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mistermikev

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Posts posted by mistermikev

  1. A) yes this can certainly be done and is quite simple. 

    B ) my advice would be - just think of it like any other strat.  if you aren't going to wire in any switching on the pickup... you could use any strat diagram you are comfy with.  you just need to wire the humbucker in series (for seymour I believe this will be black is live wire, red and white get wired together and taped off, green and bare to ground). 

    Now... your humbucker is just like any other single coil... black is your live - put it where a std strat wiring bridge live is(red in diagram below), and green/bare is your ground - put it where the std single coil ground is(black in diagram below). 

    note, that as a humbucker, this will not cancel hum in pos 2 like a normal strat.  you could do that by wiring in an auto split on the second half of the 5 way switch but to keep things simple for now lets just assume you don't want that. 

     

     

    reference wire colors:

    https://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/the-tone-garage/humbucker-wire-color-translation

    std strat wires:

    https://diagramart.com/products/electric-guitar-wiring-standard-strat-fender-switch-electric-circuit

  2. 4 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

    That last photo really brings it out.  It looks lovely :)

    thank you sir!  def some subtleties to the top/finish - hard to get pics of.

    2 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

    Looks great, I would like to see a closeup of that binding that gave you so much stick 

    Thank you AD... will get some sunlight photos this weekend and will try to capture it better.

  3. here's the current state of things: working on the wiring... have some touch ups to do on the fret slot edges... and nut isn't glued down.  def need to work up some better pictures... the rosewood on the pickup covers is hard to capture.

    It's interesting how a little difference in neck profile and finish (no binding) can make for a noticeable difference in feel.  This is sort of a rounded C profile... and it feels fenderish... but with a 12" radius it plays sort of fast... my mind can't quite reconcile the two!

    Anywho, been a long journey but I can see the finish line:

    image.thumb.jpeg.14906156e6389779fe022e216ecb4588.jpegDSCN3148e.thumb.jpg.ddbcf8f9cef293a868fa983ba652dd79.jpgDSCN3114.thumb.JPG.0745ce246bed3bf2f826ce5a5f436c78.JPG

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  4. 13 hours ago, curtisa said:

    The 'Epiphone' logo is more likely to be a decal. It should sand off once you get through the clear coat layers. Epiphone are unlikely to have invested time and labour on an inlay job for the logo on the headstock.

    I think I stand corrected.  I was thinking of my es295... i think it has inlay anyway... but relooking at this special... likely just paint/decal.  good call curtisa.

  5. def that fender logo is not genuine... looks like the typical diy waterslide.  headstock def doesn't seem to have come from the std fender neck as mentioned.  my guess is someone rebranded something else - just fair warning: fender has been known to give forum admins a hard time about displaying pics of guitars that are branded with their name that are not obviously made by them. 

    afa switches... you aren't likely to find a diagram for this exact variation, and even if you did find one for 6 switches you couldn't be sure these 6 are doing the sm.  you could take it apart and analyze them but not sure it'd be worth it.  personally, I would find it hard to remember how to get back to a sound I liked but it def would have flexibility and to each his/her own.  you want to take it apart and post lots of pics - assuming it's not a rats nest - probably could give you an idea of what's going on.  I'm guessing 3 of those switches are on/off for individual pickups... the other 3 could be phase, perallel/series, split... any number of things.  If the wiring is problematic... probably better off starting from "what would I like it to do" than to try and reverse engineer (I shudder using that term here... but it's somewhat appropriate) .  If it were mine I'd buy all new electronics and rewire it.  you can spray pot cleaner on pots but there is some grease from the factory that will be cleaned out when you do that... that grease collects dust and prevents scratchy pots... removing it will usually result in a scratchy pot a few weeks down the line.

  6. 16 minutes ago, Frankdemariany said:

    Gotcha. And do you think there is a white or grey base under it?

    i honestly do not know.  not sure why it would matter.  either way I'd put down some primer of a different color, do some sanding to see where hi and low spots are... get it smooth... primer a final time and paint.

  7. not sure I'd try sanding thru the stickers if that's what you mean.  they'll gum up and ruin lots of sandpaper.  since you are going to refinish anyway... I'd use some goo gone and peal/clean it first.  No obvious chips so... should be pretty good candidate to leave the finish and just paint over. 

  8. tru dat.  all part of that measure twice, cut once school of thought. 

    this template is especially complex because I'm trying to set it up to where I can make one template and be able to do a thinline, and a deluxe,,, so 4 knob + toggle vs 2 knob + 3way... tremolo bridge vs tom style.  lot going on!  Every time I step away for a sec and come back I think of some new detail I need to re-work... so until I run out of new thoughts... keep iterating!

  9. stu I'm reading your post while I was working on my drawing at the 'template level'... I was thinking I might take a look at the f hole with this style but smaller - like you suggested - just to see how it looks... but my photoshop template is setup such that it isn't easy to switch back and forth between this view and my template view... so I'll have to revisit that. 

    I'm not sure a smooth straight line headstock is what I'm after... but you've made me start thinking about another thing I might try to lock it all together - so thanks for that!

    I very much appreciate your feedback.

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