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seb last won the day on October 22 2017

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  1. I also had the expectation that such a grit is much to coarse and that it leaves ugly scratches ... however it seems i was wrong - it looks great so far! I'm curios about the next coats!
  2. Thanks everybody! :-) Fine tuning of the nut compensation and the electronics are still pending... as usual the last 0.5% to complete the job entirely are waiting weeks and weeks. Anyone familiar with that problem?
  3. Thanks! Congratulations to your excellent guitar builds, Argytar and Massimo! Thanks to all voters, regardless which one you've voted for. Great community by the way. Guess I won't leave that place that early. Sorry mister, no chance! Thanks for your words. Makes me really happy!
  4. Thanks. MM is great stuff. Did you use it wet or dry?
  5. Thanks! This was for sure a point I did not think about enough as I used the ROS... but next time, thanks very much! Why ever the sanding block method did not work very well for me this time. Had some issues with big ugly scratches although I've used quality wet sandpaper, soaked it in water (and a drip of detergent) several hours, and took care about not to fold the sandpaper on the sanding block edges. As I've once lacquered a guitar that was no issue... As you say: waterslide decal under 2K
  6. Good point, I could also observe this, especially at the electronics cavity. I don't like that round over where I want to get sharp edges. Any tricks to mitigate this effect? Guess it should already be helpful to give these regions special attention , i.e. touching them only as little as possible (which probably means excluding the random orbital sander...) Assembly and setup...woohoo! By the way, I took the chance to exhibit more photos in the current GOTM. I'm grateful for any feedback or suggestions! However, there are still a few things to do: fine tuning the intonatio
  7. Hi, I´m Sebastian, 31 years old, living in germany near cologne. I have started building electric basses 2 years ago. This one shown here is my first electric guitar. As most of us, I'm already completely obsessed with the topic. Currently I'm building in a small 4qm cellar room at home. My past and actual build projects are shown on my facebook page. Do not hesitate to have a look and to tell me what you think: https://www.facebook.com/KaemmerGuitars/ 'Model 222' is a special guitar dedicated to a special person. On February 22nd my first son was born and my grandfather died. With t
  8. Polishing with "Rotweiss 1100" paste applied with a polishing pad attached to the random orbital sander for the larger surfaces again. The remaining parts were polished by hand with a microfiber cloth, which worked out much easier and faster I had expected:
  9. Yes, that was also my presumption. I guess it predominantely came from the waterbased stain. The wood above the channels just got too thin, such that each drip of water or which solvent ever lead to a swelling of the wood. However, there were a few days between spraying and sanding the primer coat (this documentary is lagging...). And by now it seems that I've won this battle. A long story short... in total 3 further coats of 2K lacquer have been applied... and, lacquering means in truth: the fun part of spraying takes about seconds and the most time you are cleaning your spray gun or you
  10. Yes, mistakes happen ... and they even have advantages as long we learn from doing them. Heard from several professional builders that mistakes happen even after years. But they know exactely how to fix them or to find elegant work arounds. Here you can see my open air spray booth... extraction, heating, and lighting provided by 100% renewable energies. I'm using 2K polyurethane for this guitar.... started with a primer filler: Intermediate sanding after the base coat.... wah, what the heck? As I've started sanding the stripes came up again ... ... how
  11. Thank you guys. I'm happy that you like it. It means a lot to me! No sorry, but there will follow a few pics of the finished guitar. The pg design started with a rough hand drawing, then I've refined it in detail on my computer with inkscape. I've printed out this drawing and glued it to the aluminium sheet. Then roughly cut out the pickguard with a fretsaw, filed and sanded it to the final shape. The recess for the neck pickup was done by drilling two holes of 14mm diameter with a step drill. Then again sawing, filing and sanding to bring the recess into final shape. Then the sanding
  12. Then I've designed and made a pickguard and trussrod cover out of a aluminium sheet (1.5mm). Brought it into shape with a fretsaw, files and sandpaper. Lastly I've created longitudinal sanding marks on it: Time to bring together all the parts and to verify if everything fits together as required (it did ): Ready to go!
  13. Turn, turn, turn... it was time to do some pickup winding. For that job I use an old sewing machine housed in plywood box. The rotations are counted with a bicycle speedometer (setup such that 1 turn equals 1 meter). Potted the single coil in front simply with CA glue. Potting of the humbucker coils outstanding on this photo: Potted, mounted and secured with tape: ... and chrome covered: T-Style Neck single coil: - AWG42 - AlNiCo5 - 9000 windings ~ 6.3kOhm Bridge humbucker: - AWG42 -AlNiCo5 - 5700/4300 windings ~ 4.5/3.4kOhm - the stro
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