mistermikev

wow, some good info there. I was wondering how some got those razor sharp mitres.  was gonna use my chopsaw (jk).  note to self to build a drill press binding cutter.  excellent idea.

the mold - does offer a spark... perhaps I can create tiny little cloud pieces around a radius cut out of some sort.  or perhaps just use the actual and warm them up and press a mirrored piece on them and let them cool down.

"My mind is a raging torrent, flooded with rivulets of thought cascading into a waterfall of creative alternatives." - hedley lamarr

thank you!

5 minutes ago, ScottR said:

Love the planned colors.

SR

thank you sir... changed my mind on it a thousand times.  at one point was going to go with faux abalone binding and inlay but then thought "abalone clouds??!  that just isn't right" so switched to pearloid.  now if I can just get the actual to meet the theoretical!

on a side note, another challenge I'm realizing: the tip of the headstock.  I can't see inlay being one continuous piece there due to the strong angles on the 'cloud'.  If I cut it into small pieces I'm not sure I won't have issues with them sticking.  at this point am considering ending the binding and leaving the center 3 'humps' un bound but that feels like quitting before you start.  all advice on that point would be welcome.

hehe... that would be a real honor.  I've got to think it through at least a thousand more times before I make a move but... will do.

what a beauty... really nice burl, amazing work.

thank you for confirmation norris!

so this is what I'm basically shooting for... I used pics of my actual top and my actual tailpiece here so...

going to be fairly hollow:

got a few templates made so far...

challenges:

I'm a little unsure how my binding transition between neck and headstock should play out. 

ideas include

A. trying to put a slight angle on the headstock and keep the transistion straight(only have 7/8" material so... i don't know.  don't really want to glue in a scarf either so... maybe not.

B. just cut the headstock binding channel while the headstock is full thickness and simply stop the binding at a point close to the transistion. 

C. I'm doing a headstock overlay... could bind it prior to install or cut it short to make the binding channel (I believe this is what norris did?).

next step:

make the body route template.

... and templates galore:

some wood pile shots:

UPDATE: *-==========08/09/18==========-*

so... I've broken ground.  starting off at 6lbs 7oz... that is fairly light for 2" frican mahog, yes?  all for now.

UPDATE: *-==========08/12/18==========-*

made a little more progress this weekend...

1 outta 2 ain't bad: toggle cavity control plate worked swiimmingly - that dewalt saw is awesome... used a bigger saw for the other cavity but failed as the blade was too thick... so I'll have to pickup some 1/8" mahog for that.

revealed some nice grain planing down my neck blank...

UPDATE: -==========08/20/18==========-

obligatory  forstner shot

and after some work with the bowl bit...

down to 2lbs 9 oz

started to work on joining the top...

with the bit taking off 1/16" on either side...

=====================update 08/21/18

mr natural: you da man.  used your trick for gluing up my super thin top.  worked like a charm!  Here's a shot of the top being held down by a bunch of slate tile.

UPDATE: -==========08/26/18==========-

glued my top on...

used my dremel to cut the inlay channels in my fretboard...

final product...

routered off the excess on my top...

sounds great when you finger drum on it!

no puppy toys were harmed in the making of this photo...

UPDATE: -==========09/03/18==========-

so did binding this weekend... went pretty good all things considered.  I taped/dry-fitted and bent the binding first... using a hair dryer (heat gun is just too much for binding I think).  Then I used ca glue to go around the body again and pry-apart/glue/re-tape.

and a closeup...

started carving down my neck too... I still haven't round a good bandsaw so I used a jig saw.  This meant a lot of excess to remove... so I just used a straight edge and multiple passes to prevent blowout. 

one step closer!

update 10/1/18

Update 10/21/18

update 12/15/18 ======================================================DONE!

I'd give you a 100 thanks if I could.  Answered may of my questions -one being the length of the radius. thank you soo much for the awesome pics.  also... is that snakewood?  you gotta be kidding me!

I have seen variations where the router is fixed to the jig, and the jig moves on a set of fixed pvc pipes(or other) - this is what I was planning but you've got me 99% convinced it is not the way to go.  So now I am thinking to build the bearings version like yours... but to make the radius part flip-able.  I'm fixated on flip-able because it would allow me to build caul, sanding block, and scale up to do the top/back of guitar. 

my plan was to use aluminum fastened via bolts (for track rails) so that I could adjust the base height and conquer the issue of radius length/proximity (for the most part).  could work for either version.

I'm sorry, w/o a drawing I doubt very much of this would make sense to anyone other than me... just thinking out loud here.

26 minutes ago, Mr Natural said:

food for thought-in case you might like a more "really get to know your fingerboard" method. I still use this method-not sure why- a bit more work but I find it relaxing.

skip to 2:55 mark on the video. fwiw- this guy has some really great videos on his youtube site.

 

Right on, great video.  I'm kind of dead set on the idea of building something because I can't afford aluminum radius blocks in all the radius' I would want!

On 5/10/2018 at 2:46 PM, killemall8 said:

 

sorry, this one.  looks 3d.

I think with that in mind... and knowing my skill set or lack thereof... it'd be more wise to cut the body shape... then route a channel using some sort of guide... leaving very little wall... then sand through afterwards. or perhaps even doing card stock walls... have to think on that some more.  thanks for the advice.

my bad... page 9 the natural one - now that I look again - is that a thicker top or a really well hidden veneer (either way it's stunning)?

i think I may have seen that but walked off because I have no cnc.  ah yes - he pointed out that without precision your channel would likely not be uniform...

well... eh-hem...would love your thoughts if you can spare them @Andyjr1515

abso beauty as usual.  I recently thought to myself "I should get a tamo ash top"... now I know why you just don't see 1/4" tamo ash tops on guitars a whole lot.  I can't afford the veneer!

also, in general the quality of wood you work with is outstanding.  where in the world does one find a quilt top like THAT? 

so I've done some looking around at ideas for radius fretboard jig... was planning on taking a shot at it. 

my plan was to mount my router to a 24" board and do a radius cut... then move back an inch (compensating also for other side of blade) and cut another line.  do that twice to make two 12" radi cleats. 

attach together with a 3/4" square in the middle to mount my router on either side of it.  Should be able to make radius blocks, then flip over and radius a fretboard.  if that makes any sense. 

my question is... anyone use this type of jig and comments on how well the idea works?  pitfalls?

I'm guessing your best results will be running the router up and down the wood length-wise and then moving along the radius for another pass?

just throwing this out there... If I wanted to build a template for a guitar I didn't have... I'd find a straight on picture of it using google search -> 'tools' -> set to 'large images'... then I'd copy and paste into photoshop... then use the 'pen' tool to plot dots while zoomed in really close to make an outline of the body...

build a fret2find fretboard and set opacity to 60%... then scale up the image/shape until the fretboard matches the actual.  works for me anyway.

cool tele btw.  you can find that f hole by searching google... it's from a national.

so.. in that scenario you just cut the body a hair large and sand/rout after?  or perhaps just do a channel prior to ever cutting the body... interesting and creative solution.  I've seen folks do cardstock and wood molds but your idea is much more practical. 

interesting... love the metallic looking stuff.  gonna have to learn how to do a poured binding and build a white falcon w gold sparkle binding!!!

1 hour ago, ScottR said:

Recon stone used to show up every now and then.

SR

recon stone stands for reconstituted?  lots of potential there... sky is the limit afa color.  I suppose solid surface might be cool depending.  I have some turquoise dots that are kinda nice... but how to get a matching binding with turquoise?

thanks for the responses gentlemen!

11 hours ago, MiKro said:

used some pearl mop dust for paint mixed with clear bar top epoxy. It came out ok, will most likely try something like crushed Mop next time.

 

I would say that is a lot better than ok... looks great!

thinking about inlays... was looking at flat beads... why? well

1) $70 for decent 'cookie cutter' inlays might be good on a build or two but then what

2) might try something unconventional on a future build for stand out color/texture

been looking around and you can find paua and mop beads in differing sizes... I really like flat oval.  could get enough for a set of inlays for less than $20 and some good looking shell.  they tend to be a bit thick... just over an 1/8"... but I suppose one could work with that.  There are lots of other jemstones that might work like onyx... but I'm guessing you'd want that burried and then epoxied in so you don't have to sand it.

other ideas would be crushed stone of whatever type, then fill with epoxy.  I've seen this with turquoise and we have a lot of it in az... what else?

can  you tell me some of your unconventional inlay ideas/experiences?

I better get started then!  ;)  I sincerely hope someone finds the info useful.

thank you sir, don't want to wear out my welcome!

sorry for so many posts lately! 

so last week I (also) ordered some tops from 'downhomewood' on etsy - has anyone else tried them?
You don't get to pick between quilt/flame/burl - it's random chance between those 3.  Liz from DHW, assured me "you'll be happy - look at our reviews" (they do have good reviews).
They are 1/4 tops for $30 ea and shipping is $15 for up to 3, so I snagged 2 of them.

I just got them in the post (last night) and am pleasantly surprised.  One is quilt and the other is sort of quilt/flame.  Just the other day I almost pulled the trigger on a 1/8" quilt top for $125 on evilbay.  DHW def scratched that itch!  

Just wanted to pass along the tip - in case anyone was on the fence like me - I think it is a super deal.  What do you think?  Pics below.

quilt:

the flame/quilt

as promised...

figured redwood

birdseye

my take -

both boards seem to be straight with no noticeable bow or cup

the redwood: stands out as stunning to me.  love the color and the figure the most.  light weight. 

the birdseye: in person it's got some really pretty wavy grain lines going up the center.  the board has a lot of light "quilting".  the birdseyes themselves are light in color and all over it.  all of that seems to be washed out in the photo - that's probably on me.  I bet it will really show nice with some dye