butnut

Yes you can. I do as the old paint, especially if it's poly, serves as a good smooth base. When you remove the old finish completely, you'll have to seal the wood. If you just shoot primer, it will get fuzzy, grainy and the wood will soak up a lot of primer. Save yourself the grief, sand and prime. I let the primer dry at least a day and if the sanding scratches show up, I'll sand smooth with 400, wipe clean and shoot the color. Here's a Strat I did, short cut as I used a special sealer that I shoot over 'soft' to bond the top coat. You can just use primer and go... Strat refinish

Can I see the tat? And any info on it...if it's a water rub on thing...kinda doubtful, may have better luck with a real decal, but those can react under clear too.

Sounds very much like the new UV cure Bondo. I used the new Bondo on the flamed Tele to fill screwholes and level off the wood filler for the neck pup. Very different texture from original Bondo, kinds gummy, looks like thick snot. Kinda opaque creamy whiteish. I'm sure you could add pearl to color it, Sands OK, even in the hot sun it did'nt cure rock hard like to old stuff, but still sandable.

I prefer to freehand layout using the 1/8" 3M blue tape, but HOK sells airbrush templates, I've never used 'em but I've seen them at the shop, they look like a good scale size for guitar bodies. I would think they work by just using an airbrush and shoot heavy at the edge and let the middle ghost. FLAME TEMPLATES

You won't be able to buff out 800 grit scratches...I would'nt even attempt it with my 3000 rpm buffer and cutting pads. I've never seen the fine grits in hardware stores, shops who sell body shop paint and supplies will carry it (check your yellow pages) and NAPA carries it as they sell paints too.

Nice pics lovekraft. Good examples. You'll need to use tape to get that crisp edge and heavier build of pearl there. Freehand airbrushing will look too fuzzy. I use the HOK pearls and PPG clears, lacquer for flakes and poly for the pearl. The HOK stuff is real pricey, I bought everything from primer to clears for my PUCH moped...going on 5 years to complete it. The PPG poly is a fast cure but anything shot too heavy will run, thats why I shoot the bodies flat, when I hung 'em, I would get a run. Good luck.

Sounds like a kool setup especially if its working for ya. Just be real careful with that fan...it 'can' throw a spark...and if there are fumes, very bad. Spraybooths use quite expensive 'sparkproof' exhaust fans for this very reason. Even light switches can have sparks. It's the airborne fumes that are the most flammable and easily ignited, just be careful dude. If this room is designed for 'drying' purposes and not spraying, it's probably fine. Danish oil is good stuff, I used it a lot in my refinishing biz. BUT please note the caution regarding the used rags for application. These rags will self combust! They must be soaked in water and disposed of properly...never leave 'em lying around, a covered metal can is best until they can be disposed...I have witnessed oil rags combust, and partially burn a shop. OK, safety rant is over...be safe guys.

If you have a NAPA or any auto parts store that carries paints will have it. For regular finish work, 1200,1500 and 2000 is what you need for final sanding.

I would'nt paint anything in an unventilated room as almost everything will emit some kind of fumes while drying. I suppose a waterbased product would be OK, but even house paint latex smells pukey to me. Cold and dampness are the least favorable conditions for any finish work. Don't wanna rain on your parade bro, but I'd wait till it's warm and sunny or find a temp controlled paint booth. You may be waiting a long time for paint to dry...can't play a soft gooey guitar.

Ghost flames are kool. True ghost flames don't appear unless light hits 'em. They look good on black, but I've see 'dark' ghosts on white too. The House of Kolor has the best 'pearls' I've used. The frosty pearls look 'white'...even the colors like green red etc. This is what is shot on cars when you want a color change in light...invisible in clear. I use their Azrek Gold pearl which looks like a dark gold pearl...this will give a heavy pearl color without light, but still transparant depending on how heavy you shoot. I'm sure they have it on other colors which is what I would use for ghost flames. You'll need to test the amount of pearl powder you mix in your clear...always a guess. 1/2 of my pinky finger nail of powder (on a popsicle stick) is usually enough for my paint cup...much less if using an airbrush, you gotta experiment to get the right amount of color mixed in with the clear. I higly recommnend the 3M blue plastic fine line tape for masking and making your design. The 3M green tape is good for masking large areas on fresh paint. lovekraft covered all the other bases, yeah, I'd check to see you don't have a prized original...I only repaint repop or Squire Fender bodies. Good luck. Flame tape off with 3M tapes and paper

They pry off. Try with your fingers first. Some wrap some cloth under it and pull...the knobs will go sailing...some have used a spoon on top of some padding to protect the finish. There's even a tool sold for this, like a mini crowbar. Just be careful and they'll come off. The nut holds the pot to the body.

Yeah, I shoot automotive products, acrylic lacquer is my choice for kandies for the fast build and fast dry. I usually clear with auto poly which I wait 1/2 hour after my last coat of lacquer. I don't have time to watch paint dry...or grass grow. I shot nitro for the first time on a neck...looked good over the amber toner. I'm gonna spray some nitro on a poly Tele and relic the finish next.

With lacquer, I don't sand between coats as I shoot the next coat as soon as it flash dries. Since you have let the red dry a few days, you'll need to scuff as Southpa sez. Use a Scotchbrite pad or a 800 grit to evenly dull the red. Tack rag the dust off and don't touch the body with your hands, use gloves to handle and spray your clear. Spray several light coats, let each coat dry about 5 minutes than shoot the next. The final coat can be a little heavier and wet for max gloss...be careful, you don't wanna run it. Let it dry a few days.

Is it enamel or lacquer? Brand? The clear, if used should be the same brand.

If you have a metallic or kandy color, a clear would give it more depth and shine. Lots of automotive 'solids' like white black and red have no clear...just buffed out. 'Color sanding' is done to remove surface imperfections...especially 'orange peel'. It smooths the paint to glass just before buffing. I usually do the 1200,1500 and 2000 grit (wet sanding) before I hit it with the buffer. Make sure your paint is thick enough or it will cut through...especially edges.

Anything is possible. The Tele bridge won't work in the neck uless you do some fancy routing and very custom pickguard...the base plate on the bridge is an odd shape. We've done a lot of things with Teles here... Might give you some ideas, check out the profiles. Telemodders

...wooden shoes, you guys crack me up...Ace gets the nice guy award!

My lungs have gotten very sensitive from years of painting. They hurt bad, so even using thinner, I have to wear my mask. Been doing soldering, the smell does'nt bother me, my dad was a tech and always was soldering stuff...it gives me a warm, fuzzy feeling but I don't get any effects from the smoke. My kids run saying it's putrid, I like it, but don't inhale on purpose. I have a small fan running behind my back, does'nt do much but enough to push some smoke away. Everyone whos soldered know exactly what you're talkin' about... good luck, try a small fan.

When Seymour wound some PAF's and stuck 'em in a Tele for Jeff Beck (Blow by Blow) the slight string misalignment did'nt affect anything (to my ears anyway... ) When I made my TG, the JB bridge pup poles were off the string spacing...the Jazz neck lined up perfect. I think any differences would be minor and can be compensated by pup height or pole height...in fact, Seymour mentioned that the screws on the JB pup should be raised up so the bottom of the head lies flush with the top of the bobbin. I did this and the pups (I did the Jazz also) kick ass. I reread his article months later and I missed that tiny tidbit.

Yes. As tsl said, buffing begins after 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit. Each step will make the poly smoother and fine sanding scratches gone. A polishing compound with a high speed buffer will glass it out. Wax will 'seal' the finish...let the poly air dry at least a few weeks before applying any wax so all solvents escape and the finish will properly cure.

If your design is not too complex, maybe have an airbrush artist do the graphic work and spray a standard clearcoat. Someone here posted a Jimi Strat decal graphic that looked very complex going over the curves with a special base coat to help the decal conform to the shape...must be some hi-tech system. This was going to be a limited run but I can see the decal being used for the multiple copies being offered. If yours is a one-of-a kind, airbrush graphics may be the way to go.

Hey bro...I was gonna link this post to your question on the aged pickguard. Lots of info here on TFF post. Actually, the KIWI brand does'nt matter..I think. Any shoe polish (the waxy kind in the flat can...NOT the sponge tip bottles) should work. There must be some dye in there. I did scuff the Tele with 0000steel wool to dull the paint which really makes the brown absorb quickly. My Strat was cleaned with acohol, or was it lacquer thinner? to remove all wax. It has a poly finish so thinner won't hurt it. You have to clean the surface or the polish will just wipe off clean. Lots of instructions posted so I won't repeat. Good luck. Alex...you gotta have shoe polish there...you guys wear shoes right? hehe Let me know...or I'm sure something can be ordered online. Good luck.

hehe, my 2nd post tonight about this subject. You can try the Kiwi brown shoe polish to yellow/darken it. Read about it here... Kiwi brown... Before you try, maybe return the guitar for one that's perfect? It seems it really bugs you and being brand new, I think you have reason for an exchange. Either way, good luck.

I assume it's a waterslide decal? Those are kinda hit or miss with me. If you want to clearcoat it, you'll have to sand the new finish. An 800 grit wet sand should be fine for dulling the surface...try to get it evenly dull. Wipe clean, you don't want wet sanding grit under your decal. Apply the decal. Let it dry well, you want all the water gone. Here's where I hit or miss. Sometimes I let it dry an hour, sometimes overnight. I shoot a light mist of rattle can clear lacquer. This will sometimes help to 'melt' the clear film and any milkyness...sometimes. If you have issues with the film, and the lacquer does'nt help..it will look that way under the final poly. I figure it really depends on the specific type or manufacturer of the decal. I've used original NOS decals and repops as well as inkjet on decal paper...all with mixed results. I let the lacquer dry a few minutes and blast on the clear poly. Original Fender and Gibson decals seem to work best as the film dissappears under the clear. Good luck.

Wassup man. I'm a big fan of Kiwi brown shoe polish. Wipe the guard with alcohol to remove any wax etc. Rub the Kiwi on evenly, let it set and rub off. Do it a few times and it will get that smokers tan. Final rub well with a white cloth to make sure it's all off. It even works on poly. If it rubs off in spots, reapply and wipe off...eventually will 'stain' the plastic.