radrobgray

ive been thinking about getting/starting a rack. any body ever tryed the Rocktron Prophesy or Prophesy II. i read some reveiws but i would like to hear from you guys as i trust you more. is it a good preamp and are the effects great? im not really into uber amounts of effects i just like some reverb/delay on leads, plus the sparingly occational use of other effects. i was thinking about this for my rack: Furman Power Conditioner *some random wireless unit* maybe Rocktron Prophesy I or II Rocktron solid state 50/50 poweramp (lessons, practice) Marshall El34 100/100 poweramp (live and band practice) midi foot switch of some kind any thing im missing? any special condsiderations im not, well, considering? thanks rob

all my floyd gutiars have better pull up than the one with the kahler.

Bah humbug! Measure the compression on your top the next time you clamp up....two thou is 1/5th of your high-E string, its 50 microns...it's a hair man! Literally. human hair diameter Now, Rob G may not have measured the gap accurately. However...if you think your jointing is flat and straight at better than 50 microns across 20", you're fooling yourself. For the record, you can find a glue line on very light-colored woods no matter how tight your joint is and how white your glue is, if you look hard enough. id have to disagree. you can see a .002". if you can see a human hair you could see light thru that gap. i may have mesured it wrong but i guess that doesnt matter. all that matters to me is that i get it jointed properly. also i understand there will always be a glue line, i was just trying to minimize the chance of having one bigger than i could help. anyways i fixed it by starting with southpa's method and then finishing with fryovanni's. thanks to all who have commented, rob

ive been trying to joint my 1/4 top for 2 days and im still getting gaps. ive tryed the different ways i found in search but to no avail, gaps. my question is it even possable to get it perfect? mines pretty close but there is a small gap that i can see when i hold the peices together up to the light. i checked the gap with a feeler guage and is about .002" or less is some spots. i know thats not a lot, but i just dont want to get a fat noticeable glue line. thanks rob

thank you

who is this John Watkins and where may i look at his producs?

so ive decided i am going with a compound radius fb. but i have a few concerns. if i do a 10"-12"-14"-16" radius wouldnt i need to continue the change of radius all the way to the bridge? as in: nut10"-12"-14"-16"-bridge18" or 20". im asking because i am going to do this to a guitar that will have a floyd rose, so i need to know if i need shims for the saddles or not. what is the best combo of radii for a compound raduis? also how would i go about pressing the frets in with stew macs inserts. the compoundedness of the fret board mean that the radii will be differnt at every fret. is it ok to use a insert that is close or is it best if its the exact same radius? thanks rob

i bought a hamer scarabII, it has 2 HBs and a 3 way switch. but it sounds not normal in the middle position. it doesnt sound like any other guitar i have ever played. it sounds like a wha is on, ala Michael Shenkers lead tone. are the pups out of phase or what? if so how can i wire my other gutiars to do this.

well, what problems am i asking for? also if its not suggested why is there tutorial in the "Solid Body Guitar and Bass Tutorials & Reference" area?

im bending a drop top over a arm-contour and to avoid crackin someone suggested veneer softener (i had previouse problems wiht this on a 1/8" piece of brizillian cherry). would i work on a 1/4" maple top? any expereince? i thought id ask because well 1/4" is way thicker than veneers.

that would cost you more that the guitar. just find a guitar that has all the things you want. then you wont end up spending heaps of money.

I can't see any difficulty in this part at all. Pull out your favourite no.5 plane and do what it does best. This, I'm curious about also. i.e. body or neck gets the angle planed in. Q/Sawn timber preferred for a thru neck (IMO). Which end do you plane out to the neck angle? Leave the body section untouched and attack the neck area for your angle? Or vice versa? I'm not too sure which would be preferred. cheers, Stu for the angle i draw my lines, cut off most of the bulk with a band saw(in the body side), then i glued the wings on acorrding to the lines i drew, then i get out the hand plane and make it flush wiht the two body wings. heres an pic of how i cut my neck blanks with out a scarf.

its not glued its just clamped on right now. i have enough for another sub-top or to patch it. its only 1/8" thick. im going to put another top over this one (the 1/4" flame maple). i used a cloths iron and water. +1 and your contour has a sharp bend (at least in the rendering) which needs a very soft transistion this is a more common problem than some would like to admit but ive seen it happen to 3 tops in two months its not super sharp it drops only about 1/4" if that and is very gradual. there were no problems when i bent it it was fine. i think it cracked from when the water evaporated.

so i carved the arm contour on my soloist, and then i bent my sub-top over the contour. every thing went smooth and it was fine after i clamped it. but when the it finished drying it cracked (see picture), the crack is 1/8" wide to nothing and about 8" long. how should i approach fixing it? it doesnt need to look good from the top, just the endgrain, beacuse im glueing on a flame maple top on top of the sub-top. is that a bad idea? also the sub-top is 1/8" thick brazilian cherry/jobota. the top is 1/4" thick flame maple. ***digital rendering***

well ive always been a (original) floyd rose guy. but, personally i belive one is not better than the other, they are just different. they are both awsome Kahaler pros: Easy string change (no cutting of ball ends) Smoother feel Softer bar tension smaller cavity adjustable every thing kahler cons: NO flutters not as much pull up as the floyd and I think that theyre uglier. in the middle position on the pups it doesnt sound like any other guitar i have ever played. it sounds like a wha is on, ala michal schenker. are the pups out of phase? or what?

so i had some extra money from my new job and i felt like spending it. i ended up picking up a 1985 Hamer USA Scarab II, very judas preist, for about $350 W/ a case. the paints a little worn but no major damage and the hardware is pretty much new. i thought it was a sweet deal. all this talk about kahlers had me wondering. full shot guitar and case

when you said bloody sharkfin inlays i thought you may have injured your self tying to inlay them. those are sweet.

j frog?

or you could use a ORF which has a 10" radius nut and bridge and then shim your bridge saddles to a different radii, so you could use the stew mac board.

when i was 14 i could play better than that, but, playing and writing are completely different.

thank you very much!

thats how wide a floyd rose nut is and i have used that board in conjunction with one, and i just double checked.

from the font of the slot to the end is 5/8"

i know how to do it but when should i? i have a 1/8" peice of brazillian cherry i want to put on a guitar with a forearm contour. it will bend over the contour if i push on it with my hand(takes a decent amount of pressure). so i guess what i was wondering is since it will already make the bend without breaking should i still steam it or just glue it. also if i do steam it should i center join it before or after, this applies to my flame maple top too. thanks rob

heres a pic of it with the wings attached and roughed. soon i will carve the arm contour and then put on the 1/8" brazillian cherry top. after that i can then attach the bm flamemaple drop top.