Jump to content

mistermikev

GOTM Winner
  • Posts

    4,759
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    133

Posts posted by mistermikev

  1. 39 minutes ago, pshupe said:

    I have heard that about the tensions.  Also if you are using a one-way rod, like a vintage instrument may have, you can use a slightly forward bowed caul and clamp.  The neck is glued into a slight forward bow so that the truss rod will always have tension.  If for whatever reason the neck develops a slight back bow that does not come out with the string tension.  The one way rod will not work.  Another reason to glue on after carved.

    Cheers Peter.

    PS - I always use a double action rod and clamp with my aluminum radius beam on non-vintage builds.

    the caul is an interesting idea.  I have heard of doing that - adding a little fwd bow... but have only build using dual action rods.  I plan on doing a single action in the near future just for the experience... so I appreciate the thoughts.  I was thinking the bowed channel would be more manageable... do you use the straight channel as it's more gibson-accurate?

    also... if not too much trouble... any chance for a pic of your caul?  just curious how small is small.

  2. 32 minutes ago, pshupe said:

    The reason is pretty simple.  I use my CNC machine to carve the neck and transition to the head stock and depending on the neck the sholders and tenon are cut as well.  I need a flat surface to mount on my CNC machine, so I always carve my neck first then put the board on after.

    Here is an example of an LP style neck with tenon.  I carve everything here at one time.

    Capture.JPG.45411ec7810d1fde5e0630f5f02eef24.JPG

    Cheers Peter.

    right on, sounds like it's more of a work flow thing then.  I have been contemplating 'carve first' as in theory it "MIGHT" have a benefit of not putting in some tension by removing wood after adding the fretboard... but it's also nice to be able to keep flat stock for a glueing/clamping and also for doing binding channel to a consistent depth. 

    I'll have to try it just to learn a few things.  thank your for that answer. 

  3. I couldn't help but notice that you carve the neck before putting the fretboard on.  I know of some popular builders who have said this is the only way to get a stable neck... and couldn't help but wonder if that is why you do this?  or is it just how you like your work to flow?  I don't want to detail your thread, so apologies... just couldn't help but wonder.

  4. 7 minutes ago, Big_Bur said:

    I actually wonder about this. Because the strings are tuned so low, I’m not sure the would actually be under that much tension. I’m wondering the same thing about mine.
     

    If I where trying to tune that .270 to an E on a standard bass then yeah, the tension might be insane. But because I’m tuning so low (maybe G#0) I might not even need that heavy duty of a tuner

    undoubtedly the note you tune too would be clutch.  with a string that big... I suspect there is going to be a fair amount of tension required to be in the audible human range but yeah... s/b doable.

  5. 46 minutes ago, Big_Bur said:

    The octobass is part of my inspiration for building this actually. That thing’s awesome lol

    as far as the tuner goes, check my response to Bizman. The ebony tuners are just to expensive and I don’t even fully understand them. It’s just an ebony peg basically. How does it hold tension?

    Right on... that thing is crazy.  bet it sounds insane. a lot like the 20+ft grand piano.  "the giant". 

    I suppose a contra bass tuner w a gear probably would be a good thing, however on the octobass they clearly are using the classic style compression tuners.  I can't imagine what tuning that thing is like... those things must be pretty big and require a lot of tension... but then they seem to do it on a regular contra bass which has decidedly big strings.  I imagine you can buy a single tuner as folks must require replacements on their uprights all the time.   

  6. sounds interesting.  with a string that big I'm pretty sure a std tuner would work anyway... even a vintage tuner - the slot is only so wide.  probably would need to hold some serious tension... I think bizman's suggestion might be your only option other than perhaps using a clamp to lock the string down and a thumbscrew to make minor tension adjustments. 

    here's a giant stringed bass called the 'octobass'

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octobass#/media/File:Octobasse_Orchestre_Symphonique_de_Montréal_Eric_Chappell_1.jpg

     

  7. 1 hour ago, Bizman62 said:

    Sure. However the orbital will spread the dust also outside the disk. With a handheld manual sanding block there's no centrifugal blow. Search for "vacuum sanding block"s, there's plenty available in all price categories.

    totally thought you were joking... and now am not sure if you were... looked it up... it's a thing. 

  8. 6 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

    You need a sanding block that can be connected to a vacuum cleaner.

    you cracked me up w that one.

    3 minutes ago, willliam_q said:

    I have an orbital sander for most of the heavy work,  I can connect that to vacuum

    I have similar issues in my garage.  All my camping gear is just covered.  Could really use a dust collector altho when I was young and working as a sander with a industrial dust collector I still got full of sawdust.  I 'spose connecting a vacuum to the sander might help but I suspect a lot of it is going to get airborne no matter what you do.  Just part of the drill.  Maybe if one sanded IN a vacuum... but that might kill you so not sure it'd be worth it (hehe).

  9. 11 hours ago, Prostheta said:

    In principle, the idea is good. Unless there is a way to set up a maintenance free system on "our" end of things (significant time investment) the best way is to do it manually until it's apparent that wider adoption is happening. Then the tradeoff of investment towards built in functionality weighs better. 

    It's a good idea fundamentally. 

    I do appreciate you saying so (good idea).  

  10. 1 hour ago, pshupe said:

    Thank you.  I started this about 7 yrs ago and it is a great hobby.  I've met lots of cool people and try to meet up with forum members if I am traveling.  I can see retiring into this as it sure doesn't make financial sense considering how long it takes me to build a guitar but I enjoy it immensely..

    Yes Chris is a pretty awesome dude! Unfortunately he has gone over to the dark side and gotten himself into blacksmithing.  .😁  I try not to follow him too much in that respect as I may be tempted to buy a forge! I might also have to look for a new place to live if I did that.  I'm lucky to have a tolerant wife but do not want to push it.  😉 Just kidding.  I'm sure Chris will be back building some guitars at some point as well.  I would imagine he checks out the threads here as well.

    Cheers Peter.

     

    right on... I hear ya on the how long it takes.  have never sold a guitar and do it more for fun but if I did I'd have to charge eleventy million dollars to pay myself $8 hr.  Is a ton of fun tho.

    I saw that skyjer is now a smith... perhaps we'll see him on one of those knife making shows!  Anywho, I'll quit diverting your excellent thread. 

    cheers

    • Like 1
  11. 6 hours ago, pshupe said:

    Yep - that's me.  I've been a CAD monkey for about 30 years now.  From AutoCAD to 3DS Max to Revit and now onto Fusion 360.  Still got a lot to figure out but it's a lot of fun designing and then cutting stuff out on the CNC and then doing all the wood working and setup etc etc.  Don't get bored doing one thing when building guitars.  That's for sure.

    Cheers Peter.

    PS - skyjerk - Chris, got me over here.

    right on... well I think I can speak for everyone in saying we're glad/lucky to have you contributing.  also we're lucky to have skyjerk.

  12. 3 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

    I had to double check who sent that post to locate that house! That cabin could be found on any lake- or seaside in Finland or Sweden. Then again, the original Texans didn't build log houses, did they? I mean, the builder may well have had Fenno-Scandian roots...

    well in wisconsin... there is a lot of german and duch heritage... I don't know about finish or swedish but perhaps. 

     

    39 minutes ago, Prostheta said:

    Maybe. I've never liked that gappy stuffed joint style of log build though. I learnt how to do it the old school way with a scribing protractor, bevel gauge and square. Also axe, chainsaw and slicks. My work, but not my building. I was apprenticing for three months on this.

    IMG_20140415_151635.jpg

    geeeez.  dove tailed?  that is some nice stuff there.  yeah.... that stucco joint stuff is a bad idea in cold areas... constantly re-stuffing!  then again our cabin has been standing ofr over 100yrs think it sort of gets a pass for that!

×
×
  • Create New...