many drawings I've done that I tend to take parts from some to design new ones... Bit me in the ass this time! I couldn't decide on inlays so I let my other half decide for me... So paw prints walking up the fretboard it is! Need to wait for my new spindle mount to arrive before I can make templates for this one on the CNC, the set for my first, although they worked, had their issues because the spindle is slightly out of true. I could just chuck all the wood on the CNC but where's the fun in that? Need to figure out how I'm going to route that direct mount EMG though... Maybe cheat and do the pickup routes on the machine and the rest by hand. Will decide after more coffee and getting some bikes fixed.

I know SR disagrees with me here, but sanding is the one thing about working with wood I can't stand... Unless I'm using the sandpaper as a shaping tool. Have you thought about shaping a little cone on a drill and wrapping some self adhesive sandpaper on it? All progress is worth showing

Little late for this but: Conical Sanding Drums Wish you luck with fixing that finish... Looks beautiful!

Got the neck stock planed down today, looks beautiful! Never mind the stuff behind it, this room is currently for storage . Ohh to be left alone in this room... Getting a qualification has extra perks! Wish I had thought of this room more before when doing my first build... Ohh well, I'll be utilising it well this time!

Indeed... But unfortunately it's well out of my price range. Maybe when I've finished my qualifications and I can afford a fair few hundred to throw at a piece of wood .

That it's not... Unless you have a lot of money at your disposal of course .

Indeed, the first time I saw it, my immediate thought was... Why is this not on a guitar? Although the tables and stuff are still awesome!

And as promised, here are the woods: The curly maple is bookmatched from the same billet as my first build. Still not sure if I want to use it on this one or save it for another original design. I have enough of that maple/black walnut neck stock, depending on how I use it and imperfections to work around, for about another 3-4 guitars. I also have a second poplar blank to use so apart from a fretboard, I'm set for number 3 too... Unless I can find some reasonably priced wenge and bubinga for a neck... Or a pure rosewood neck... So many woods, so little money! If I could afford it, I'd make an ancient Kauri whitebait carved top, mahogany back, rosewood neck and Macassar ebony fretboard. Damn that would be pretty.

Axminster for example sell water thin Titebond CA... Love the stuff, you get a lot for your money too.

I've decided on a new build... This time not an original design but one that over the years I've started to admire. The body will be slightly offset as to not be a direct copy and take a bit of influence from my first build through to my second. Here's the specs: 5 Piece maple and black walnut neck. 25.5" Scale. Indian rosewood fretboard. (Provided I can get the slight twist and bow out... If not, possibly maple again.) Poplar body. (Maybe with a 5 piece maple/black walnut "strip" down the middle, or possibly a curly maple top I have stored, thoughts?) Pearl pickguard. Humbucker in the bridge, Possibly an EMG 81. Never been a fan of active pickups but willing to give them a go again. Single coil in the neck, Probably some kind of EMG if I go active. Graphite nut. Transparent black finish if no figured top or purple if figured. Either oiled or an acrylic urethane high gloss if I feel brave enough. Locking tuners. Standard 6 string fixed bridge. 10.8MM bridge spacing. 42MM nut. 12" radius. Here's the plans so far: I'll get a picture of the woods later, not that there's anything particularly special about them, they're all pretty common looking specimens of the woods they are... But wood is wood and wood is good! Mike.

Thanks for the advice! That should help out a lot. Very much appreciated!