hooglebug

oo you swine! thats what i called my V

you could just use the strat switch to have the three individually and then a mini on/off toggle for whichever you wanted. that way you could use the mini toggle to combine the bridge lets say, with either of the other two. or you could use a push/pull pot if you didnt want to change the cosmetic look of your guitar

if you mean just an ordinary 3 way switch, these are usually used on 2 pickup guitars to have either or both on. im sure a strat type switch could be wired that way but what if you decide one day that you want to combine them? maybe an on/off for each pu, or a 3 way for the hbs and a mini toggle for the sc?

we're only talking 1mm here. 1mm between 6 polepieces is 0.166666666mm difference for each polepiece. i cant see there being any problem at all.

o. then i guess just go over everything and check it. check that everything thats meant to be grounded is and that all the contacts are clean

yes it is a ground problem. does it buzz more when you touch the strings? if so then its probably the ground to the bridge. i had this problem with a bass. i put a small screw in the control cavity and took the ground from the bridge out and put it to the screw and that worked. its probably not the right thing to do but it worked for me. the bass has no buzz at all now. someone else will probably have the right answer though

it depends what type of access you have to the electrics. if there's a backplate it shouldnt be too difficult, but if there isnt it will be very fiddly. and of course you'd have to route a hole for the pickup. as for the wiring, it depends what you want. you could have a mini toggle that just turns the sc on/off so you can add it to any combination of the other pickups. but again, thats another hole.

whats going on is just a diagram of a dpdt switch as viewed from underneath. that particular diagram is of a series/parallel switch (which allows you to switch from series - how humbuckers are usually wired, to parallel - which gives a more single coil type sound). other than that i dont really know what you're asking. do you mean you dont know how to insert this switch into your existing circuit or that you want to use a dpdt switch to do something else like coil split or phase switching?

im guessing he's going to use a strat bridge and the pup route goes into the spring route

you could just try putting a dab of glue (wood glue or epoxy) in the pickup adjustment holes and then screw the old screws in (when the glue is dry obviously) and they'll make new threads. not great if they're going to be adjusted a lot but why would they?

www.simscustom.com. its £350 for a whole body in chrome or mirror ($577 US)

i was kinda leaning to the side of tapping down to 1 hb and single. so if i was to do that id wire the first switch as you described for tapping to 1 hb, then use the diagram for the pair id want to tap to a single? or would i have to do something else?

i think its totally disappeared. http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/led.htm this is a good starting point to understanding leds. as for anything more, again, try doing a google search on it

Im about to get a Kent Armstrong Motherbucker and i just have a few ponderings about wiring. Im putting in an existing circuit so i have a set amount of switches - 2 dpdt (on/on) I know that i want to tap the pickup (to make it a single hb), but what do people think would be the best use for the other switch? Also, if anyone knows how to wire the tap and the other switch, i'd be very grateful. I've searched but can't really find anything

just do a google search for guitar wiring diagrams and theres loads of stuff out there. just an hour of reading and you could learn a whole lot of stuff

well iv found it in the ultimate guitar book. bad news for you im afraid is - 'Guyatone "Rythm Guitar": This Fender influenced Japanese guitar was made in the early 70's. It came complete with an onboard drum machine offering five preset rythms via a rotary selector and a "Start" switch. The black knobs controlled drum volume and tempo.' sorry, but unless you can find some original parts it looks like you're just going to have to come up with something else to do with it.

it might help people to know whats written on the scratchplate around the holes. iv found pictures of the controls of an lg50, but no luck so far with the 23

i dont think just turning the pickup around will do it. what they're talking about is turning the actual magnet inside the pickup, so that the poles are reversed. turning the pickup around will do nothing except having an upside down pickup. if i were you id do some serious research before i tried anything, and make sure you know exactly what you're doing

um. are you actually serious? i dont want to sound mean but this is very basic stuff. yes it matters. one is hot, one is ground. the one coming from the casing of the volume pot is ground. that one goes to the hole on the jack thats at the top of this picture http://www.rosetti.co.uk/spares/images/ele...backer08002.jpg] theres lots of sites out there with basic wiring tutorials. have a read of a few, they'll serve you well and you'll learn some pretty cool and easy things to do with your guitars

well, i think i did the probe thing ok. but i dont really know. when you say a test signal what exactly do you mean? i know im being a bit of an idiot but i want to be sure of everything. when i tested it (at least when i thought i was testing it) the only things that sounded different were a cap that was connected to a transistor (not a germanium one). the cap and one wire of the transistor sounded different but the other two transistor wires sounded like the rest of the circuit. but im not sure i did it right.

i'll give it a try tomorrow. well, later today as it technically is tomorrow. if you see what i mean.

yes i tried but like you said he's very busy and says he cant give support for guitar installations. which i understand - he'd probably have no time for anything else if he did that. i just cant think what it could be thats stopping it from working. iv tested it for continuity, and although everything that is conected directly to each other has continuity, from the input to the output doesnt. and indeed, the signal from the guitar doesnt even get through, regardless of whether or not the effect is switched on

well iv just tried it and no. it doesnt work. so now i have ruined a guitar and a fuzz factory. great. all iv done to it is remove two of the pots and extended them with some wire, change the led and its resistor, and lengthened some of the wires coming from the circuit board. Also, a couple of the wires from the circuit board came loose or came off so i reattached them. im 99% certain i attached them in the right places, but if i didnt i have no way of knowing. There are a few holes with nothing attached to them (as there were before i did anything to it). If anyone has a vexter fuzz factory, please tell me which wire goes in which holes - eg: yellow wire - r3 etc. im not asking for a schematic or a circuit board diagram so i can make my own and cheat zack out of some money, i just need to know if my wires are in the right places, because thats all i can think of. PLEASE HELP ME!!!

I'm wiring a fuzz factory into my guitar, but something is just not working. Iv tried the switch (3pdt) two different ways, and both times it has worked as an on/off switch for the whole guitar, and the ff doesnt work at all. its a vexter series and so has an led, which also fails to turn on. The two ways iv done it are - using the orignal wiring on the switch as it was in the pedal, substituting the pedal input with the guitar output and - using a bypass switch set out as below empty linked - linked led guitar in guitar out earth ff in ff out i cant see that anything else is wrong, and this is making me mad as hell! any suggestions from anyone?

its highly unlikely that i'll ever use a seperate amp/pa for the piezo, so would it be better to wire the magnetic and piezo to the same lug, and the batteries to the other?