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Woltz last won the day on November 3 2020

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  1. Ok here is the most recent update. I have removed a lot of the excess wood with the band saw on boards 2, 3 and 4. And I've started blending in areas that get missed by the bandsaw with a 60 grit disc on my angle grinder. I've also cut out the notches for the front legs. My next step with the seat is the clean up the front leg notches with my router plane and then I can do the rebates (the router bits I ordered have arrived) for the front and back legs. After that there is a bit more shaping to be done with the angle grinder and then I can glue up the seat. Front on vi
  2. Hey mate, you should get an email now with a Google Drive link.
  3. P.M. me your email address mate and I'll send you the file. I haven't made a template from the plans yet so there may be some minor tweaks required that only become apparent when the templates have been made but it should give you a starting point.
  4. So I put the first plans I purchased away (I'll donate them and the templates I made to the woodworking club I'm a part of) because there was a number of things I wanted done differently. Given this is my first chair I lashed out and purchased the Charles Brock plans and DVD. Here is where I am up to with the seat. Seat boards to width and test clamped = done. Cut the bevels on the edges of select boards to cooper the seat = done. Drilled the dowel holes ready for glue up = done. Back leg maloof joint = in progress (have cut the corner area but waiting for router
  5. Like all of my projects, time seems to disappear and I haven't done much. But I have started carving the top. I roughed out the platform around the edge where the purfling will go first and then I've started doing the rough carve. I also cut the scroll out.
  6. If you both p.m. me your email addresses I'm happy to send you both the plans. The PDF is 1:1 scale.
  7. Off the form for the first time. It will go back onto the form when I glue the back on when I'm ready but it's much easier and safer to break the blocks free from the form prior to having a nicely carved back plate attached. After the pegs came off I trimmed the linings back and sanded the whole face flat.
  8. I decided to polish the neck as the couple of small spots where the colour is different isn't obvious. The clear came off the gun nicely so I just did a tiny smooth out with some 2000 grit. But I noticed as I was polishing that I'd had a tiny little sand through on the headstock. I have no idea how because I barely did any sanding and I was using virtually zero pressure. I can only assume the finish was very very thin at that one spot. You can see it in the first picture where the gloss ends. Now I'm not sure whether to just leave it or spray it again. Here are some other pho
  9. I've been a bit slow getting things done over the last few weeks but here is an update. The mortices for the linings in the C bouts have been cut. The linings are almost ready to be glued in, they just need to be planed down to the correct thickness first. I also reduced the Belly and Back down to the correct thickness and cut out the rough outline. Next step is to file the edges down to my pencil line and then I can start on the carving.
  10. So I had an Ah F#$k moment on the weekend. Yet again my nemesis (guitar finishing) got me. I sprayed the guitar and neck with the new spray gun (which I have to say sprayed so much nicer than the cheap one I had previously). After spraying though I was left with a blotchy finish on the edges of the guitar and whilst the neck wasn't blotchy, the colour didn't change at all and it doesn't look like I was expecting. After reading a bit more online most people seem to recommend clear coating first and then aquacoat, then sanding and then spraying final clear. Now I'll have to sand the body and see
  11. I've done the grain filling with Aquacoat. All going to plan I hopefully will spray the clear coat this weekend.
  12. This is a good idea! I've seen a similar example for the headrest if you don't have a thick enough piece of wood to cut the curve. In this situation the rockers are actually laminated not a solid piece. Multiple thin strips glued together and clamped into the form so that as the glue dries it stays in the shape of the form.
  13. So I'm just getting started on the rocker now. I didn't quite have enough Silky Oak for a full chair but I already have another plan for that wood. Instead I went and bought some West Australian Jarrah and I've been working on the templates. I've also started making the jig to laminate the rockers. There are a couple of things that I am going to do differently to the plans (e.g. coopering the seat and having 7 spindles instead of 5) so I'll be working slowly to try and minimise the chance of mistakes or oversights. An example of one of the things I have to con
  14. It is galvanised pipe because it was the easiest to source where I am. I'm aware of the issue with the fumes as I'm actually a Chemist. Before using it the first time I cranked it up full heat to burn off as much of the galvanising as I could whilst wearing respiratory protection. But very good point to raise just in case there are others that are not aware of the issue.
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