Bizman62

That's some tidy carving! All the curves are continuous and the angle doesn't wave. The horn looks almost like a molded plastic thing with a wood figure drawn onto it, or an object in a graphic benchmark testing how well the video card can handle the lighting on semi shiny angled surfaces.

Hehe... I totally understand, believe me! I was out of "likes" in the beginning as well. To stay alert of what's happening "now" I first marked all posts "read" so I could concentrate on the latest topics - after all the same questions rise up all the time so joining an ongoing discussion makes more sense to me than reading ancient comments of inactive members. That doesn't mean there isn't anything to learn about in the old posts and every now and then one of them resurrects for a while.

Thanks! Up/down indeed must be faster although I put mine left/right, maybe because of tradition. Slanted Tele switches may be targeted for hardcore Strat players... And the joy of a Gibby switch is that it can be slanted any direction! All that said, my understanding of using the switch during a certain song is very limited. I've seen vids about very good players switching amidst a solo, maybe because they think that certain positions on the fretboard require another pickup but for me that's something I can't judge.

Because I didn't play it! What a lovely journey! Thanks for sharing.

Indeed! Fancy tops are sooo last season! A sultry back, now that's something!

Good arguments! Do your switches work up-down or right-left? Why? Have you tried the other option or did you just follow your instinct?

Hmm... don't they make P90 covers in chocolate brown? To match the inlays and knobs, that is. Really, a quick search revealed that Bare Knuckle sells covers in all the colours of a rainbow but when searching for brown only wooden ones were found. Then again, there was 30 woods listed at DKnob and more by request.

In the long run that's a better option especially if there's something in the photos that can help learning a thing or getting an idea for designing. There's tons of dead links in the early posts most likely because the image hosting license of the poster has expired. How coincidental, you seem to like the Gibsony 3-way switch between the pots - and that's exactly what I've done in my latest build!

Hello and welcome! Waiting eagerly to see your stories and pictures.

Angled handles! Yay! A method that's both safe and accurate. and often forgotten.

That's a neat little trick there! It's way too easy to nudge the opposite end a bit off every time you're aligning the centerline at the other end.

Thanks, good to know an EU place!

Having seen your builds here I was very hesitant to toss any ideas. But yes, that's the beauty of a community. You can share your mishaps and someone says something that makes you rethink and find a solution.

My eyes like the proportions of the middle one best.

At least your imagination is working! That looks much better than the broad stripes. And it still is an "easy" fix to make. Just to feed some more wood into the fire, how about this idea: put in the broad EIR stripes but inlay a strip of the curly maple within. Maybe even thin accent stripes around the curly stripe?

I've seen one being in progress on video and heard about the project from a guy who also popped up on those vids. That must have been the cheapest way to make one: The guy laminated "discarded" fingerboard blanks to a block. Don't know how that saga ended, though...

Thanks for the suggestion Mike. Veijo promised to do it in the near future. He already has the tools needed so for the price and time it would take to get a c-clamp and the magnets he'd do a professional job. Heck, I don't even know where to buy magnets outside evilbay and that would take half of the Summer!

That's exactly what I meant. The quilted maple is too pretty to be hidden any more than what is really needed to hide the damage. Which makes me think if you could make the EIR stripes narrower than the center one... 2/3 of that width maybe? Sort of a Golden Ratio thing, like EIR + quilt = curly.

Straight stripes are always classy, there's the continuity with the neck etc. As there's already a broad center stripe of maple which binds it to the neck, stripes matching with the fretboard sound like a plan.

Well... I do remember that I abstained from advising you, but: EVH has already been done in so many ways. I'm sure your imagination is capable of creating something original!

The neverending saga continues... Last Saturday I finally got the tuners attached, Gotoh staggered locking ones, two heigths. For some odd reason the bass end trio sits a bit deeper than the treble side three. Either I've managed to drill aligned holes in triplets or the short shafted ones have a different body. Doesn't look too bad and can only be seen if you inspect closely so no big deal. Also put the strings on and filed the nut slots with my trusty roughened feeler gauge set. And found out why the 43 mm neck was too narrow: On the bass side the fretboard widens like a wedge. I could file it a bit but again it's just a mm or so. And the treble side of the neck has a slight arc inwards but again nothing that prevents playing. I know several ways to make them right, the biggest issue seems to be that I don't trust my sawing skills and cut them a bit oversized. And all drawn lines vanish with sanding! On Sunday I thought I'd shield the control cavity. After an hour's unsuccessful search for my roll of copper tape I finally took my bottle of Crimson conductive paint and noticed that it had mostly solidified and the watery black stuff that came out after poking and shaking didn't want to stick. By smell I'd say it's pretty much similar to the online recipes of mixing selected coal dust and regular white glue. So into the kitchen I went and took a piece of the thicker aluminium foil. Pressed it into the cavity to get it shaped and used some spray adhesive to attach the alu-cup. Not pretty but does the job. The electrickery has now been done. There's good news and bad ones: There's no hum which means the shielding works properly. But the pickups need magnetizing, the bass side of the neck pickup is very silent and a couple of poles in the bridge pickup as well. Veijo checked them with a screwdriver and noticed that the silent parts were barely magnetic. When I told about the issue to my friend who wound them at school he wasn't surprised. Apparently the magnetizer at the Ikaalinen School of Luthiery isn't too good. But I got a sound of the guitar and the sound was good where it came through! The acoustic sound is good as well, nice and mellow. When I strum all strings and put my ear against the body I can hear the notes ringing for half a minute so there's sustain as well. And it's lightweight, with all the hardware installed it's 2.27 kg or 5 lbs! And the finish simply sucks. I have to take the acrylic rattle can lacquer off at some point, it seems to melt either because of sweat or body heat to a tacky matte mess.

The current build can be seen here: https://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/50745-started-a-t-type/?do=findComment&comment=584956 The previous ones can be found in my profile under the About Me tab.

Exactly! The first application can take quite an amount of oil, the next layers only a drop or three. Your tool looks interesting. For what I've experienced it seems a bit overkill but it's not too complicated to build and if it feels comfortable it's the best option for you. If you mean applying more oil using wet sanding paper notice that the paper may leave coloured residue. At least that's what I found out using the Scotch-Brite type felt. It might also have been some dirt and grime from my hands...

Hi and welcome! That bed looks gorgeous! As @curtisa said there's no reason not to go thin as long as you can make the electronics fit. One big bonus is the reduced weight. My current project is a radiused top poplar body T-type which is about 38mm at the thickest spot. It's now close to being finished, with all the hardware it weighs a whopping 2.27 kg or 5 lbs and an open string rings forever. If you want to go thicker you can use the 36 mm for a bottom layer and splice a length for a bookmatched top. That would be 36+18=54 mm which would be plenty thick. Well, you'll lose a couple of mm's in resawing but still. Tops for carving are typically some 16 mm so that would be very typical. You could also use a dark veneer to separate the top and bottom pieces. Lots of interesting options there!

Ouch! That's the type of accident I don't like as there's no one to blame, not even yourself! As you already know how to make inlays to make flaws to features I won't provide any advice. I strongly believe that the patching will be something gorgeous!