mistermikev

Just now, MiKro said:

Looking good Mike.

mk

thank you sir.  I appreciate it!

400 grit on tru oil?  that would be a direct route to burn thru for me!  looks amazing.  nice work!

2 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

Either way there's problems to solve.

always.  The folks over at mylespaul convinced me not to because there was a consensus that it wasn't needed... but also the point was made that the clamps might fight each other and the most important pressure needed to be downward...

1 hour ago, willliam_q said:

I’ve never done a glue on neck before but now that I’ve seen this I know what needs to be considered.  I had never thought of that.  I just thought position the neck and clamp at the top

I am rarely the person who you should follow!  haha!

other good ideas were to use a rubber tube to go up over the headstock and all.  it's all good and I imagine it wouldn't hurt to use some sort of pressure that way but I found it easy enough to get my neck down in the pocket.  I scored the sides to create glue channels and had left the inside pocket edges short for glue escape route... that actually made the neck go in pretty easy despite tight fit. 

2 hours ago, ACRosengrant said:

It's in bad lighting, it's kinda rough on the outside, and I've had it for at least 8 years.  But it was definitely that purple color when I got it in the light of day.

right on.  was just reading that it tends to turn right at the 10 year mark.  it looks real dark in the pic but you know... hard to tell from pics.  look fwd to seeing the purple.

1 hour ago, Bizman62 said:

Straight lines by hand = take a steel ruler and an X-acto knife instead of a pencil. Use files to reach the knife drawn line after sawing a hair outside of it. That's basically how you do it. And of course you'll end up filing one stroke too much...

Oh, I think I could do it to twenty seven strokes too much. 

actually, thinking it would be a lot easier to sand a pickup ring flat... then glue veneer to the top of it.  that's probably in my future somewhere. 

I could see using a router on 3/4 stock and getting the shape right... then hot glue some popsicle sticks to the top, take a flex saw and cut the back off.  I bet that is something where I'd want to do 10 of them and probably 5 would make it thru the process.  something to think about anyway. 

edit: sorry for detail.  I'm done.

so asked over at mylespaul as well but... this is the best I can figure to get a clamp pulling my neck into the body.  see the block there that is clamped to the neck... then the long clamp across.  obviously clamping before you finish that area might be a nice trick but I figured it's hard to finish once it's on.  thoughts?

cka

using the facets method loosely as I always do... just using 3 measurements to do 3 facets... and I come out with the profile matching w/o even trying...

yeah, even 1/4 x 1.5" x 3' ebony is going to be somewhere around $60 a strip and lam is probably still $30+ I would guess.  Just wouldn't use it unless a build really wouldn't look right w/o it esp since as a veneer strip - you wouldn't be able to distinguish it from dyed walnut. 

surely not building entire necks out of it like @komodo (I hear he's related to the rockafellers)!  jk K... envious.

congrats!

ah, right, that's purple heart that turned to brown heart then?

right... small = more difficult.  I can think of sev ways I'd cut it... including yours... but I suspect the difficult part is getting straight lines with a scroll saw, or not busing it with a router.

walnut mahog and maple a winning comb.

wow, I would love to try that but it seems like a lot of work.  respect.

1 hour ago, Norris said:

I don't know if you have access to African khaya in the states. It looks and works like mahogany. The body of my build is solid but very light. There are lots of varieties of khaya - the one I'm using for  the body is quite pinkish in colour, but is looking like mahogany after a few coats of Tru Oil. The neck is a darker, denser variety. I'll do a weigh in on my thread before I hand it over to its owner. It's certainly very light weight for anything resembling a Gibbo

thanks Norris.  I have a what's left of a 8/4 x 13" x 12' stick of it in my garage along with some 12/4.  the delta lectric, and sweet spot blonde builds were all cut from that stick.  I suspect that a 1.75" solid body of that is gonna make a guitar fall in the 7.5-8.5lb range.  it has bee my understanding that khaya mahog can be light OR heavy - this one being on the lighter side of heavy and very orange.  I've been waiting for a new shipment of mahog at my local spot to see if I can pick thru and find a lighter 13" board but it's hard to judge weight on something that big.

I could go buy some stuff from a few spots that I know is light, but I'm in no hurry and I prefer the prices at my local spot.

wow, those look really great.  are they cnc or hand?

right on welcome.  I waited far too long to start building because I had ideas of it when I was 16 and assembled lots of parts guitars but never did a scratch build until 30 yrs later. 

so joining boards sounds like it's going to play a big part in your build.  what tools?  you a hand planer type or router type or jointer type? 

big fan of chambered as I'm a big fan of light guitars - everything I've built so far has been chambered as I have yet to find wood that is light enough to go fully solid. 

look fwd to seeing your build pics.

1 hour ago, willliam_q said:

Golden ratio?  Please enlighten me.

it's a math formula.  it occurs in nature all over the place... is used for fractals... and a lot of digital media courses will tell you that it is a recipe for things 'looking good'.  basically a+b/a = a/b.  at least that's my understanding of it.

not to be confused with the godin ratio... which is the number of guitars you have that are not made by godin vs the number of guitar you have that are made  by godin.

while I think diamonds could be a pretty interesting effect... I'm primarily interested in simple designs.  did spark something tho... going to go look at some pool queues (or cues for those not into the levity thing)

.

while that does appear to be the case... if we simply combined the two 1/8" pieces into 2 1/4" piece each... the ratio is still there while the magic is gone, at least for me.  I 'spose if we add in the requirement of asymmetry... then yes. so it def proves a good guideline but not a guarantee for me

iow pretty sure if you start dividing pieces up on this... it's going to get too busy real fast while maintaining that ratio

trying to put it in a box... for some reason I'm really attracted when there are exactly three sizes and one of those sizes is really small... and there aren't too many pieces.  

also, thank you for the response biz.

so I have been looking around at differing approaches to neck laminations... started building a photoshop doc just to look at the differing possibilities.  I am aware that some folks do tapered, some don't.  all good.  this guy says it is better if you align your laminations closer with the strings:

http://wynguitars.com/guitars-in-progress-film-at-11/

I am also aware that there are many differing combos of different sized wood strips... and have found a few I really like.  wanted to catalog some here and ask for input on possible cool variations.

this is a cool and interesting resource from alembic - suggestion "different sounds from different combos" but more importantly... cover a lot of ground as far as different possible looks:

http://www.alembic.com/info/wood_neck.html

like this one quite a bit - very simple but nice.  it's easy to go over the top IMO with too many wood types and sizes:

this one is simple and lovely but more because of the wood than the actual pattern:

but so far this is my absolute favorite... just love it.  I don't even know why.  again, focused on the pattern as opposed to the wood:

this one is mind blowing but just not interested in the extra work for a scarf:

so... what pattern do you like?  Can you add to the collection here - any pics of nice patterns?

must not be that deep then - I'm assuming you mean by hand and NOT with a power sander or anything.  If so, I'd say 'go for it' probably not much risk if you are sanding thru easily altho with a neck there is always some risk that removing the finish would cause the wood to draw/release moisture and change.

right on.  that's a good option.  I was wondering how you'd do an inlay over the curve... that's why I was thinking perhaps a wood replacement.  sounds like you got yer plan.  look fwd to seeing it.

I would just take an angle grinder to it (totally kidding!).  man... if it's stain... I would not think it would be a good idea to try to get it out.  Even tho you'd probably only have to go down 1/32" of wood... that could prove a disaster.  just sayin.

it were mine... given such a beauty top... I'd probably try to replace the wood  in that area and cover it with an inlay of some sort.  Esp if you did something there that matched the headstock and tied it all together... but what do I know.

nicely done.  yes, frets stand out... nice and shiny.  good job.