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asgeirogm

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  1. I have some progress pics I'm going to post later but I've ran into trouble and for some reason I am utterly defeated and need some help and motivation. I had an accident with the router and needed to make a repair on the headstock, which is fine, but I made a mistake and the piece I glued on was not level with the front of the headstock but maybe just under a millimeter lower. So, I thought I would just sand the front of the headstock level with the glued piece, but I'm seeing now that I've sanded myself into trouble in the nut area, namely: The nut has been moved several millimeters down the neck, which makes the headstock look weird and too long if I keep it that way My sanding was clearly not as precise as I would have wanted as it's not square The end of the truss rod channel is no longer behind the start of the headstock. I could move the truss rod down the neck by a few millimeters though Sanding the front of the headstock exacerbated an issue I already had, which is that the transition from neck to headstock is pretty thin, there is no volute and it might even end up thinner than with a regular scarf joint because of a mistake I made earlier where I planed the neck profile too far into the headstock part Here are a couple of pics to illustrate the issues. The pencil line is roughly where the headstock "started" before this fiasco The headstock is just over 15 millimeters thick right now, and the thickness under the nut is just over 15 millimeters as well (fretboard is 6 mm thick). The only thing I can think of that would solve problems 1, 2 & 3 is to plane the top of the headstock ever so slightly so that the transition from the headstock is square with the neck, and then make a mahogany cap for the headstock, which would essentially look exactly the same as the top of the headstock right now. This would allow me to basically transform the headstock, truss rod stuff and nut area to what is was before this whole thing. The only thing I'm not sure about is if that has any positive effects on the strength of the headstock/neck join. It seems so silly (and a bit annoying to be honest) to put an identical cap on the headstock, but it's the only solution I can come up with. I really wouldn't like to put a different type of wood cap if I could avoid it, I like the mahogany a lot as a continuance of the body. I would really love it if some of the "older" heads here could give me some advice on what my best approach would be here EDIT: I just realized I could also sand the top of the neck down by probably around a millimeter, just until the start of the headstock is moved back to the original "line". This would by far be the easiest solution , but it would of course make the headstock/neck transition even thinner though, does that make that a no go? The neck is Sapele btw. I can take a picture of the end grain if that's relevant
  2. Sorry for resurrecting this 3 year old thread but I wanted to ask if you finished this one and have some more pics? I love me a 335/355/336/356!
  3. Not the first time I've read about People having that issue on PG, which at least makes me super aware of it for My own build On a sidenote, I very happy I hadn't drilled the truss rod access hole before discovering it was upside down!
  4. My digital calipers are on the fritz but I would claim it was flush and then I lowered the bit by 0.2mm (according to the adjustment wheel thing on the Makita plunge router). In any case, it should be less than 0.5mm. I actually think I don't need to deepen under the trussrod nut, so I think all is well, unless someone tells me otherwise
  5. Man am I glad you told me that. Just tried putting in the correct way and the Chanel is indeed a hair too deep. Should I sand the top of the neck a bit so it's sitting flush ? Or should I just leave it?
  6. It's actually a Göldo WS44G Trussrod: https://www.thomann.de/dk/goeldo_ws44g_trussrod.htm I would really assume that the blue part should be up, does that sound right?
  7. Progress on the neck, created a jig for routing the truss rod Routed and chiseled. At first I had it completely flush with the top of the neck but then the cylinder for the Allen key was sticking a hair above the opening, so I took one more shallow pass so the cylinder is completely in the channel, but that means that the square ends of the rod are a hair under the top of the neck. Is that OK? Cut the headstock and preparing to glue the top of the banana (wink wink). Also pictured is the headstock template I 3d printed. I've always loved the 1976+ headstock, it always reminded my of a cartoon sneaker shoe, which I think is fun, so I went with that over the 1958 headstock. Dry fit after sanding the edges, looking pretty good GluG Glue removed and headstock sanded a bit, ready to be rough cut with the jig saw I'm a tall guy and my back has been killing me since yesterday when I was hunched over the workbench chiseling out the ends of the truss rod channel, so I improvised to increase the height of the neck when sawing. Muuuuuuch better H Headstock cut, and I'm loving it! Now I need to find my pattern bit which I have misplaced since using it weeks ago when routing the body...
  8. That makes sense, I'll have to see if I can acquire such a beam for a reasonable price
  9. The best I can come up with is creating a pin router setup, which doesn't sound bad. I just realized that the reason I couldn't get my scarf joint square straight from the router is probably that I hadn't planed the back of the neck so it is uneven from handsawing from both sides, so it must be that it was uneven where it was resting on the edge. I think I will try this approach again on my next build and just make sure the back of the neck is flat.
  10. Hand cut the scarf joint, came out quite crooked Wanted to see if I could skip creating a jig for routing/sanding, so I put the neck at 13 degrees Seemed to work pretty well, but I couldn't get it to be completely square despite making many minor adjustments. Ended up planing the neck and headstock together like this and then just sanding until it was square. Here I've also thicknessed the headstock part Glued the scarf joint After clamping everything, I noticed that the headstock part had lifted a tad from the surface, so I "hammered" that down with my hands and could hear some friction crackling noise coming from where the headstock meets the anti-slip block, but didn't think anything of it. Realized a few minutes later that when I banged the headstock part back down to the surface, it was also slipping away from the joint and pushing the anti-slip block further away/dug into the block (which was the noise I heard). Note to self for future scarf joint gluing: square the end of the headstock and properly clamp the anti-slip block: Turns out the headstock slipped enough to create about a millimeter height difference from the top of the neck. Damn... I thought I was in trouble here and was considering how best to solve this; should I plane this with the router sled or try to sand it? Then I realized I should try my new steel beam that my neighbor got me from his workplace. So I glued some 80 grit on there and let me tell you, this steel beam is my new favorite tool. A few minutes and the thing was dead flat. The beam is very long, 80 cm, which has it's benefits, but I'm thinking maybe it's not going to be so nice when leveling the frets, so I've asked my neighbor for some shorter ones as well. Hopefully I can squeeze in some time to route the truss rod channel tomorrow, maybe even use the router sled to plane the neck profile. I have a question: I have a slotted ebony fingerboard and I'm wondering how best to proceed with tapering the neck and the fretboard. I'm a little bit worried that if I taper the neck, then glue the fretboard and route the fretboard using the neck for the bearing, that the fretboard will chip from the slots. I would do a normal cut towards the nut on the right side and a climb cut on the left to minimize the likelihood of tearout but I'm still worried about it. The alternative would be to taper the fretboard and then use that to taper the neck, but the neck is longer than the fretboard so I would have to get a little creative. Thoughts? Edit: Actually I just realized that since the fretboard is radiused, then I can't really work with the router on top of that. What is my best option here for tapering the neck and radiused & slotted fretboard?
  11. Looking great, I can't wait see the inlays cleaned up
  12. Great tips guys,thanks a lot! That's what I did
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